body lift with manual tranny? also new member to board

[full foot notch]

alright, new member here , owner of 2 chevy's (95 4x4 tahoe and 77 c10 with 454)

got a 92 2dr explorer as a 21st birthday gift/off road/daily driver

what my vehicle is: 1992 2dr explorer sport, 4.0 v6, manual tranny, pushbutton transfer case but want to switch to manual transfer case, it is a stock suspension sitting on 31 inch tires, 8.8 rear, pretty much bought it from the original owner and has pretty much replaced and converted everything on the vehicle(IE parts that are succeptable to wear and tear and converted the A/C , picked it up for $2400, and even has a manual turn-open sunroof which i havent really seen on those years

and yes i have used the search function to look this up and went thru the 40 pages that returned as a result

but my main question is, is it possible to install a body lift on a manual tranny 2dr explorer, yes i know that there are body lift kits for the explorer/ranger, but mine was more of concern of the shift linkage, because i dont know if it is a hydraulic or mechanical linkage of clutch engagement for the pedal, and clearance of the shifter after the body lift

all of the posts i have read talk about the automatic tranny and lifting them, because my main plan is to lift this explorer and be able to fit either 35s or 38s, and figure either a 2 or 3 inch lift would help get towards that goal

 

[Doug]

First off welcome to the board. You have a couple of options in regards to the transmission. First of the hydralic line for the clutch isnt an issue there is enough play in it. As far as the shifter you can do 2 things, you can either leave it like it is and have the shifter effectively be 3" shorter or you can get a shifter expensioin from performance accessories. Personally I never bothered with the shifter extension, i left it as it was. To run 35 or 38s you're definantly going to have to do some fender trimming and run atleast a 6" suspension lift with a 3" body lift. I have seen it done but it does require alot of cutting of the front fenders. Not to mention with 38s you'll be eating up front suspension parts like candy.

 

[hit_that]

I have the exact same model cept mine's a 91 and I put a 3in. body lift on about 3 weeks ago and had no problems with anything. (knock on wood)

 

[full foot notch]

yeah, i was going to do a 6 inch suspension and 3 inch body on my tahoe, but was pricing it out and was going to get it done, but when the grand total came out to about $4500 just for that basic stuff, i decided to get the ford to lift it

yeah, i know with some 35s or 38s, its gonna need some trimming, most likely gonna run the fiberglass fenders

it was just my main concern with the body lift about the clutch linkage, becuase i did not know if it was a mechanincal or hydraulic setup, but now that i know that it is possible, im gonna go get the bodylift

and most likely it was going to be a superlift/skyjacker setup for the 5-6 lift and the body lift, or i was going to go with the SAS for reliability, but this 2dr is jsut going ot be mostly street with the capability for huricane season, flooded roads during the rain season, and pulling people out at teh mudhole, so wear and tear is going to be minimal, its just mostly clearance that im going for, body and suspension

and as for the shifter, i had somewhat of a concern about not knowing if after lifting it, IE that i would need to trim around the shifter because theoretically in my mind the shifter could hit its surrounding metal and not allow it to go fully into all the gears

 

[Doug]

You won't have to trim the hole in the floor has more than adaquate room for the shifter to move. You might have to get creative with the shift boot though. Since the shifter is sitting 3 inches lower you may have to get a new boot but I'm not really sure. I've got a manual t-case in my 97 as well as the manual trans and i havent gotten around to figuring out the best way to seal the gaping hole in my floor.

 

[full foot notch]

now if i can only figure out how to reduce the slop in the shifter, i remember when i had my 89 toyota Xcab (heh, notice a pattern of 4x4's) , it was a trick that the shifter pivot bushings were replaced, due to the amount of wear they went thru, it was a night and day difference of the amount of play/slop in the shifter

if someone has an exploded view of the shifter assembly, i could prolly figure something out, cause theres gotta be a reason for the extreme amount of freeplay that is in the shifter, its its annoying when driving