C1095 and ABS pump fuse blown. | Ford Explorer Forums

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C1095 and ABS pump fuse blown.

freak

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Location
Northwest Ohio
City, State
Pemberville
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000, Explorer XLS
I've got a c1095 code and the ABS pump 30 amp fuse is blown. Should I put in a new fuse just to verify it's the motor? Also can that motor be replaced independent of the valve body?
 



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How does putting a new fuse in, verify it's the motor? It might be the motor, but couldn't it instead be the control circuit in the ABS module? A more definitive test would be disconnect the motor and test it, or then put the fuse in without the motor connected. I suppose it's also possible that a rodent or other wear could be shorting out the wiring to the relay for it, and while it's not a definitive test, if you unplug the ABS module connector, and put a fuse in, and it still blows with vehicle running, you know there is some other cause than the module.

I haven't heard of anyone replacing just the motor but it seems like it should be possible if you can find one. I would have guessed that all you will find is old/used ones pulled off a bad HCU and I wouldn't want to bother using one that was potentially in service for over 20 years already... though I can appreciate fixing things inexpensively so I suppose it depends on what a junkyard wants for one... I wouldn't pay dozens of dollars plus shipping for something off ebay and don't know if you need some additional gaskets or other seals too.

If you get to the point where you know for certain you need to either replace just the motor or the entire HCU, at that point it seems like there's no further risk to go ahead and try to extract the motor to see if you find any problems in putting it back into working order with a different motor.

I don't even recall, is the motor bolted on, or riveted? I suppose in most cases, rivets could be drilled out and replaced with bolts.
 






How does putting a new fuse in, verify it's the motor? It might be the motor, but couldn't it instead be the control circuit in the ABS module? A more definitive test would be disconnect the motor and test it, or then put the fuse in without the motor connected. I suppose it's also possible that a rodent or other wear could be shorting out the wiring to the relay for it, and while it's not a definitive test, if you unplug the ABS module connector, and put a fuse in, and it still blows with vehicle running, you know there is some other cause than the module.

I haven't heard of anyone replacing just the motor but it seems like it should be possible if you can find one. I would have guessed that all you will find is old/used ones pulled off a bad HCU and I wouldn't want to bother using one that was potentially in service for over 20 years already... though I can appreciate fixing things inexpensively so I suppose it depends on what a junkyard wants for one... I wouldn't pay dozens of dollars plus shipping for something off ebay and don't know if you need some additional gaskets or other seals too.

If you get to the point where you know for certain you need to either replace just the motor or the entire HCU, at that point it seems like there's no further risk to go ahead and try to extract the motor to see if you find any problems in putting it back into working order with a different motor.

I don't even recall, is the motor bolted on, or riveted? I suppose in most cases, rivets could be drilled out and replaced with bolts.

The motor is on a separate 30 amp fuse than the controller.
 






^ Okay but that seems rather high, I don't think the motor actually uses 30A so I can only assume you determined the motor is on that fuse and is the only thing on it?

Even then, it is still running through the controller, no?... I will look into it...

Which fuse #? The only 30A fuse I see, #7 in the power dist. box, is not a direct circuit to the motor, still runs through the ABS control module so is still subject to a fault in it, as well as the motor itself.
 






^ Okay but that seems rather high, I don't think the motor actually uses 30A so I can only assume you determined the motor is on that fuse and is the only thing on it?

Even then, it is still running through the controller, no?... I will look into it...

No the fuse is there to protect the wire. So the motor draw is certainly under 30 amps.
 






That doesn't change the need to test each individual portion if you don't want to just replace everything involved and if everything means the whole HCU and you didn't check wiring,... then possibly didn't need to replace HCU.

It seems like you don't want my advice since you aren't following it and almost posting in a disagreeable way. I'm giving you all I have to try until you have more evidence to go by. If you just want to shotgun and replace the motor, it's something to try but I don't see the evidence yet that this is a clear cause and solution. Then again I can't see what you see, words are not as good as being there in person.
 






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