Brake pedal goes to floor / fluid leak

[Stick_man]

You don't need a flare tool if you buy the brake lines with fittings already on them. You just need to get the right length(s). Some creative bending is needed if the line iust a bit long.

where do you get them w/ fittings?

I called a stealer and i don't think ford makes them.

btw the one that comes from the front looks rusty too. although looks different than broken line

how much does a shop charge for this anyway? between my 2 old motorcycles im like fixing crap non stop all weekend /every weekend.


although pre-fitted would make it easy i would think. just pop in a new line. i don't need to jack up the suv for this it looks like

 

[bluestream1]

You can get the brake lines at Autozone, murrays, Pep Boys, or any Napa or other parts place. The explorer is prone to rusting the brake lines on top of the differential where a steel clip holds the brake line. I pried the clip open and used a Ty-wrap there. Just because have rust on them does not mean they are bad. Tap them with a screwdriver, or gentle squeeze with pliers. If bad, they collapse very easily

 

[Stick_man]

it looks like that is where leak is from . . . on top of differential.

what can be ok despite being rusty: the other lines or the clip? never had rust cause something like this before and i used to drive 20 + year old pos

you get fitted lines at pep boys?

also "creative bending"??? can't be too creative with abrupt bend in the line because that causes pressure build-up. seems ez enuf to just measure them and go buy correct length no?

also can i bend with just a rubber hammer and vice or do i need a bender tool?

 

[my pos mounty]

You will not be able to find the exact length brake line all in one piece.
You will most likely have to buy two lengths and joint them together. If this is the case, just buy a junction block at the parts store to join them together.
Measure the existing line and divide it in half and try to get a line that length so that the junction is in the spot where that clip is on the top of the diff. Then just use a ziptie to hold it there. If you can't, try mixing and matching different lengths to get close.
You will have to bend it at each caliper connection. The autoparts store should have a cheap tubing bender. Will only run you about 6 - 8 bucks and will allow you to bend the line without kinking it.

 

[olskool reddevil]

Autozone sells brakeline that is easy to form by hand without a tubing bender . You do not need to combine lengths of line just measure and buy the line did mine last year without cutting just store bought lengths. You have waited this long might as well do it correct .

 

[my pos mounty]

It will be easier for a novice to bend two separate lines to get them to fit. He will not have to be as close across the entire length of the line. Also, for the low cost of the cheap tubing bender, and the added comfort of knowing that he will not put a kink in the brakeline, I believe the $8 would be money well spent.

 

[olskool reddevil]

I hate to say this but I have to agree with you on that for the cost of a cheap bender the rookie can make good bends easy but you only need one piece of line for each side of the j-block. Correction just went out and messured mine one peice 48 inches long j-block to j-block.

 

[96eb96]

it looks like that is where leak is from . . . on top of differential.

what can be ok despite being rusty: the other lines or the clip? never had rust cause something like this before and i used to drive 20 + year old pos

you get fitted lines at pep boys?

also "creative bending"??? can't be too creative with abrupt bend in the line because that causes pressure build-up. seems ez enuf to just measure them and go buy correct length no?

also can i bend with just a rubber hammer and vice or do i need a bender tool?

If you search the forum you will find I posted some tips on how to replace brakelines, there are a few comprehensive threads on how to do this job.

The lines with fittings are available from autozone. In your case you can take a string and measure the rear axle brake line. Then you can hope for a close pre cut size with two fittings on the end, or you will end up making a double flare on one end of the line. The tubing bends easily and does not kink, unless you are purposely trying to make very tight curves.

If one brakeline failed, it is likely others are ready to leak as well. It may be worth to bite the bullet and replace all of them with the coated brakeline. Thank NY for all the salt they throw on the roads.

 

[Stick_man]

went to autozone. actually found someone knowledgable there.

they actually did the same repair for a friend 4 weeks ago and he said he tried all local parts stores and Napa and you can't get the line with fittings there or anywhere near here and he had to make his own.

Between spending 2 hours wiring up the head light bucket yesterday in my cycle; all morning crawling under the truck and measuring it (incdentally leak was not by clip above rear diff. but 3 inches left of it); and having to rent a flare fit . . . I said f that.

I wrapped a rag around leak & brought it in to closest shop to where it was parked. it cost 150 for everything including tax. at 80 an hour and a 9% NY tax, that ain't bad. For once in the longest I'll have clean finger nails and just got to read a paper with my iced coffee while someone else dealt with a PITA. Im happ and mobile again.

Thanks all.

 

[teckpro]

Rear Brake line leak , NO FRONT BRAKES???????????

Hello
Re my 98 2wd xlt v6.

I had a rear Brake Line Leak .

The front also did not work , all fluid escaped out the rear line .

I thought the brake fluid well was secioned off /divided/ partioned so if there is a leak in the rear line , the front would still work.
and visa versa.

so if there is a leak open linein the fornt or back , there is total system failure?

Please Advise,
Andy

 

[juggar]

Rear Brake line leak , NO FRONT BRAKES???????????

Hello
Re my 98 2wd xlt v6.

I had a rear Brake Line Leak .

The front also did not work , all fluid escaped out the rear line .

I thought the brake fluid well was secioned off /divided/ partioned so if there is a leak in the rear line , the front would still work.
and visa versa.

so if there is a leak open linein the fornt or back , there is total system failure?

Please Advise,
Andy

Not trying to necro a thread but I am going through this EXACTLY.

Leaking over the rear axle, low braking ability now. Rear section of the resivor is dry, front has fluid and some braking is present. Right front tire managed to lock up in gravel so the system works at least halfway. Clearly this is a dual circuit system so a bad leak does not dictate total failure.

Drove it a few miles to the shop, I dont deal with brakes, had the e-brake as backup so I felt confident at 10 AM to make the trip. All worked out.

 

[1998Exp]

crawled under truck today. pretty obvious in the day time wit flash light and mirror what happened. appears to leaking in rear line (line connecting t-clamp to passenger caliper hose).
...
that brake fluid reservior is bone dry.
...

Nobody mentioned it, but if the reservoir is dry, there is a good chance that the ABS controller ingested air and will need to be bled. If that happens, you'll find that no matter how long you bleed the calipers, the pedal is still soft. A proper scanner tool is required for that job, which is another reason to head to a garage. Some claim success with shade tree methods for this job, but I doubt that.

 

[J_C]

^ My reservoir ran dry, ABS didn't engage so seemed to not take in any air, to not need bled. After the brake line repair I took it out in wet weather and got ABS to engage a few times which should purge any air out if present, and had no change in brake pedal firmness meaning it did fine, didn't get mushy.

Take it in to a shop if you have an observed, not theoretical problem unresolved, but do make sure the ABS is working properly.