Body roll swaying death wobble!

[Robdabest2015]

Hey guys got a 99 mer mountaineer and I've noticed at high speeds around 75-90 mph I get a bad wobble, especially if I hit a bump my rear end comes out and wants to break loose. I've installed new rear shocks on this but have noticed there was a 3rd shock in the rear? Is this to stabilize it? Has anyone had this problem?

Thanks

 

[lobo411]

It's a big heavy truck with a slow, lunky suspension, so it's not going to handle like a race car at 90 mph.

I never changed my horizontal shock but I probably should. One thing I did do early in the game that dramatically reduced body roll was to replace the fake sway bars with real ones. The OEM bars are hollow tubes that really can't transfer enough energy to stabilize anything. You can buy solid swaybars on the aftermarket that are night and day better, for both the front and the rear.

 

[chefduane]

The OEM rear sway bar is a hollow tube? Really? When I did my rear end links and bushings that sucker sure felt like a solid bar to me. Wouldn't want to drop that thing on my head!!

 

[swshawaii]

Ditto chefduane. Although the rear sway bar is very undersized at 19mm, I believe they're solid. I know for a fact
the OEM rear end links are hollow. Stock front sway bars on 1997 and earlier are large diameter but hollow. Agree
with lobo411 though, upgrading the rear stock sway bar is probably the best safety and handling mod that can be
done on a street driven vehicle after tires and shocks. Three choices. Explorer Express X-Spec, Addco 633, or Hellwig 7648. All pricey, but I've yet to read a single regret from those who have done this upgrade.

 

[Mike65]

Hollow sway bar? NEVER heard of it, AFAIK ALL the sway bars are solid.

 

[lobo411]

Ditto chefduane. Although the rear sway bar is very undersized at 19mm, I believe they're solid. I know for a fact
the OEM rear end links are hollow. Stock front sway bars on 1997 and earlier are large diameter but hollow. Agree
with lobo411 though, upgrading the rear stock sway bar is probably the best safety and handling mod that can be
done on a street driven vehicle after tires and shocks. Three choices. Explorer Express X-Spec, Addco 633, or Hellwig 7648. All pricey, but I've yet to read a single regret from those who have done this upgrade.

Good point...IIRC, once I found out about the hollow front sway bar I ordered a kit that came with upgraded front and rear bars. I confirmed the hollow front, but didn't pay too much attention to the stock rear bar (or forgot about it) since it wasn't relevant (I was replacing it anyway, since I had the upgraded bar).

 

[Flash]

Assuming everything else is correct; what about tyre pressures?
I run 38psi on the street.

Have a look at your leaf spring hanger bushes too.

Final word: Front bar is hollow, rear bar is solid.

 

[bobflood]

Hey guys got a 99 mer mountaineer and I've noticed at high speeds around 75-90 mph I get a bad wobble, especially if I hit a bump my rear end comes out and wants to break loose. I've installed new rear shocks on this but have noticed there was a 3rd shock in the rear? Is this to stabilize it? Has anyone had this problem?

Thanks

Definitely replace the "3rd shock" - easier/cheaper than replacing sway bars and should help. When I did it in 2010 used a Monroe SC2958 - about $30 on Amazon. If it doesn't do the job you want, you can always go on to the sway bars. Good luck.

 

[toypaseo]

Assuming everything else is correct; what about tyre pressures?
I run 38psi on the street.

This could be an issue. My tires were at ~35PSI, and I filled them up to 40PSI. Now I have similar symptoms. Never had the symptoms before, even at that tire pressure. I am now planning on replacing the rear axle damper, and maybe the shocks.

 

[Robdabest2015]

This could be an issue. My tires were at ~35PSI, and I filled them up to 40PSI. Now I have similar symptoms. Never had the symptoms before, even at that tire pressure. I am now planning on replacing the rear axle damper, and maybe the shocks.

So I would like to ad to that. I found out I do have a 5th shock back there Part number SC2958. Installed and no body roll anymore.

