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Cam
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SteveVB
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Ive got the smaller Comp Cams HR 256 ( part number 410-8)cam in mine.
Drivability is fine- if you know what your listening for you can tell something is different. Idles fine at the stock setting, power seems to be about the same off idle, and picks up in the 2000 and up range. Gas milage seems to be decent- dont really keep track of it but getting about 250 miles on 3/4 of a tank. I have about 1100 miles on it, havent done any testing yet but may someday. Trying to track down an exhaust leak at the moment, and before I spend money on a dyno tune I want to get a TB and MAS upgrade.
I have an Auto trans and run 31's with 3.55's at present. I think that the vehicle needs more gear to get it up into the power band. I was told that HP, and torque would shift up 300 or so RPM and that seems to be about right from what I have experienced so far. So gears are on my list of to dos in the near future. I want to finish the intake side before I decide on the gears though.
Hope that helps
Drivability is fine- if you know what your listening for you can tell something is different. Idles fine at the stock setting, power seems to be about the same off idle, and picks up in the 2000 and up range. Gas milage seems to be decent- dont really keep track of it but getting about 250 miles on 3/4 of a tank. I have about 1100 miles on it, havent done any testing yet but may someday. Trying to track down an exhaust leak at the moment, and before I spend money on a dyno tune I want to get a TB and MAS upgrade.
I have an Auto trans and run 31's with 3.55's at present. I think that the vehicle needs more gear to get it up into the power band. I was told that HP, and torque would shift up 300 or so RPM and that seems to be about right from what I have experienced so far. So gears are on my list of to dos in the near future. I want to finish the intake side before I decide on the gears though.
Hope that helps
SteveVB
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lets see, I had no problems with the install, I put mine in when I rebuilt my engine. I made the decision that I would not change the cam until I rebuilt my engine- reason - most of the parts that need to be replaced during the rebuild are the same as swapping out the cam. With the roller cam and lifters being so expensive it was the only way I could justify doing it. Plus while the engine was out it would be easy (physically) to do.
Cost for the parts for a cam swap was around $800, which was the cam(250), new lifters(200), pushrods(75), valve springs(100), timing gear and tensioners(100), gaskets (100). The incremental cost to do the comp cam over the stock cam with the rebuild was about $200 or a little less than the cam itself.
The install is not difficult if you have put in a cam before and especially if you have worked with non adjustable rocker arms previously.
The lifter pre load needs to be checked and corrected with the install. In my case I used new longer custom chrome moly push rods from Smith Bros. Time is all that it takes because you must measure the length you need and then have them make them up and ship them out. Smith Bros is on the west coast and I live near DC so not something I could do in a day if I wanted. Although they made them the same day I called in the order and shipped to me in 3 day air so less than a weeks wait.
The only other area that needs attention is the valve spring pressures. Here I ducked the issue by giving it to my machinist who checked and set all of the springs when he did the rebuild and assembly of my heads. I purchased new stock springs to use. This is the area that I had the hardest time choosing the parts due to the conflicting info I got from different sources. Went with Sven from Vanir who said the cam was designed to use the stock springs. I am not sure my machinist and I saw eye to eye on this one. I think I am getting some minor valve float in the upper 4k rpms and am wondering about the seat pressures with the more radical ramp and lift on the new cam. May have to revisit the issue at some point.
If you have some specific questions Ill see what I can do. I did all of the cam work with the exception of the spring assembly myself so fire away.
Cost for the parts for a cam swap was around $800, which was the cam(250), new lifters(200), pushrods(75), valve springs(100), timing gear and tensioners(100), gaskets (100). The incremental cost to do the comp cam over the stock cam with the rebuild was about $200 or a little less than the cam itself.
The install is not difficult if you have put in a cam before and especially if you have worked with non adjustable rocker arms previously.
The lifter pre load needs to be checked and corrected with the install. In my case I used new longer custom chrome moly push rods from Smith Bros. Time is all that it takes because you must measure the length you need and then have them make them up and ship them out. Smith Bros is on the west coast and I live near DC so not something I could do in a day if I wanted. Although they made them the same day I called in the order and shipped to me in 3 day air so less than a weeks wait.
