Brakeline replacement - 98 SOHC

[Dave98XLT]

Today I took it in for the annual safety inspection and asked them to put it on the lift and look for corrosion issues. The brakelines from front to rear show a lot of corrosion. I have already had the brake line on the rear axle rupture, so what will be next?

So has anyone undertaken a full brake line replacement on a 98 vehicle and can provide details about how many line segments, and about how long it took, so I can get my mechanic to give an estimate?

These are the lines with the spiral wound shielding. I compared to a 99 EXP and it had teflon or epoxy coated lines which I would replace with.

Something has to be done to this vehicle to keep it safely on the road, but the spare tire carrier is a total mass of corrosion, maybe it is not worth it.

 

[96eb96]

I've done it years ago. You have to get AGS polyarmor brake lines, but I see rust on those too now . The other option may be heat-shrink on those lines. Years back I did it in segments, but you can buy a 25' roll for 20 bucks and plumb it without unions. Shops are going to quote crazy numbers, anywhere from 400-1000 also depending if you need to do the front right too.

 

[Dave98XLT]

The Poly-Armor lines look like good stuff.

I already did the line on the rear axle. How much work is involved in the other three lines? They all look like toast.

 

[96eb96]

The Poly-Armor lines look like good stuff.

I already did the line on the rear axle. How much work is involved in the other three lines? They all look like toast.

Quite a bit of work. Leave the rock guard spiral line alone in the frame, don't try to remove it.

For the flex lines you have to create loops around a soup can.

I suggest getting the 25' roll and plumbing it. Put tape on the open end so crap don't get in. I think I had a writeup here many years ago about doing it with segments. If I had it to do over I would use the roll. Not thrilled that I see some rust on the polyarmor, but it is almost 10 years already. It should last another few years, till the tires age out. Won't be keeping this thing forever.

 

[CDW6212R]

Find the line made of copper and another metal I forget the other ingredients. That line is a legal line and very malleable and resistant to corrosion. I've used it once to replace one line, the short driver's line for a friend's 90 Lincoln(the MC end twisted off).

You can buy that stuff in rolls, and it can be worked easily, even bent by hand as needed. The trick is the flared ends, you absolutely must have perfect ends to seal reliably. Do not use anything buy flared ends, never compression fittings etc.

To save those northern trucks, you need to be proactive with corrosion fighting. You can't kill rust unless it's exposed where you can reach it. Once it gets into a body seam, it's permanent and will grow. All you can do is treat the surface that you can get to, and seal up what you can.

So buy rust dissolver(Eastwood's is the best), and spend some time treating and sealing up what you can. Good luck,

 

[Dave98XLT]

The truck is in pretty bad shape. The spare tire carrier and the crossmember over the rear axle looks like total toast. Is that structurally significant?

 

[96eb96]

The truck is in pretty bad shape. The spare tire carrier and the crossmember over the rear axle looks like total toast. Is that structurally significant?

that cross member attaches to the upper shocks, so if its really bad the shock could pull out.

generally frame rust is a dealbreaker, especially around suspension points.
Different states have various rules for determining when to get it off the road,but there is also common sense.
Does your truck pass inspection for the chasiss?

 

[Dave98XLT]

The main frame rails and their anchoring points to the body look to be in good enough shape right now it's just that spare tire housing and crossover above the axle that's really crusty looking and a lot of the hard lines are badly corroded

 

[koda2000]

If you're going to create your own flares, be sure to create a double flare. If you don't the trumpet end will crack and leak.

I've never plumbed a complete new brake system on a modern vehicle, but I've plumbed many complete braking systems on classic cars and hot rods. Stainless steel line is great for eliminating rust problems, but is expensive and hard to work with. Standard steel and polyarmor line is sold in a variety of lengths with the ends attached at any auto parts store. Unions are also readily available for joining pieces together. Use the longest lengths you can to minimize unions and if you're not comfortable double flaring the ends, add bends to shorten lengths that are a few inches too long.

Don't forget your rubber lines need to be replaced too. Especially if showing cracks/dry rot. When they get old they can swell under pressure, leading to a spongy feeling pedal. The insides break down too.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto on the rust of the frame and suspension. Keep an eye on that as well as critical things like the brake lines. Stop the rust around cross members and structural things. It's way harder to fix one after many years of being left unattended to.

 

[Dave98XLT]

Well it is either dump it or replace the brake lines, life insurance I guess.

So are there dimensions available for these lines? How should I attach the lines to the frame or body?

I guess I will use pre-built coupler segments as much as possible. Seems like the front two lines are one piece. Can I get a single prebuilt piece for the one that runs from the master to the tee in the rear?.

 

[96eb96]

Well it is either dump it or replace the brake lines, life insurance I guess.

So are there dimensions available for these lines? How should I attach the lines to the frame or body?

I guess I will use pre-built coupler segments as much as possible. Seems like the front two lines are one piece. Can I get a single prebuilt piece for the one that runs from the master to the tee in the rear?.

I have a writeup on here where I go in detail, it is many years old. I have to find it.

 

[Dave98XLT]

There are pre-formed brake line kits available on the market. I searched for a kit for an 98 SOHC and found a company called Fine Lines in Akron, OH (https://sstubes.com/) who makes a pre formed kit for a 98-01 5.0 XLT, but not for a 4.0 model. They were asking a very reasonable $200 for the kit.

They said they would need a few months and a donor 4.0 vehicle to be able to offer a kit for the SOHC. Anyone interested in providing the vehicle?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-01-Explorer-5-0L-engine-Complete-Brake-Line-Kit-Stainless-/311464656938?fits=Make:Ford|Model:Explorer&hash=item4884bd802a:i:311464656938&vxp=mtr

 

[CDW6212R]

The engine makes no difference in the brake lines for a 2nd gen Explorer.

 

[koda2000]

Stainless steel brake lines are great because they'll never rust, but they tend to leak at the fittings because SS lines are much harder than regular mild steel. Be sure to use line wrenches on the fittings as you'll need to make them good and tight and regular open-end wrenches will round off the fittings.

 

[swshawaii]

^ FYI wrench size is 11mm.

Flare nut wrench size | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

 

[Dave98XLT]

They sell kits in steel and stainless. Accordingly the kit they sell doesn't work on the 4.0l models and customers have returned it. They are not sure of the differences. It is sold as one complete kit on ebay or 3 separate kits on their website (front, f-r, rr axle).

 

[CDW6212R]

The Sport models will have a shorter line going to the rear brakes, and that's because the body is shorter.