Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
I bypassed mine yesterday by hooking the two hoses together, will this work? I'm not concerned with the emissions because I'm exempt here in PA, I'm gonna mount my remote tranny filter here.
Look at another thread about remote transmission filters. It is recommended to mount them in the front so that it gets more cooling. AlDive added something called a cooler collar around the filter to reduce the temperature even more.
I looked at those pics and I don't like it mounted down there, I'm worried about it getting hit by rocks, limbs, etc. I'm also adding a larger tranny cooler so that should help cool things down too. Thanks for the advice though
The cooler collar might be able to provide some protection from rocks puncturing the oil filter. You could just use the small inline model with the magnet, and bypass built into it. It was on the following page of that link. That is small enough to be mounted just about anywhere.
On the pipe marked by the red arrow should be Purge Valve, like the Valve that is on th photo below:
Possible 93 year model
91 year model
I have bought a car without this staff
Please, if possible, make a picture of purge valve with electric cutoff or please explain to me how I can find the cutoff in my X93?
I can order new Purge valve, but i need know where it must be mounted and where I must locate electrc cutoff point for it.
If you go with green the bulbs will last longer before they need to be replaced. But blue is considerably brighter. Whatever you do, don't use red. Red sucks!
That's the purge valve that you have circled in red. The two caps on top of the rectangular charcoal canister are just dust caps over the canister vents.
Here's how it works: Engine off, vapor from the fuel tank caused by expansion on a hot day is forced up the vent hose into the charcoal canister and absorbed by the charcoal.
Engine on: the solenoid (the small cylinder in line with the purge hose) is activated allowing engine vacuum to pull air in through the canister, sucking out the fuel vapor.
The tank vapor line runs between the tank and the canister. The purge line runs from the canister, through the solenoid valve and up to a vacuum port on the intake manifold.
Charcoal canister should never go bad unless it gets cracked or flooded with water.
That's the purge valve that you have circled in red. The two caps on top of the rectangular charcoal canister are just dust caps over the canister vents.
Here's how it works: Engine off, vapor from the fuel tank caused by expansion on a hot day is forced up the vent hose into the charcoal canister and absorbed by the charcoal.
Engine on: the solenoid (the small cylinder in line with the purge hose) is activated allowing engine vacuum to pull air in through the canister, sucking out the fuel vapor.
The tank vapor line runs between the tank and the canister. The purge line runs from the canister, through the solenoid valve and up to a vacuum port on the intake manifold.
Charcoal canister should never go bad unless it gets cracked or flooded with water.
I`m understand all of it! But! I have bought a car without purge valve and i can`t fix it because i dont know WHERE IS _electric cutoff_ for a purge valve.
I need photo of this stuff for locate electric cutoff. Please!
Possibly electric cutoff have two wires - red and yellow. I have find one like purge valve electric cutoff but it damaged (molten with HOT discharge manifold). Prevision car owner is peace of ****!
