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Brake Job Tips

dman726749

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 10, 2003
Messages
3,693
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City, State
Greenwood Indiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 xlt
Well i will be replacing rotors and pads, front and rear, this sat on the ole X. I have done pads before on another car, so i kinda know what i am doing, just looking for any tips from the pro's. :D

Decided to do this after a local shop quoted me 689.00 to get this done, so any tips you have would be great, and thanks in advance :burnout:
 



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Get a big hammer and a giant C-clamp! :hammer:
 






remember to clean and LUBE THE SLIDE PINS. These are the pins that make your caliper slide. If they seize up, the caliper will not be able to move properly leading to reduced brake effectiveness.
 






The rear rotors are going to be a PITA to get off because of the E-brake. Helps to back the adjustor off a little. You'll most likely have to adjust it anyway after changing the rotors. You might as well also replace the shoes for the e-brake if they've never been changed.
 






Here is a site that has a good write-up procedure for Explorer brake jobs. I found it pretty easy to follow these directions the first time around.

Front brake and Hub - Dead Link Removed
Rear Brake - Dead Link Removed
 






For the amount of money you are saving I would get a Haynes Manual. Very good onfo & pics.
 






just be sure that when you are compressing the caliper pistons, you DO NOT put the c-clamp directly on the piston. Use the old pad inbetween the clamp and the piston. Otherwise you have a very good chance of destroying your pistons.
 






jgilbs said:
just be sure that when you are compressing the caliper pistons, you DO NOT put the c-clamp directly on the piston. Use the old pad inbetween the clamp and the piston. Otherwise you have a very good chance of destroying your pistons.

And be sure to open the bleeder screw when compressing the pistons. You don't want to be forcing old nasty fluid back through the ABS HCU.
 






Wow, I just saved myself a bunch of money. I knew they wanted too much, but not that much!!! Anyway, a torque wrench is a necessity to keep from breaking bolts while tightening them to specs. I would put new bearings in at the same time. Not very expensive and they do wear. It's a good time to lube the ball joints while you're under there. If you've got the sealed units, get a syringe attachment for your grease gun and pierce the boot and pump it full of grease (careful, not too full or they'll burst). If yours has fittings it's even better. Either way, if you don't lube those bad boys they'll dry out and you'll be replacin' them too someday. And yes, like Bill said, the Haynes manual is great. You can still get all this stuff, some tools, a nice creeper to keep you off the floor, and six pack of beer and you're still waaaaay ahead of what the shops charge for it. Good luck.
 






thanks foe all the tips, went and got all the parts today along with a haynes manual, total: $265.00, thats for upgraded rotors and pads, too.we shal see how it goes on sat.
 






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