Brake Light out of commission | Ford Explorer Forums

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Brake Light out of commission

drpiv

Member
Joined
November 17, 2003
Messages
10
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0
City, State
Charleston, WV
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Eddie Bauer
My third brake light, the one on the top of the rear gate has not worked since I purchased my 1996 Eddie Bauer Explorer.

My car just failed inspection due to the lack of this light not working. It has passed all other times. The car currently has a "rejection" sticker on the car, meaning I have five days to correct the deficiency.

The inspecting garage wanted $275 to fix this problem, saying it required an expensive part and a withdrawn ordering and installation process.

I say hogwash.

Any insight/expertise into fixing or removing the light is appreciated.

Don
 



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It won't be easy. The 96-97 has the fluorescent center light that some say is a long back order ans the ballast power supply is $80. Others have reported buying the ballast for about $20 from a junkyard. I haven't had to do this on mine yet. Light is riveted in, you have to remove the inside back panel to get at it. I would consider cutting open the lamp assembly, junking the old ballast, and just putting in three small lamps and sockets. This is a lot of work but it may be the only thing you can do in 5 days.
 






Thanks for the feedback. I think I got it.

First thing, tested the number two fuse (7.5 amp). It was fine, replaced it, no change, light still not cooperating. Left it out for this work.

Not as difficult as I thought, just took some time to figure it out. Need to remove the trim on the inside of the back gate (pop out 6-8 push buttons, not difficult). Once out, you can easily see the ballast. Two screws hold the ballast in place. Then remove one slide connector and two wires (which slide into connection as well, one was blue, one white). Once the three connections are removed, the ballast is free and can be tested or replaced.

To remove the light, a bit more involved, but not difficult. Upon removing the ballast, you will see a bolt with a nut on it. Remove that nut. Approximately 8 inches away from that nut, in both directions, you will see a rubber plug. Remove both plugs. Once removed, you will see two more bolts/nuts. Remove these nuts as well being careful not to drop them. If you do, a flexible magnet is your only hope (spoken from experience).

Once the ballast and the three nuts are removed, the only thing holding the light in place is the piece of metal molding around it. I recommend putting a few of the plastic push buttons back into the inside molding so you can safely close the back gate. Once closed, open the window. You will see 6-8 rivets holding the molding to the upper part of the gate, along with the window brackets. You need not do anything to the window brackets, they do not harm the situation.

There are two small nuts on each end of the molding. Remove them, easy. Then drill out the rivets. Start with a small drill bit and increase size until they pop off. Takes a little technique, but easy. Once the rivets are all out and the nuts are off the end, the molding and the light should be free. Carefully remove it all, will be fairly well seated and not easy. MOlding will bend easily, aluminum like, so take care. That is basically it, much easier than I thought.

According to the DS mechanic at the inspection station, the car now should pass (only counts whats on it, the light is no longer on it, I should be fine). Will research the cost of replacing the ballast and the light.
 






so wait because the lite was there and didnt work u failed? but totaly taking it out means u pass? lol thats something else

but that does make sense since my freinds 3rd break lite in his car was just removed...its a civic..mabey thats why hmm
 






I picked up some 3/4 x 4" long LED light strips at a garage sale that I put on my extension luggage carrier that fits in the reveiver. You can remove the plastic cover and take out the circuit board. It is small enough that two of them should fit into the Ford brake tube. Look around for all that light stuff they sell to ricers. There is still a good chance it is just the ballast. Junkyard ought to let you try it out in the parking lot before you buy.
 






Will pass, supposedly, if the jake at the garage meant what he said (said if it was on the vehicle, it had to work, it is definitely no longer on the vehicle, but have not been back yet).

Shopping around on line, will find what I am looking for. Thanks for the tips on the possible fill ins.

Dealer quoted me today $91 for the ballast AND $232 for the light!!! Uninstalled!

What a jip. This just adds to the list of ridiculous quality control snafus with this vehicle, nothing substantive, but constant, picks my tight pockets to the tune of $250+ per year. I hope they got their pocket full on this one, because this is probably the final Ford I will own and I am a long time fan.
 






Just as a follow-up, the car DID NOT PASS.

The jerk at the garage changed his tune and stated that all original equipment on the vehicle had to work. He even produced a law book which DID NOT IN ANY WAY SUPPORT HIS POSITION. He refused to approve it and said "Take it up with the state police." Jerk, hard up to make $500.
 






my fuse for the brake lamp keeps going out and the brake lights want come on. when i hit the breaks it only comes on with slight pressure and then goes off. help!!!!
 






Can you take it to another inspection site?
 






Third brake light fix

Just repaired my third brake light (after garage wanted $300) for $50.00 using a kit (with instructions) from an outfit on the Internet. Send inquiry to info@realbrights.com. Kit was an LED strip with connectors and very detailed instructions on how to pull the old light and install LE strip.
 






Posting in this thread for future viewers:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181999

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182652

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237636

These are links to how-to LED conversions for the neon high mount stop lamp, everything from DIY from scratch LED boards to using an exisiting LED strip from another vehicle.

A high mount stop lamp is required on all vehicles made in the U.S. since 1986, so pretty much every single Explorer is required to have one and it must be working.

Stay safe!
 






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