Both Rear Brakes Dragging Intermittently

[ArcticGabe]

Ok, this is the second time this happened now. Nobody I talk to has answers.

Yesterday, driving on 35 - 45 MPH roads after about 20 miles I noticed the vehicle labored a bit when pulling away from a stop, then I noticed the distinct smell of burning brakes at next stop. I pulled over, and BOTH rear brakes were smoking and fronts were both normally warm. Let it sit for a couple hours, then it was fine. Drove it 10 miles to the repair shop and it had no problem.

Of course, the mechanics can't find a problem. They even tried to induce it by riding the brakes to get them hot, but it will not repeat. The caliper slides easily on the pins. If only one side or the other did it, a caliper or a brake line would be reasonable, but BOTH sides doing it at once then going way doesn't make sense.

The first time it happened (about a month ago) it happened immediately after I changed the rear pads & rotors. Took it to a different shop and it would not repeat after cooling off. They diagnosed the problem as the FRONT calipers were not working and the rears were doing all the work. They replaced the front calipers, pads, and rotors (for $870!) and all was fine until yesterday, about 500 miles between events.

All suggestions welcome!

 

[4mer paddler]

Ok, this is the second time this happened now. Nobody I talk to has answers.

Yesterday, driving on 35 - 45 MPH roads after about 20 miles I noticed the vehicle labored a bit when pulling away from a stop, then I noticed the distinct smell of burning brakes at next stop. I pulled over, and BOTH rear brakes were smoking and fronts were both normally warm. Let it sit for a couple hours, then it was fine. Drove it 10 miles to the repair shop and it had no problem.

Of course, the mechanics can't find a problem. They even tried to induce it by riding the brakes to get them hot, but it will not repeat. The caliper slides easily on the pins. If only one side or the other did it, a caliper or a brake line would be reasonable, but BOTH sides doing it at once then going way doesn't make sense.

The first time it happened (about a month ago) it happened immediately after I changed the rear pads & rotors. Took it to a different shop and it would not repeat after cooling off. They diagnosed the problem as the FRONT calipers were not working and the rears were doing all the work. They replaced the front calipers, pads, and rotors (for $870!) and all was fine until yesterday, about 500 miles between events.

All suggestions welcome!

Hey, similar problem with my 2006 Eddie Bauer 4.6L V8.
I've just joined this forum because the same thing happened to me a couple days ago. About two weeks ago I lost the left front bearing and had a new unit installed. Everything was fine afterward. Two days ago I drove about 2.5 km from home and noticed the SUV starting to slow down by itself. It got progressively slower even though I increased pressure on the gas pedal. Finally I had the accelerator floored trying to limp to the side of the road. By the time I stopped, all four wheels were smoking. Stepping on the brake pedal was like stepping on a brick, not able to depress it at all. Shut everything down and got out. The rear brake lights stayed on for over an hour while the vehicle was towed to the dealer, even though all lights were off and keys were removed. None of the dash warning lights came on.
The dealer has had it since then, drove it around every day and couldn't get it to repeat the situation. His best guess was either the master cylinder or the ABS pump, maybe.
I'm not ready to shell out for these items on a guess. Drove it home today, no problems. Guess I'll check out the GM forums.
Never had a problem of any kind with my 1998 Explorer that I retired at 400,000+ km. Kind of miss it.
Will keep watching for a solution.

 

[Rob Millar]

Ok, this is the second time this happened now. Nobody I talk to has answers.

Yesterday, driving on 35 - 45 MPH roads after about 20 miles I noticed the vehicle labored a bit when pulling away from a stop, then I noticed the distinct smell of burning brakes at next stop. I pulled over, and BOTH rear brakes were smoking and fronts were both normally warm. Let it sit for a couple hours, then it was fine. Drove it 10 miles to the repair shop and it had no problem.

Of course, the mechanics can't find a problem. They even tried to induce it by riding the brakes to get them hot, but it will not repeat. The caliper slides easily on the pins. If only one side or the other did it, a caliper or a brake line would be reasonable, but BOTH sides doing it at once then going way doesn't make sense.

The first time it happened (about a month ago) it happened immediately after I changed the rear pads & rotors. Took it to a different shop and it would not repeat after cooling off. They diagnosed the problem as the FRONT calipers were not working and the rears were doing all the work. They replaced the front calipers, pads, and rotors (for $870!) and all was fine until yesterday, about 500 miles between events.

All suggestions welcome!

Got exactly the same problem that you describe after changing the rear brake pads. Did you manage to fix it? Any advice would be fantastic thank you

 

[LMHmedchem]

First, I would tell you not to go back to the shop that charged you $850 for rear brakes. Even if they used new (not re-manufactured) calipers and high quality pads and rotors, that job should have cost $300-$350. If the calipers were re-manufactured, $250-$300. Even if they did both the front and rear I wouldn't expect it to cost more than $700-$750 with new calipers. If they are overcharging by that much it is also likely that they are not using high quality parts either. Always ask exactly what part they are using, better yet, use a garage that lets you bring your own parts. If you live somewhere very remote where parts are expensive then the cost may be reasonable but even around here where mechanics make $150/hour that would be way too much.

It does sound like it could be an issue with the ABS. If the problem was with the master cylinder I would sort of expect it to affect both the front and rear.

Can you hook up to the data port and see if there are any error codes? Also, carefully remove the ABS sensor cable from both rear hubs and see if there are any metal shavings stuck to the inside of the sensor or down in the hole the sensor came out of.

LMHmedchem

 

[TechGuru]

Unplug the ABS fuse and see if it still happens.

 

[Rob Millar]

Got exactly the same problem that you describe after changing the rear brake pads. Did you manage to fix it? Any advice would be fantastic thank you

Had a look and we think it's the pistons sticking in the calipers when they get hot. Mechanic said he had the same problem with his F350. Got new calipers on order