Bleeding the brakes, and a few other misc. questions...

[javey]

On the 4.0 SOHC v6, 1998, how do you bleed the brakes? I mean I know how, but I read in the Haynes manual (which wasn't helpful at all, because it didn't say if I need to or not on my particular model) that on some models you have to plug in some electronic device before bleeding the brakes, so that air doesn't get into your lines. Also, what additive do I put into my differential with the 75w-90? It's the traction lock type. If I think of anything else, I'll ask and thanks in advance!

Javey

 

[BrooklynBay]

The electronic tool cycles the ABS solenoid block. You could do this with some scan tools too.

 

[javey]

So in short, I do need this tool? Better take it off to the stealership then...

 

[budwich]

do your brakes have air in them right now??? If you are doing this as part of a pad / caliper replacement, then you can do "normal" bleeding and should be fine... provided that you don't haphazardly introduce air during your bleeding operations (ie. run out of fluid). But if you have air in your system now, it is likely that you need to give the ABS system "proper attention".

 

[javey]

Well the ABS light has been on for a while too, and I planned to do this to see if it would turn out finally. But also, the speedometer has been dropping to 0 mph sometimes, and there are metal shavings in my differential, so I am going to change the fluid out and see if that stops this too. What is that stuff I add in there? The 4 oz of friction modifier or whatever?

 

[daffy]

If you have a limited slip rear end, I think you are supposed to be using 75-140w with the friction modifier (just ask at any auto parts store, they'll have it.)

As for the shavings, are we talking a handful, or maybe just a teaspoon?

A teaspoon of shavings is probably nothing, a handful would spell part replacement to me.

As for the ABS problem, make sure it's full of fluid, then use an ohm meter to test the 3 sensors for opens/shorts (it's not an exact science, but an open or dead short usually means bad sensor). From what I've read (and my experience) the rear sensor is the most problematic, it's mounted to the top of the rear diff, near the front, just follow the only wire going to the diff.

 

[javey]

Thanks for the re:, however I already changed out the rear ABS sensor...I took it out again to check wtf was going on and there was quite a bit of metal shavings on it...where do I get that friction modifier? I work at an auto parts store, and we don't sell it. Maybe it's stealership only? I hope replacing the fluid will fix things up, but I'll have a look at it once I drain it, to see just HOW much metal is in there, and decide from there what to do.

 

[daffy]

Hmm, got mine at Autozone, it was on the shelf right next to the 75w140.

Don't have the bottle anymore, and a search of their site lists nothing, sorry I can't be of more help, but if I get to a 'zone or such, I'll get a brand + part number.

 

[Glacier991]

I can loan you the tool. You pay shipping, RT.