Brake lines, fuel lines and bears, Oh My!!!

[4x4xbrian.com]

Make sure the caliper slides are free they can give a low or mushy pedal if they are siezed.

 

[mikeinri]

I'll take a look at those. Pretty sure I replaced and lubed them, but it has been sitting a lot.

I really need an answer on the ABS bleeding...

Mike

 

[fordnut71]

it took me over an hour to bleed my brakes after i wheel cyl leak on me. i just using the pumping 3 times an open method. took longer but i got the air to clear out. i did hear when i was looking i would need a tool an such, but i talked to a few shops an they told me to just bleed them how i normaly would do it.

 

[mikeinri]

fordnut, yours is a 1994 as well? I've always done the pump and hold thing, seems to have worked fine every other time.

Mike

 

[fordnut71]

yes mine is a 94 sport with abs.

 

[DeRocha]

As mentioned I would bleed them normally (running a quart of brake fluid (for all 4 wheels). If the brake pedal was still spongy I would then look into getting the ABS bleed..

 

[CobraSix]

I had my rear brake lines part on my way to a new job interview last winter. Of course I was already half way there and didn't have time to go back home and get another car. I drove another 10 miles, filling up the Res every 2-3 miles. All of this in a suit and tie.

But hey, I got the job...

I did end up fixing them but had to replace one of the wheel cylinders as the end of the line was too rusted to remove it from the wheel cylinder.

Slade

 

[mikeinri]

OK, sounds like a plan. I'll bleed like normal and keep my fingers crossed.

Q: Since no one here chimed in on stainless lines, I figure that's a waste of money?

Since I'm a big fan of "fix it all while you're in there" I plan to do every brake line in the truck [steel and rubber, front, back and "service" lines (MC to ABS, etc.]. I may also do the MC while I have it apart (doesn't seem to be leaking, but it's original).

Q: Anyone see an issue with replacing all of the lines at once, then bleeding? Or, should I replace the rears first, bleed them, then move to the front?

Long, long ago, I've had that problem too (brake line frozen in wheel cylinder), I think I had to cut the line to get the cylinder out.

Q: Here's a random thought that I hadn't considered before, anyone use anti-sieze on the threads for the brake line to wheel cylinder connections? Is that a bad idea?

Mike

 

[CobraSix]

I never do. The only reason I had a problem is that somewhere along the line (probably when my dad had the brakes replaced when I was in school) some had rounded out the wheel cylinder connection, so no matter how I ground it down I couldn't get a good edge to remove it. Even an easy out would pull it out and just ended up breaking it.

I'd do them all at once, that way you are only bleeding once.

Yeah, the "While I'm at it" 's can be explosive. I needed to replace an axle bearing and front wheel bearing on my 65. 2 years later I had a new transmission, added a cable clutch, put in an 8" rear end, limited slip, larger back brakes, whole new front end, replaced the oil pan, all new steering, upper and lower control arms, new bushings, new rear shocks, new front spring perches, and disc brakes added.

All because of two bad bearings...

Slade

 

[fordnut71]

stainless isnt really worth the money, aslo its much hard to get a good flair on it cause its a much harder steel to bend.
do all you lines at 1st, then bleed the system. bench bleed the master before installing it tho.
you dont use any sealants or tapes on brake lines. as it can contamate the fluid in time.
kinda like putting brake fluid on paint, might not happen right away but it will in time.

 

[TedJ]

The official Ford procedure for bleeding the ABS involves a fancy-pants adapter and test box that you connect to the abs pump. I would just try to not let any air get into the system before the ABS. I've had the brake hoses disconnected and bled them with no problem... but I never let the master run dry.

If you need to block off ports while the lines are disconnected, use a C-clamp and a piece of hose cut down the side to fit over the top jaw. Tighten the end with the hose over the port and it will seal it. Heater hose works good.

You can replace the master without bleeding the brakes too, you just have to make sure it is 100% bench bled and then when connecting the lines to it, press the pedal down while the fittings are loose and then tighten them before letting off the pedal. This forces out the remaining air. (I've done this on ABS/Traction Control equipped GM vehicles no problem)

Don't change the master with other lines disconnected or leaking, because the fluid loss will suck air into the open tubing at the master (and then the ABS). Change everything else you need to, bleed it and then replace the master. Then drive and see how the pedal feels. If it's still spongy then go abuse the ABS on gravel or snow and bleed it again. Using the ABS does basically the same thing as running the pump with the tool.

