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Belt sqeaking on 2000 5.0

I'll try spinning with the belt removed but how should I use my new stethescope if that doesn't work? I'm confused where to put the probe without ripping my ears off! :eek:
 



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On the case of the components; alternator, power steering pump, pulley mounting bracket, etc.
DW
 






spta97 said:
I'll try spinning with the belt removed but how should I use my new stethescope if that doesn't work? I'm confused where to put the probe without ripping my ears off! :eek:

Any luck tracking down/fixing the squeak? Did you end up ripping your ears off? :eek:
 






I'm sorry, I couldn't hear you :D

I have not yet taken a crack at it but I did get the stethescope and both idler pullies. I'm hoping this weekend to do it at the same time I swap out my thermostat (my X is taking too long to heat up with the new one I put in from AutoZone).

I'd still like to hear some ideas on trouble shooting while the engine is running. Although I'm thinking I should just replace both and hopefully that will fix it (I'm sure it won't with my luck). The idlers were $40 so if mine are still good I would prefer not to use them. I think it is supposed to rain on Saturday in NY so that would be a great time to test it.
 






Here's an update on my cold-weather-only belt/pulley chirp:

1) replaced belt. no change.
2) replaced tensioner. no change.
3) removed idler pulley and greased center bolt. no change.

I want to actually REPLACE the idler pulley...but...

I bought a new idler pulley but it did not come with a new 15mm bolt. Why not re-use the old bolt, you ask? Because the OEM bolt/pulley has a toothed keeper washer on the back of it, which is not easy to remove.

Anyone else encounter this washer on an OEM idler pulley?
 






I have not taken mine apart yet but can't you just spin it off on the threads? I've seen these before and if the fit is tight I remove it as if it were a nut - rotate it through the threads until it comes off.

Also, I would imagine that you should put one on with the new pulley.
 






I would try to spin it off like a nut, but it's a *toothed* washer and it digs into the bolt. Almost like it's not designed to be removable.

I could dremel the lock washer off there, but it's close...I would have to be careful.
And then I couldn't re-use it.
 






How about bending the teeth outward? I've run into these things before and I ended up pretty much destroying it. So does it sit infront of the pulley or behind it? I'm thinking you could bend it until it breaks or use tin snips. I guess you could use a regular lock washer in it's place. The dremmel has a way of getting away from you with small items like that.

Please post back your results (and a picture if possible) as I'm gonna be tackling this on Saturday.

Thanks..
 






I've replaced a pulley with a captive bolt like that. I reused the bolt after prying off the locking washer. Just don't hurt youself, but rip it off of there. Good luck,
DonW
 






I snipped the washer with tinsnips and reused the bolt
 






BuffaloXplorer said:
I snipped the washer with tinsnips and reused the bolt

Without the washer?
 






I think that the head of the bolt was big enough.
DW
 






CDW6212R said:
I think that the head of the bolt was big enough.
DW

Big enough for what? :confused:
If I can get away with not using this washer, I will. It sits behind the pulley..such that when you remove the bolt, the pulley comes with it. The bolt and pulley are attached because the washer won't let them come apart.
 






Oh yes, it is thin enough that it won't move the new pulley inward too much. This idler pulley is smooth, yes? Unless you are dealing with somethiing much different, it's just a matter of removing the bolt, and installing the new pulley. LOL,
DonW
 






CDW6212R said:
Oh yes, it is thin enough that it won't move the new pulley inward too much. This idler pulley is smooth, yes? Unless you are dealing with somethiing much different, it's just a matter of removing the bolt, and installing the new pulley. LOL,
DonW

If it were only that simple, LOL, I would have it done by now.

An OEM idler pulley and 15mm bolt on a 94 truck are ONE UNIT, and a toothed washer prevents them from being separated...unless one chooses to destroy the toothed washer.
 






Rhett, look above, there are two of us here that have done just that. The one that I am referring to was on my 93 Limited. I think that we are talking about the same thing. You need the old bolt to mount the new idler pulley.
Don
 






So I guess this means you don't need the washer? Also, are you guys on a V6 or V8?
 






My 93 is also the V6 OHV.
DW
 






Hmmm...I wonder if the V8 is the same thing. I'll find out tomorrow as I'm putting on my mechanics hat and having at it. I swear, I'll be a master mechanic by the time I'm done with this damn truck!
 



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I've replaced most of the idler pulleys on all of the vehicles that I have owned. The pulleys simply don't have a lifespan as long as the rest of the engine.

All of the bearings on the front of an engine should be considered suspect if they are over about 75,000 miles.
Regards,
Don W
 






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