Brakes clicking sound in the back | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Brakes clicking sound in the back

crpowell67

Member
Joined
April 1, 2014
Messages
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City, State
Christopher, IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 ford explorer
I have a 1993 ford explorer (4.0L MFI 6cyl) when I hit the brakes I hear a clicking sound coming from the back same as you hear when turn signals are on.

I do know I need to replace the negative battery cable due to corrosion and gonna replace positive too just to be safe.

the 4x4 does not work either nor the trailer wiring I can hear the box by were the jack goes clicking when I press 4x4 button

could this all be connected to needing cables replaced?
 



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You are going to have to be more specific, and what do the brakes have to do with this? There are relays in the area you describe.
 






The 4x4 not working is almost certainly the shift motor on the transfer case. Here's a thread that will help with that:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1102904

EDIT: There is also a sticky at the top of this forum that may come in handy, it's the "4x4 trouble shooting guide"

Also if you got automatic hubs they could very well be blown, and if they aren't they will soon after using 4x4 a few times. Also remember to not use 4x4 on any high traction areas. Only mud, snow, sand, and maybe even gravel if you truly need it.

The clicking in the back means the ground for the trailer wiring is working. At least as far and I know. I didn't have relays clicking back there, (For brakes or signals) UNTIL AFTER I hooked up a trailer wire harness.

The battery cables most likely have nothing to do with anything that's going on that you said. But I'm sure it's about time for everyone's first gen to get new battery cables if they haven't already. So I would still do that if I was you. I know I will be soon!
 






The clicking you are hearing in the back is one of the trailer light relays.

Models equipped with the towing option have a load relay setup which is located in the jack storage.

The usual way this gets screwed up is from owners who are not aware their rig is already wired for trailer and try to hook up trailer lights the old fashioned way. (tapping directly into the tail light wires).

Why do they put this in there?

Have you ever seen a vehicle with a trailer and when they use the turn signal it flashes way to fast? That's why.

So somebody probably hacked up the tail light wires.

If there is some sort of after market trailer pig tail back there (flat four) get rid of it.

Above the spare tire their is a factory plug on the right side of the truck where the factory 7 pin trailer adapter plugs in.

If someone has cut this plug off and fudged the wiring, not to worry.

Just cut off whatever they did and connect together all the white wires (they are all grounds)

Then leave the brown, orange. green wires capped off and your good to go.

BTW if you need to connect a trailer you CAN use the "flat four".

Just leave the white grounds connected together, attach the black ground on the flat four to the three whites and then just use a test light to determine which of the others are turn, brake and running lights and connect as necessary.


This is also the issue with your 4x4. The bad ground back there is preventing the relay from closing.

Note: Cruise control will not work with the brake lights screwed up like this either


Having said all of that, you may just have a bad relay back there. .. ..
 






Yes, splicing wires in can cause problems. I have been told that you are hooking them in parallel, and according to Ohms law, you are reducing the circuit resistance. On top of that, you are increasing current. I cant verify, because I have never looked at a wire schematic for the trailer lights, but it would make sense. In series, you would have 2 loads, and 2 voltage drops. Neither the tail lights or the trailer lights would work well at all, and if anything I would think they would blink very slow. That said, I have done it, and it works fine if you are ok with rapid blinking lights. The proper way would be to run all new wires with a separate relay, but as was stated, they often come with it already installed. Now, since you hear the relay clicking, I assume you have a factory plug in. If that is the case, you can simply un plug the adapter, and test each individual probe for power. Chances are that the connection is bad/corroded. A good cleaning, and some dielectric grease should fix it. If you still don't get power at the plug, get a new adapter.

I never realized the relay for the shift motor was back there, but I guess where else would it be? Do as FR-425 says.

One thing to note if you do have to re connect the wiring, twist the wires at first (but don't let them touch) to verify, then when you make final connections its vital you either use butt connectors or better yet is to solder and shrink wrap. The trailer wiring is in one of the worst areas for corrosion.
 






I went and looked I took off the drivers side tail light there is no wires spliced in, the wiring goes though a hole behind the tail light into the spot where the jack goes hooked to a connector the other end goes behind the bumper and has a 4 plug connector for the trailer on it.

And cruise control works fine
 






That 4 plug connector is not stock and is likely the culprit.

When I said tapped into the tail lights I didn't mean literally right "at" the light fixture.

They can be tapped into any where underneath the truck.
 






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