blower only works on hi......

[jortor]

My blower control knob, it only blows when I put it on high, no low no medium, just high. need to fix this, any sugestions?


'94 explorer xlt:exporange

 

[chickenviii]

blower motor resistor 99% of the time if only high works, because it by-passes the resistor

 

[Fordmandan87]

blower motor resister located next to the blower motor is your problem will cost around $20

 

[jortor]

thanks for the info.

 

[kslhol]

Not sure if this is true or not, but I have been told the longer you go with a bad resistor, the more likely you will fry out your blower motor as well. But like I said, not sure if this is true.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The resistor only varies the amount of voltage going to the blower to change the speed, so the blower is only working on a closed circuit without any variable speed control.

 

[Brutus93]

Check connection to blower resistor

The blower motor resistor is actually located directly beside the blower motor, and has a rectangular connector attached to it, with I believe 6 wires going into it. It is held on by 2 screws which are easily removeable. While the resistor is what gives you variable speed, these units don't tend to fail, and if you actually look at the internals, you will see why. They are built tough, out of discrete components, and if it is broken, you will physically see it.

Typically, what will go wrong with this arrangement is that the connector to the blower motor resistor will start corroding internally, and you won't know there is a problem until it stops working. At that point, you try to unplug the connector, and it doesn't want to let go. This is because the corroded connections have practically 'welded' themselves to the resistor unit. This happened to my first explorer, as well as my F-150 (they both use the same part).

My best advice is that if the connector won't come off, don't destroy the resistor trying to unplug it. A lack of patience will cause that to happen. If they can't be separated, dray a diagram of which wires go where, and snip them off. Remove the resistor, and break apart the connector around it. If you happen to have access to a good connector (from a parts-car) then you can solder it on with some shrink-tube and you are all good. If not, you can use appropriately sized female spade connectors, and just be sure to put the proper wires back to the proper pins. Either way you go with the fix, be sure to apply dielectric grease to the terminals. It will prevent moisture from corroding it again.

I hope this was of help.

Brutus93

 

[BrooklynBay]

This thread is # 55 in my list of useful threads: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t321671.html

 

[astaroth]

Not sure if this is true or not, but I have been told the longer you go with a bad resistor, the more likely you will fry out your blower motor as well. But like I said, not sure if this is true.

Old thread, but i think i just fried my blower motor. Right now waiting for parts.

 

[hazmat456]

the blower motor resisters are a known problem on the f-150 don't know if it is the same one on the x but it sees alot of heat cycles thats why it is in the airstream, so it is not suprising that they fail.

 

[fairlane]

Hi, first check to see if current is reaching the blower motor. If thats good. You need to check the connector (or plug) that attahes to the resistor. If one of the terminals appears burnt, that can cause the same issue. My 1999 Ford Crown Victoria had the same problem, that was the cause. Had to switch 2 of the spade terminals so the wires would match the car's wiring harness. Easy task. I'm in North Carolina.