BW 4405 shift ramp

[Rigger 19]

is it possible to install the shift ramp shaft in wrong?

i just rebuilt my transfercase due to the infamous shift rail bore issue. That went fine but after checking all my fluids and backing out of the lift, my tires would start to shake when trying to turn the wheels, so drove it back in and am now stumped

could my TC be in 4x4 and my electric shift telling me im in 2x4?

thanks alot
Rigger 19

 

[gmanpaint]

is it possible to install the shift ramp shaft in wrong?

i just rebuilt my transfercase due to the infamous shift rail bore issue. That went fine but after checking all my fluids and backing out of the lift, my tires would start to shake when trying to turn the wheels, so drove it back in and am now stumped

could my TC be in 4x4 and my electric shift telling me im in 2x4?

thanks alot
Rigger 19

Can you be a little more descriptive? Which wheels? Turning the steering wheel and fronts shake, or when rolling the rears shake?

If it is the fronts shaking, you just have to turn the steering wheel lock to lock a few times to bleed the system. Happens sometimes when the wheels are off the ground.

If it is the rears, I am not sure what would cause that, beside a messed up gear mesh in the rear diff.

 

[Rigger 19]

ya sorry bout that, it was the front wheels shaking when i turned the wheel while backing out,

what happens while the truck is off tires that would cause this?

thanks alot ill let you know how things work out when i get back to the shop tomorrow

 

[IZwack]

Thats probably not the ramp's problem - the shift ramp is only used for LO range engagement. Engagement of the front wheel is driven by the electromagnet which then allows the clutch plates to squeeze together. First disconnect the electrical connectors and see if the shaking is still there. If so, the problem is on the clutch plate stack - something is putting unnecessary pressure.

 

[Rigger 19]

well i hope its not a ramp problem, just in another thread someone mentioned "Your in 4HI or 4LO, take it out of 4WD. Your tires shudder because as you go around a corner with the 4 wheel drive engaged, all 4 wheels are turning at different speeds"

this then made me think maybe my tc is in 4x4 and my shifter(on dash) tells me im in 2x4.
if it was the clutch plates wouldnt it do it when the front driveline was driving regardless if wheels were turned or not?

thanks alot

 

[IZwack]

if it was the clutch plates wouldnt it do it when the front driveline was driving regardless if wheels were turned or not?

No -- the reason why your tires shake is because the drivetrain is in 4wd and therefore binding when going around turns. See when a car turns, not all wheels follow the same path - and the rear axle follows a different path from the front axle - hence there is a difference in the distance traveled. This difference in distance traveled is what causes the binding. When a vehicle is going straight, all wheels and both axles follow the same path and therefore there is no difference and no drivetrain bind.

Like I said, disconnect the electrical connector and try to make the same turns. If the drivetrain still binds, its the clutch plate stack. If it doesnt bind, then the problem is electrical.

 

[gmanpaint]

I guess I should have asked if you were in 4wd or not.
Yes being in 4wd on dry pavement will cause the wheels to shudder when turning. That is driveline wind up. I was assuming you know about this.

I would try the lock to lock a few times first, (cause its easy and fast) and if that does not change anything, I would then get all 4 wheels off the ground & place it in gear to see which wheels spin. If the rears only spin, you should be in 2wd, and all four, 4wd. With the control trac it might be a little jumpy with the clutch in the t-case doing it's thing with all 4 in the air. Don't be alarmed at this. Also make sure if you do this to have the rig stable, and someone with you.

Take it for a test drive, see if it changes gears, and is in the proper gear range. I have seen the shift fork installed wrong, and messes the shifting and gear range.

Edit: I was responding and didn't see Izwack's reply. Not trying to confuse ya here.

 

[Rigger 19]

ok so my TC may be in 4x4
i will definately unplug the electrical connectors and test it
the clutch plates looked fine when i was on the inside, is there something noticable that maybe i missed when i had the TC apart?

 

[IZwack]

ok so my TC is in 4x4.
i will definately unplug the electrical connectors and test it
the clutch plates looked fine when i was on the inside, is there something noticable that maybe i missed when i had the TC apart?

Its been a while since I took apart a 4405 but pay attention to how the plates are oriented - especially the bottom one. There are two types of plates, the bottom one must be the correct type and facing the correct direction.

 

[Rigger 19]

ok so now that it may be my clutch plates, that would mean that i am in 4x4 because they only engage when in either 4x4H or 4x4L is that correct?

GMANPAINT - thanks alot ill definately try all that,

 

[IZwack]

ok so now that it may be my clutch plates, that would mean that i am in 4x4 because they only engage when in either 4x4H or 4x4L is that correct?

Yes that is partially correct from the perspective that Ford design the system to operate.

Think of LO and HI range as separate from 4wd. In other words, 4WD is mechanically separate from being in HI or LO range. You can have 4wd in HI and LO range. You can also have 2wd in HI range and LO range. However, the electronics is designed (by Ford) so that whenever you engage LO range, it automatically kicks in the 4wd system too. Hence the system is either in AUTO/2wd, 4HI, or 4LO. There is such a thing as the "brown wire mod" which disconnects the electromagnet from the rest of the system - which then allows people to go into true 2HI or 2LO.

 

[Rigger 19]

ahhh very useful thanks alot,

2hi n 2lo is that something like an overdrive?

 

[gijoecam]

The first thing to figure out is whether it's an electrical issue or a mechanical issue. Unplug the big connector at the shift motor and see if the problem persists. If it does, it's a mechanical issue. If it goes away, you have an electrical gremlin remaining. Start there and report back.

Also, you do not have a 2wd setting. You have 4auto or 4high/low. There is no true 2wd setting from the factory. That's why I want to start by disconnecting the electronics, and that's done most easily by disconnecting the connector. it cuts all the connections to the case, so if it's a mechanical issue, the problem persists; if it's an electrical issue, the problem goes away.

Make sense?