 

[mikeinri]

Thanks guys, more good stuff!

Looks like this is the path forward, let me know if something looks out of place:

1. Replace all lines from ABS to wheels.

2. Bleed system.

3. Bench bleed MC, cover ports, and replace MC.

4. Bleed system.

Q1: Where in this process do I replace the MC to ABS lines?

Q2: What is the process to make sure I get the air out of the MC to ABS lines without that air going through the ABS (or, is this not a concern)?

Mike

 

[TedJ]

Do you really need to replace the master to ABS unit lines? Are they THAT rusty?
You could just put some rust stopping paint on them and call it a day....

 

[mikeinri]

Well, unfortunately everything under the hood looks like it got blasted with salt and anything steel is rusty as can be. Even the aluminum is severly pitted. I used to do a lot of highway driving for work, in all sorts of weather. The northeast is just one pile of salt from December through April.

I'm looking to replace everything now since I'll have so much of it apart, I would REALLY be pissed if I skip those lines, finish the job, and blow one of them in a few weeks or months later. REALLY pissed...

EDIT: Would it make sense to attach the new MC to ABS lines before I bench bleed the MC, then plug the ABS end of the lines while I install the MC?

Mike

 

[TedJ]

I would bleed the master first (usually they come with those little plastic plugs and hoses to recirculate the fluid while bleeding), attach it to the truck, then attach the lines to it. Get as much air out of those lines as possible, and then connect them to the ABS pump. Leave the fittings loose and let some fluid drain to get air out, then press the pedal down and tighten them. That should hopefully keep as much air as possible out of the ABS pump...

And if the master you buy comes with only solid plugs for bleeding, not the kit with the plugs that have hose fittings and the clear tubing, don't use them, find one with the hoses. The solid plugs are useless junk, all the air does not come out.

 

[mikeinri]

Update:

Well, it's been sitting for a while, and I tried to tackle it this weekend. My dad came over to "help" which turned into him talking me out of doing the job...

I might have a local mechanic look at this, and maybe give the job to him. Otherwise, it's a junker. I don't think I can sell it whole with the brakes not working. (My wife and neighbors would kill me if I start to rip it apart to part it out...)

So, my question is, can I remove the rear steel line from the ABS unit and plug the ABS unit? I'm thinking that way, I would be able to drive using the front brakes at least to get it to the mechanic.

If yes, can I just plug it with a bolt of the correct thread size? What size? Or, is there a special part for this?

Mike

 

[EMG7895]

I know this sounds bad but my rear line on my old 93 blew out on the highway, I pulled over and crimped it with a pair of vice grips and just left them on there until i got it home and parked.

 

[Four0Sport]

Update:

Well, it's been sitting for a while, and I tried to tackle it this weekend. My dad came over to "help" which turned into him talking me out of doing the job...

I might have a local mechanic look at this, and maybe give the job to him. Otherwise, it's a junker. I don't think I can sell it whole with the brakes not working. (My wife and neighbors would kill me if I start to rip it apart to part it out...)

So, my question is, can I remove the rear steel line from the ABS unit and plug the ABS unit? I'm thinking that way, I would be able to drive using the front brakes at least to get it to the mechanic.

If yes, can I just plug it with a bolt of the correct thread size? What size? Or, is there a special part for this?

Mike

if youre junking it do you mind driving it to WV and parking it in my driveway? I'll gladly take it off your hands.

 

[DeRocha]

You can take out the RABS and just plumb/splice in a new hardline.

 

[mikeinri]

DeRocha,

I don't think my truck has what you're saying. I have a 94 with 4-wheel ABS. The hard line going from the ABS unit (in the engine bay) along the frame, over the gas tank, to the rear axle, is leaking.

All the lines are extremely rusty, so I was planning to replace them all. I'm getting cold feet about doing all that work, so I want to temporarily plug the rear brake hard line so I can get it to a mechanic (without calling AAA, which is looking like a better idea at this point).

Mike