- December 21, 2012
- Reaction score
- City, State
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 XLT 4.0
understood, but i am only changing the rear diff fluid... heat isn't a huge issue. I'm wondering if i need the rear diff fluid warmed up for it to properly drain
Thanks, guys. I have been sitting on the write-up for months just because I did not have the several hours to set aside that are needed to get it all posted up and formatted. Hopefully it will help a lot of folks out, even if they just need to know how to take care of the oil in the differential.
The front differs mostly in the fact that the cover has a fill plug but no drain, so you simply remove the cover to drain, resealing it with RTV and filling with 80/90 to just below the fill hole. For the rear add an additional 8 ounces through the ABS sensor hole. If working on the floor, level the vehicle as best you can for accuracy, but be safe, rather be a little off on capacity then take a chance.Okay I'm thinking about doing some maintenance possibly this week (change diff oil). Is the front the same...does it follow the same procedure and oil? I've read a few threads and I've read some say that you need to add about a quart more after closing the fill plug. Is this true, could I add the rest through the breather hole?
For the rear add an additional 8 ounces through the ABS sensor hole. If working on the floor, level the vehicle as best you can for accuracy, but be safe, rather be a little off on capacity then take a chance.
OP awesome write up, great photos. This helped me, thank you.
the flange nut and flange is very tight. 1/2 impact will be a lot easier. when you get the nut off. take a file and cut a small notch in the pinion and on the nut
reason is the paint will come off or get messed up from the sealer.
the nut going back on will go easy till it seats. it will be about 1/4 to 1/8 from where it was. breaker bar will let you go just pasted where the marks are.
if you have on jack stands. can block the tires to keep the pinion from turning.
also the drive shaft don't need to be removed. it will be out of way
The puller is a must DONT try to beat the flange off.
The numbers Josh listed are correct national is 3604
if your can crushes and it will. you can tap rest of way with a light hammer
So I new for a few months now that I had a leaky diff and I had cleaned as much of the oily dirt off as I could before and I just crawled under again today and cleaned better. I thought it was the cover seal that was leaking but after reading this how to it definitely is the pinion seal. I'm glad to see because it is a lot less work to do.
So the question I have is if the socket for the flange nut needs to be a deep well or if a regular socket will do?