 

[toypaseo]

I have been digging for prices online for the axle damper. OEM and Bilstein seem to be the highest. Monroe and KYB seem around the same price range. I'll pry opt for the KYB since it's $26.39 total delivered from AutoAnything using coupon code CAEA3.

but contemplating adding a set of KYB Gas-A-Just to bring my total to $160.76 delivered...

 

[Robdabest2015]

Okay so I attempted to take off the stabilizer shock and the bolt broke does anyone know if the nut on it is welded and stationery and is drilling it out the only option at this point

 

[swshawaii]

Why were you removing it? Experiment? See post #16+ linked below.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238461

 

[SoNic67]

Mine was welded. Always use lots and lots of penetrating oil... like PB Blaster.

 

[aaron81006]

Death Wobble fix

I've had the Death Wobble on my '93 for a few years. I wouldn't believe all the posts that is was the bushings. I looked at everything else including tire pressure. (93's don't have the stabilizer shock).

Finally after years of freaking my friends and my wife out, I decided to try the bushings. I spend all day Saturday changing all of the bushings in the Energy Suspension kit. Putting the new bushings in is a piece of cake. Getting the old ones out is another story. A real PITA.

The change is amazing. It really was the bushings. No more Death Wobble.

Sometimes, I am just to stubborn for my own good.

 

[Accarguy]

I've had the Death Wobble on my '93 for a few years. I wouldn't believe all the posts that is was the bushings. I looked at everything else including tire pressure. (93's don't have the stabilizer shock).

Finally after years of freaking my friends and my wife out, I decided to try the bushings. I spend all day Saturday changing all of the bushings in the Energy Suspension kit. Putting the new bushings in is a piece of cake. Getting the old ones out is another story. A real PITA.

The change is amazing. It really was the bushings. No more Death Wobble.

Sometimes, I am just to stubborn for my own good.

Which bushings are you talking about?


And correct me if I am wrong but the 98 and newer all should have completely solid sway bars.

 

[chefduane]

I did my front and rear sway bar bushings with the Energy Suspension bushings (as recommended by sws). Best mod I ever did as for handling. Much less sway, roll in turns, and plunge when braking. And yes, both front and rear sway bars are solid on my '98 4x. I also did front/rear end link kits with ES bushings and Moog end links. Highly recommended.

 

[swshawaii]

Thanks Chef. IMO, the combined Moog K7275 and ES 9.8103 FRONT end links is the most underused and cheapest
safety and handling mods one can do.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2791778&postcount=10

Also agree upgrading the stock 19mm rear sway bar and end link bushings with the ES 4.5153 polyurethane kit is also
a very worthwhile and inexpensive upgrade.
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/4.5153

 

[aaron81006]

Which bushings are you talking about?


And correct me if I am wrong but the 98 and newer all should have completely solid sway bars.

Hi Accarguy. The Energy Suspensions kit for my '93 included 6 bushings for the sway bar / sway bar links (front and back), one per side for the TTB (not on your 98), one bushing per side for the radius arms (ditto) and 2 per side for the rear leaf springs. The

IFAIK, all sway bars are solid. Can't get much torque out of a tube.

 

[swshawaii]

IFAIK, all sway bars are solid. Can't get much torque out of a tube.

Great advice Aaron, however several manufacturers including Hellwig and Whiteline offer hollow sway bars.
http://www.hellwigproducts.com/products/street-performance-product-line/street-performance/

Stock 1995-97 FRONT sway bars are hollow.
This was also quoted by Explorer Express who sold the discontinued X-Spec sway bars.

11. What is the difference between Solid and Tubular anti-sway bars?

If you compare two bars of the same diameter, one solid and the other tubular, the solid bar will always be stiffer by typically 20%-30%. The advantages of a solid anti-sway bar are that it is less expensive and stiffer than a tubular bar. Tubular bars can be designed to offer the same output as a solid bar but the diameter will be greater. Ultimately this leads to a weight savings of approximately 40% but it is more expensive.

http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/tech/faq/