Bought a 2000 Explorer 2 days ago

[Qdup1]

Hi all, I am new to this Explorer forum and having owned 5 off road Toyotas in the past and present, I thought I would try something different. I bought a fairly low miles 2000 Explorer limited. I found out something is draining the battery fast. Like a short or something? I have no clue where to start looking for the culprit and am wondering if anyone has had any issues like mine?
Also, it came with a new in the box Performance Accessories 3" lift kit and am wondering where are all the lift points located and can someone that has never before installed a BL kit be in over their heads. It has 14 spacers included. I suppose the first thing to do is take the seats out and the trim around the carpet in order to get at the body to frame bolts.
At any rate, I wanted a project and it looks like I have one now. Lol.
Thanks for any help in these matters.

 

[Metalface]

There's a few threads on the lift kit (you should have a kit that's "for Ford Ranger 1998-2000-something" since nobody ever explicitly made a kit for the Explorer.)

A reply from SplashMan from 2001:

95+ Body Lift info...
Some of you Explorer owners may already know that bodylifts for 95-01 Explorers are currently unavailable. But wait! All is not lost! Performance Accessories makes a series of 3" bodylifts for the 95-01 Rangers. The Ranger is identical to the Explorer from the cab forward so it appears that these kits will work on Explorers. Well, they do and we have been very successful with installations. Performance Accessories produces two kits, one for 95-97's and one for 98-01's. The main difference with these kits is the steering extension and bumper brackets. The 98-01 kit will work on ALL 95-01 Explorers with the exception of the steering extension on 95-97's. Here's the catch, you need the steering extension from the 95-97 kit for 95-97's, but the 95-97 kit does not have the correct bumper lift brackets so after a few hit and misses we found it easier to order the 98-01 kit and then specify that you need the 95-97 extension. When purchasing your bodylift kit, order the 98-00 kit #883. If you have a 95-97, make sure you exchange the 98-00 steering extension for the 95-97 extension. The extensions are very different and cannot be interchanged so make sure you specify which one you need.
Performance Accessories makes excellent kits and are top of the line. Installation time averages around 8 hrs with help from a few friends. The kit price is around $130 which is the cheapest 3" lift around. If you are looking for some lift and on a budget then this is the way to go.

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/body-lift-for-97-x.38793/
Can't find a more recent reply, but I recently confirmed the kit we need for our 97 XLT 4WD is Performance Accessories 3" Ranger kit (PA-853).


As far as battery drain, I had an issue where when I ripped my roof lights clean off on a trail, the cable got a small fray that I couldn't see internally and it let my battery just drain away. So if you have any aftermarket / custom modifications electrically on there I'd give it a look.

Another thing I recall is when I first got mine a few years ago, it had been sitting for over 8 years. The door ajar relay just would not cooperate and for some reason with time everything began to work as it should again, but back then it would act like the door was ajar and leave the relay on etc and drain power. I don't know if relays can get "stuck" or "crusty" but I'd definitely describe my problem as a "crusty relay" since I never changed mine out and it began to work from use so it seems.
Has yours been sitting? That's what comes to mind, for me, personally, from my experiences.

If you're coming from 4runners and Tacomas, I hope you're stoked to do a coil swap to get rid of those torsion bars, otherwise you're looking at a Torsion Twist and a 3" BL for $250 ish.. unless you also really wanna spend a grand and then some on a 4" superlift for the front as limiting factors for stock Explorers from that era... They max out front-end with the 4" superlift + 3" body lift + torsion twist that accomplishes between 1"-1.5" (some say 2") of lift. Or, you can remove the entire front torsion bar setup and run coils.. Or solid axle swap.. or.. Yanno. I mean, it's more fun that way though. It isn't just a simple easy mod that anyone can do in a single afternoon to get "max lift" so it makes it more cool, right?! Lol But from experience, the body lift is a good way to go. I would recommend BL, torsion twist, lift shackles or thicker springs. Pretty much do the front first then level the back to the front so you're not all raked out like a stock F150 ready to tow lol

 

[Metalface]

I don't know why it won't allow me to edit my reply, but,
Here is a link to a thread that highlights the locations of the body mount bushings!
That thread isn't how to install the 3" lift (someone mentioned previously you need two additional longer bolts, and obviously have to fab your own bumper bracket, as far as the kit goes.) but it does show the locations of all the body mounts and has a pic with diagram. Hope that helped

 

[Qdup1]

Thank you for the great reply and help. I did disconnect the light bar up top and will see if that helps. Other than that the only thing the PO did was cut the wires to the air shocks and replaced them with coil over shocks and he did the lift shackle and added a small leaf to the rear.

So, I guess I have about a 2.5" lift maybe already and am trying to get to all the body to frame mounts. So far I found 6 with 8 to go. I guess they are up front someplace.

I believe the BL part number is PA883.

Thanks again.

 

[Metalface]

Thank you for the great reply and help. I did disconnect the light bar up top and will see if that helps. Other than that the only thing the PO did was cut the wires to the air shocks and replaced them with coil over shocks and he did the lift shackle and added a small leaf to the rear.

So, I guess I have about a 2.5" lift maybe already and am trying to get to all the body to frame mounts. So far I found 6 with 8 to go. I guess they are up front someplace.

I believe the BL part number is PA883.

Thanks again.

If you're looking for sneaky body mounts, it's probably the front ones!

