Best type of lift

[Gadget X]

Been doing a lot of thought on finally lifting the ex, and I'm trying to do my research beforehand! Just wondering what the general consensus is. Planning on doing the SOA in the rear, but I'm not sure if I should do the drop brackets, cut and turned beams, or SAS in the front. Also, what is involved in a cut and turn? Keeping in mind that this will still be my DD, so the handling needs to be good! Just wanted to get some more input before I make a decision on it. Thanks!

 

[jd4242]

Cheapest, strongest will be cut and turn.cant really compare a sas to either of the other two options, if you have time and money then obviously a sas is best.

 

[Gadget X]

Will the cut and turn have as much travel as the drop brackets, or will there be a lot more negative camber as the wheel travels upwards? Haven't really been able to find the answers I am looking for with the search. Thanks!

 

[Maniak]

The Idea about Cut and Turned is that the Camber is at already at 0 when at ride height, just like it will be with the drop brackets..

Now, as the suspension cycles you will get the same change in Camber if you were comparing drop brackets to cut/turned.

The advantage of Cut/turned of having more ground clearance where the pivots are is also a disadvantage. The Beam is already at an angle so if you shock is mounted in the stock position the can of the shock will hit the RA earlier. If you move the shock or change the mount this won't be an issue. In general, C&T will be stronger as you don't have the same leverage on the frame since the pivot point for the beams is less.

To really get the extra travel though you need to so something with the Radius arms. The Arc those arms travel really limit the suspension travel. If you extend the the RAs the arc at the mount will be less for the same amount of wheel travel.

Next, your limit will be the shock length. If you do the f-250 shock mount mod you can run much longer shocks..

I've run Drop brackets (Duff) and am currently running C&T beams. I can tell I have C&T beams as when I go through some rough road behind the house @ speed (40mph or so) I can feel the truck moving differently (more side push) than it had when I ran the Duff drop brackets without the Cut/turned beams. I did change the front springs at the same time but I don't think the springs are giving me the side loading/push feeling.. Some of that feel may be some extra bump steer that I picked up since the new springs are 1.5" longer (lift wise) than the old setup but it doesn't exactly feel like bump steer.

I do like having the C&T beams though.. The extra ground clearance is nice.. It isn't much but I'm still only running 33" tires so every little bit helps.

Currently my droop is limited by the spring and shock body hitting the RA.. My up travel is limited by the shock/body interference.. It is time to install bump stops since I have bottomed out the shocks a few times. I haven't been running them for years since the body was my limiting factor (the inner fender that is above the tire).

ok, enough rambling.. If you still have questions.. Fire away.. There are a few of us that have run both types of lift (brackets and c&t).

~Mark

 

[Tbars4]

..What are your driving/offroad plans and what is your budget?

....You can go from cheap to no expense spared...

.. but knowing if you want to bomb thru a desert, rock climb, hit dirt trails or just cruise around with a lifted truck would be the determining factors of what the best type of lift for you would be..

 

[Gadget X]

As far as my driving plans go, it'll be mostly a daily driver, but I want the option of being able to do at least some light offroading/rock climbing if I'm afforded the opportunity! I don't get the chance often, but it'll be nice to have the option! Also, I'm only planning on running 32s or 33s on it! Thanks for all the info!

 

[4x4junkie]

Sounds like yours is a good candidate for a bracket lift to me.

C&T lifts are great for high-speed running/jumping, mainly due to the added clearance at the pivots like Maniak mentions (helps avoid striking rocks or anything imbedded in the road when landing or blasting through whoop-de-doos)

Drop brackets tend to offer better onroad handling and for off-camber trails/rocks (provided your steering corrections are done properly), but you do want to avoid the cheaper bracket lifts as they're known to be weak.

SAS, IMO gets hyped up way too much, though it does have an advantage in that it's often easier for some to wrap their head around how it works vs. with the TTB, and doesn't require realignment quite as often if you make modifications to the suspension (if the ride height is changed for example). Capability-wise and strengthwise though (excepting for if you use a 1-ton axle) I think it's close to a wash with the TTB (infact the TTB does far better as speeds go up due to it's smoother ride / lower unsprung weight).

For your uses I would suggest maybe one of Skyjacker's or James Duff's bracket kits (if you go with Skyjacker, look under Ranger lifts of the same year as yours). Just be sure to also get Skyjacker's pt# FA600 drop pitman arm with it as well, as the one the kit comes with won't drop the steering linkage down as far as it needs to go (same goes for the Duff 5.5" kit as well).


Hope that helps

 

[Gadget X]

Would I be looking at a 92 ranger lift? I have a 94 ex, but I thought that 92 was the last year for the ttb in the ranger? Thanks for the info!

 

[4x4junkie]

'97 would actually be the last TTB Ranger year (for Explorers it was '94).

 

[Gadget X]

Oh, ok. Thanks!