Bleed Anti lock Sys. on 1994

[Islandguy]

Hi. Changed rear brake line, and lost all the breake fluid. When finished. Blead breakes, but pedal still soft. Any way I can bleed the sys at home?

Cheers,
Islandguy

 

[Tony H]

Crack bleeder loose, put small hose on bleeder and down into small jar that has Brake fluid in it. With hose down in teh fluid, pump brakes about 7 times , get out, tighten bleeder. Fill reservoir then move onto the other rear wheel cylinder. The hose down in the fluid acts like a Check valve... no air getting back into the system.

Next time, wedge the Brake Pedal down BEFORE taking the brake line off. it will keep the fluid in the Master.

 

[nitro71]

You musta left it sit for a few days! I just did both rear cylinders and didn't loose to much in the lines. I wouldn't worry about bleeding the ABS system. I swapped out my HCU and did a normal bleed. All seems well so far.

 

[YBCold]

Is it this thing? i think its leaking brake fluid and it pools around the fuel filter. is it that hard to replace?

 

[YBCold]

 

[nitro71]

If it's the RABS that's leaking shouldn't be that hard to replace. Undo the bolts and the brake line fittings to it. Disconnect the electrical. Install replacement. Bleed all the brakes.

 

[YBCold]

Thanks for the reply i will attempt this

 

[ForeverFixin]

Try to not press the brake pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding the brakes (very easy to do with no back pressure). Under normal use the brake pedal usually only travels up and down the first half of its potential full range, as a result the bottom half or so of the bore in the master is usually pitted from rust and scale from not ever being swept clean by the seals on the shaft. If you depress the pedal fully to the bottom and back repeatedly when bleeding you risk the chance of damaging the seals and causing the mc to fail. Took me a while to figure it out, but it accounts for all the masters that have failed on various vehicles soon after having the brake linings replaced.

 

[dickeypjeep]

Try to not press the brake pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding the brakes (very easy to do with no back pressure). Under normal use the brake pedal usually only travels up and down the first half of its potential full range, as a result the bottom half or so of the bore in the master is usually pitted from rust and scale from not ever being swept clean by the seals on the shaft. If you depress the pedal fully to the bottom and back repeatedly when bleeding you risk the chance of damaging the seals and causing the mc to fail. Took me a while to figure it out, but it accounts for all the masters that have failed on various vehicles soon after having the brake linings replaced.

Wow, that's great information. I didn't even think about that on my brake swap.

 

[Tim murray]

Hi. Changed rear brake line, and lost all the breake fluid. When finished. Blead breakes, but pedal still soft. Any way I can bleed the sys at home?

Cheers,
Islandguy

 

[ChildIdenticant]

@Tim murray

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