No prob!
I recall that 3" BL with some needs a steering extension, but 2.5 does not, with some. Gotta do some searching on that but if you keep that tip in your back pocket you might find what you're looking for faster haha

As far as the light bar, I'd double check that the wires were ran "safely" and "properly." May have had the outer part of a wire rub down to the metal and is making contact somewhere you can't see, not at the outer visible connection you undid. I'd disconnect it from the source (fuse box, battery, wherever they did it,) for a few days just to see. If the problem goes away reconnect it after a few days and see if the problem comes back. Of course, that doesn't 100% prove that that is the variable causing your drain, but it helps narrow it down, as I'm sure you know.

Could even be a faulty alternator, you know. I mean. It could be a million things. But I always start with the simple and obvious first, could totally be the light bar. Hopefully it is, because that's an easy fix, just run some new wiring or diagnose the bar itself.

 

[Qdup1]

I don't know why it won't allow me to edit my reply, but,
Here is a link to a thread that highlights the locations of the body mount bushings!
That thread isn't how to install the 3" lift (someone mentioned previously you need two additional longer bolts, and obviously have to fab your own bumper bracket, as far as the kit goes.) but it does show the locations of all the body mounts and has a pic with diagram. Hope that helped

Thanks, the kit did come with bumper brackets and a bunch of very long bolts for the spacers. And 2 bags of nuts and clamps and some other stuff. It does seem to be very complete. I have no clue what those square brackets are or the round metal tube with the 6" hose. Lol

 

[Qdup1]

If you're looking for sneaky body mounts, it's probably the front ones!

No prob!
I recall that 3" BL with some needs a steering extension, but 2.5 does not, with some. Gotta do some searching on that but if you keep that tip in your back pocket you might find what you're looking for faster haha

As far as the light bar, I'd double check that the wires were ran "safely" and "properly." May have had the outer part of a wire rub down to the metal and is making contact somewhere you can't see, not at the outer visible connection you undid. I'd disconnect it from the source (fuse box, battery, wherever they did it,) for a few days just to see. If the problem goes away reconnect it after a few days and see if the problem comes back. Of course, that doesn't 100% prove that that is the variable causing your drain, but it helps narrow it down, as I'm sure you know.

Could even be a faulty alternator, you know. I mean. It could be a million things. But I always start with the simple and obvious first, could totally be the light bar. Hopefully it is, because that's an easy fix, just run some new wiring or diagnose the bar itself.

Yes the PO didn't do the greatest wiring hookup on the light bar by the looks of things. I will just take it one step at a time. I would think and I hope I can figure it out without taking it my mechanic friend. I believe it has the original alternator and the change gauge doesn't move.

 

[Qdup1]

Yes the PO didn't do the greatest wiring hookup on the light bar by the looks of things. I will just take it one step at a time. I would think and I hope I can figure it out without taking it my mechanic friend. I believe it has the original alternator and the change gauge doesn't move.

Yes, it has sat for about 3 years mostly. The 2nd owner that I purchased it from put 26,000 miles on it in 5 years. The original owner drove it 35,000 miles in 18 years. I saw the CarFax of the history and maintenance things that was done to it by the two owners.

Yes the PO didn't do the greatest wiring hookup on the light bar by the looks of things. I will just take it one step at a time. I would think and I hope I can figure it out without taking it my mechanic friend. I believe it has the original alternator and the change gauge doesn't move.

I may opt for a high output alternator, as they aren't all that expensive. Not like Toyota parts for sure.

 

[C420sailor]

I’d go through the fuse panel with a meter with the truck off and check for current draw. Something must be pulling a semi-decent amount, as most car batteries have quite a few Ah.

 

[EB4X]

Start with the battery fuse, especially if you have an aftermarket stereo....(if you can't resolve this quick of course disconnect a battery terminal overnight so you don't tax your battery anymore then it's been) see here:

 

[Mbrooks420]

That Limited a V8?

 

[Qdup1]

I’d go through the fuse panel with a meter with the truck off and check for current draw. Something must be pulling a semi-decent amount, as most car batteries have quite a few Ah.

Thanks for the help. Yes, I do leave the the battery disconnected until I can figure it out. The PO bought a good battery for it a year ago and at first I thought it had a bad cell or something. It would charge over 13 amps. Luckily it had a free replacement warranty so it was replaced.

That Limited a V8?

No, shucks not a V8, just the hi output V6.

 

[Qdup1]

Start with the battery fuse, especially if you have an aftermarket stereo....(if you can't resolve this quick of course disconnect a battery terminal overnight so you don't tax your battery anymore then it's been) see here:

Thank you guys for all your help. metalxface mentioned that it could be an alternator issue. I did a draw test on the alternator and found out it was pulling over 3 amps. I guess that would be quite a lot, so I bought a new, 220 amp alt. and things seem to be doing just fine. I left the battery hooked up on the Explorer over night and checked the volt reading 12 hours later and it read about 12.70 volts. I will keep my fingers crossed hoping this was the culprit. Btw, I believe the alternator was the original one from the factory. Thanks again to all.

 

[C420sailor]

That’s likely the alternator field circuit

 

[Qdup1]

That’s likely the alternator field circuit

I really know squat about electrical issues on car and trucks. I am glad I joined this site or I would be having to rely on YouTube. I thought it might have been the rectifier and honestly don't know much about their workings either. Never to old to learn something.