Big 3 ?

[97sprt4x4]

I've been home from school for spring break, and i've been playing with my system, trying to figure out what to run and everything, and i've noticed that my volt gauge in the dash, bobs when the base hits, pretty bad. So i hooked a voltmeter, and it sits at about 13 when it's not hitting and will drop to about 10 when it does. i'm guessing this is not good. However, i've been searching on here and discovered the big three upgrade. and was wondering if 1 this would solve the problem, and if so about how much wire would i have to buy to do this upgrade sucessfully?

Thanks all

Justin

 

[Buffalosports]

Not really sure what this upgrade is but you might want to look into a capicator.

 

[aldive]

The big 3 wires might not completely solve your problem, but it will help.

 

[Infinity08]

Not really sure what this upgrade is but you might want to look into a capicator.

No, no, and no. A capacitor would make things worse in this situation

First up, hit up Autozone or Pep Boys and get your battery and alternator checked. Upgrade the wire from battery to ground (or add an additional wire, your choice), and the motor to frame ground. I wouldn't worry about any positive wires just yet. People jump the gun on those when it doesn't help yet.

 

[97sprt4x4]

What gauge would you suggest I use for the ground and how much do you think I would need?
if I get a response I will try to stop in at lowes or homE depot and pick everything up
Thanks
Justin

 

[aldive]

By all means do all 3 of the wires.

I used 4 gauge ( many use larger wire ).

Take a look at http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152430&highlight=alternator+wiring

 

[Infinity08]

The wire from alternator to battery isn't going to change anything unless you get a larger alternator OR the current wire is cracking/corroding. If it is large enough to carry the alt's current, there will be no additional current by putting larger wire. Now, i you do it for looks (I have MANY times), then go with 1/0 Kicker Hyperflex or Knukonceptz Flex. Have fun with those ring terminals

 

[aznboi3644]

The wire from alternator to battery isn't going to change anything unless you get a larger alternator OR the current wire is cracking/corroding. If it is large enough to carry the alt's current, there will be no additional current by putting larger wire. Now, i you do it for looks (I have MANY times), then go with 1/0 Kicker Hyperflex or Knukonceptz Flex. Have fun with those ring terminals

Highly disagree, Sir.

The factory alternator to battery wire is sufficient for the FACTORY electronics. Not an additional load from stereo equipment and other electronics.

Adding another 4 gauge or bigger wire will increase the efficiency. It is not for looks. Doesn't matter if the alternator is a high output or a factory alternator. Upgrading the big three helps.

While the engine is running the power comes from the alternator. There is no point in having 0 gauge power and ground wires if the alternator wire is still the factory 8 gauge. It is a bottleneck in the power flow.

 

[Infinity08]

But, all your electronics draw from the battery, which is the buffer between the alternator and the stereo. If the wire going to the battery from the alternator already carries the full capacity of the alternator, upgrading it will only lighten your pocketbook.
This is also why you can drain your battery even while driving if you're jamming hard (getting stuck 130 miles from home sucks, BTW). You draw the reserves out faster than the alternator is capable of restoring them. I know, I know, you can unhook the battery once the car is running, and the alternator will run it, but crank your stereo while doing that and see what happens (pray you aren't running Mojo or old HCCA amps). The voltage will immediately drop and likely kill the car, even though the alternator is putting out its full potential.

 

[aznboi3644]

as long as the voltage is above the resting battery voltage the power is not pulled from the battery.

Also if your system drains the battery while the engine is running and your driving around than you have a serious problem. While the engine is on the power comes from the alternator...not the battery. The only time the power comes from the battery is when the voltage drops to battery level or below. But while driving that should rarely happen if the big three is upgraded unless you have 2000+ watts.

I don't care what you say upgrading the alternator wire works. Easy example. My dads Silverado. Factory alternator wire is like 8 or 10 gauge. I upgraded that, and nothing else, to 4 gauge. Before he had voltage drops just from the blower on full. How he can have the head lights on, blower on full, and rolling the windows down with voltage drops from 14.5 volts to barely below 14 volts. Before it was dropping down to battery level around 12.7 volts.

 

[aldive]

I don't care what you say upgrading the alternator wire works.

I too will vouch for it working.