The only other area that needs attention is the valve spring pressures. Here I ducked the issue by giving it to my machinist who checked and set all of the springs when he did the rebuild and assembly of my heads. I purchased new stock springs to use. This is the area that I had the hardest time choosing the parts due to the conflicting info I got from different sources. Went with Sven from Vanir who said the cam was designed to use the stock springs. I am not sure my machinist and I saw eye to eye on this one. I think I am getting some minor valve float in the upper 4k rpms and am wondering about the seat pressures with the more radical ramp and lift on the new cam. May have to revisit the issue at some point.
If you have some specific questions Ill see what I can do. I did all of the cam work with the exception of the spring assembly myself so fire away.
flyguy
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Ugh. hehe. I did a head swap by myself and that took me weeks. I think I would have to pay someone to do that kind of work... I might be able to install the cam myself (I heard it can be done without pulling the engine) but then I dont know about getting the new pushrods and all that. Im dont think Im in the ballpark for a rebuild so I would be doing this just for the cam... hmmm...
nick
nick
rockylaurence
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FLYGUY
I followed your head install and was impressed by the effort. I've be away for awhile and would like to know how the heads are performing. Have you had any problems with preignition, cheap gas, etc? Was the heads worth the cost or would you stay with stock, if you were to do it again?
I followed your head install and was impressed by the effort. I've be away for awhile and would like to know how the heads are performing. Have you had any problems with preignition, cheap gas, etc? Was the heads worth the cost or would you stay with stock, if you were to do it again?
flyguy
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Well... I would have to say they were not worth the money... considering my gains with ALL my mods was a measly 19hp. I dont know how much just the heads gave me... I could not afford a before and after dyno test... just the after... Vanir claims its around 5hp though. However, I did get to replace and clean out stuff as I went... so there was an advantage there... and if you have a cracked head... it really doesnt cost any more to use the newer heads....
one other note... something that was pointed out, they I forgot to do. I should of had my new heads worked on before I installed them. Such as getting them polished and all that at a machine shop. THEN I would have seen much better gains. Whoops... forgot.
I might do that this summer when I can take off from school and stay at my parents for a week or 2.
nick
one other note... something that was pointed out, they I forgot to do. I should of had my new heads worked on before I installed them. Such as getting them polished and all that at a machine shop. THEN I would have seen much better gains. Whoops... forgot.
I might do that this summer when I can take off from school and stay at my parents for a week or 2. nick
SteveVB
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Nick,
Just a thought- If your going to take your heads off again this summer you could do the cam install then. Your lifters are new so you should be able to reuse them, and while the heads are at the shop they could set up the springs. All you would have to work out would be the push rods which are not too hard if you take the time to do the measurements. Just some thoughts to get you thinking. LOL
Just a thought- If your going to take your heads off again this summer you could do the cam install then. Your lifters are new so you should be able to reuse them, and while the heads are at the shop they could set up the springs. All you would have to work out would be the push rods which are not too hard if you take the time to do the measurements. Just some thoughts to get you thinking. LOL
flyguy
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Hmmm... so once Im down to the heads, is that as far as I have to go to remove the cam? Or do I have to remove more? Hmmm... also... there is no set length for the new pushrods? Okay...and do you know how much it would cost for me to get the springs and pushrods done, if I acually installed the cam myself?
nick
nick
SteveVB
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After the heads are off you still need to remove the front cover to get the cam out.
Depending on the cam you choose putting in new springs when the machine shop works on your heads shouldnt cost much if they use the stock seats, they have to take the valves and springs off to do the head work. If you go with a big cam the spring seats may need to be worked on for another 60- 100, Once again depends on the cam you choose.
The push rods cost me about $75 for the set, plus you need to buy an adjustable rod with the dia and ends you want to use so you can measure- another $15. The best way to get the length of the pushrods is to measure after you have the cam and heads on- could be the push rods you have are ok but probably not. You use the adjustable to use as a checking/measuring device, measure it and send off the length to be made.
Just some more things to think about.
Depending on the cam you choose putting in new springs when the machine shop works on your heads shouldnt cost much if they use the stock seats, they have to take the valves and springs off to do the head work. If you go with a big cam the spring seats may need to be worked on for another 60- 100, Once again depends on the cam you choose.
The push rods cost me about $75 for the set, plus you need to buy an adjustable rod with the dia and ends you want to use so you can measure- another $15. The best way to get the length of the pushrods is to measure after you have the cam and heads on- could be the push rods you have are ok but probably not. You use the adjustable to use as a checking/measuring device, measure it and send off the length to be made.
Just some more things to think about.
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