Can I replace conventional with synthetic

[v1rotv2]

Hey folks. Have any of you replaced all of your oils, ATF and gear lubes with synthetic in a high mileage engine? I had a amsoil dealer tell me not to do it with anything over 50,000 mi. I was shocked. My Explorer (93) has 146,000. Any experience with this? Thanks

 

[carlover]

By all means go for it. I changed everything over on my 96 when i got it at about 125k. Better protection, and gas mileage. Its a little costly up front but id say do it.

 

[v1rotv2]

Thanks Sean

By all means go for it. I changed everything over on my 96 when i got it at about 125k. Better protection, and gas mileage. Its a little costly up front but id say do it.

I appreciate the fast come back. I just got off the phone with Ford service and they say they only use a synthetic blend now anyway. I geuss with your advice and Ford's ok thats what I going to do.

 

[rizzjc]

If it's not leaking now, it should leak NOT later, which is always the fear with synthetic. Search around the site. Probably 50% of the threads are about this very topic. Lots of opinions. I've got synthetic in everything, but I've run it in the engine since new. I had an old car, already leaking, that I put synthetic in once, and it leaked worse, which of course makes sense. But shouldn't cause you a leak.

 

[aldive]

I would do the switch. Use full synthetic not blend.

Good luck ....

 

[trucku]

IMO Synthetic definitely won't cause a leak, but will eventually unplug your sludge that is keeping you leak free. It will not make a leak that is not already there.

I would not go with blends, since the debate on how much synthetic is actually in it is still hot.
Amsoil is a true group IV PAO synthetic and carries the price (definitely worth it).

If your gonna be changing your oil every 2-3k miles stay with normal dino. It will do the same job. Otherwise go with the synthetic and increase your mileage change interval

A very good synthetic still is Mobil1 (under 6 bucks if your lucky) and Pennzoil Platinum (as cheap as $4 a quart for 5quart jug).

I am currently running Pennzoil Platinum and happy with it.

Don't forget to compliment you oil investment with a high quality filter.

 

[v1rotv2]

Thanks folks I appreciate the info. I'm going to go straight syn throughout. I saw where Mobil 1 has a high mileage type. It says the oil has seal conditioners. Guess I'll go that way. We've had this Explorer since new and I really like the old girl. Hope to keep another 14 yrs.

 

[pope_face]

I switched over from the dino oil to full synthetic (Royal Purple) a few months ago, back in about Feb or so. I'd just bought the car in December, and the PO had done maintenance on it a week prior, so I didn't see the need to replace the fluids. Now, because I drive so much, I can't afford to change the oil too often. I do it about every three months, or 6,000 km. Last time I changed it was sometime in May, so I'm due for another change.

Now, yesterday I was doing a fair bit of driving. I'd done about 100+ km during the day, and as I was driving along a street with a slight incline, the car started bogging. It had been running worse for a couple days, but it had started raining about the same time so I thought perhaps it was just moisture content in the air. I would press on the gas pedal, and the engine wouldn't increase revs for a second, and then it would kick in and start accelarating. Also, the engine was running a bit hard, as if it lacked power. So, yesterday as I was driving up the hill, the engine started bogging again, only this time it would take a second for the engine to kick in and start accelerating, and then it would bog again, for a second, and repeat until I got to about 10 or 20 km/h, then it began to pick up again. At the top of the hill I turned the corner and drove another two blocks, when I noticed my revs at idle were way too low... about 500 rpm. It was still weak and chugging along, so I pulled over to the side and put it into neutral. It smelt a little like oil burning or something inside, so I shut off the engine and checked all the fluids. None of them were low, and the oil had no debris or anything and was clear enough. I restarted the engine and gunned it up to 5,000 rpm a couple times, when my cousin and sister (who had gotten out of the car) noticed black smoke coming from the exhaust... When I looked out the window, I could see it too. I revved it a few more times to see if it was burning oil, or if there was something just stuck in the pipes. The black smoke kept coming out under hard revving, but there was nothing there during idle, which had returned back to its spot at about 1,000 rpm. I looked at the ground next to the exhaust, and there was a black stain on the curb and grass... it looked like there were bits of soot collecting around the bottom of the curb. The truck was running better though, and I had to get it home one way or another, so we got back in and drove home.

Now, the truck seems to drive better, and there's no more black smoke, save for a tiny bit when dropping the revs in neutral after revving it hard. Also, I don't want to jump to conclusions, but it seems as if the potential valve tick I may have had before is gone. I did want to ask... does anyone think it's likely that the synthetic (I run Chevron gas as well, not sure if it makes a difference...) has finally cleaned out years worth of crap built up in the engine, or am I burning oil or something else equally bad?

Fil

 

[aldive]

With quality synthetic motor oil, one can safely extend OCI.

 

[jimwww]

Ok,, this is what I found out by talking to Mobil about switching:

Switch to synthetic from dino is ok but you 'should' make your first oil change in 2500 miles then every 5000 miles after that as the first batch will 'clean' your engine.. (what ever miles you choose just do the first change and cut it in half) This will really limit your oil filter possibly getting clogged with sludge from the dino..

 

[trucku]

If you really would like some verifiable data on switching to a synthetic join an oil forum.

If you think you have varnish in your engine then use a cleaner.

If you have been changing your oil regularly there would be no reason for sludge and why your engine would not look as good as any synthetic filled. engine.

If your going to 5k intervals I think you should have Oil Analysis to tell you what your oil is doing.

Mobil1 and Pennzoil Platinium have been doing very well. I am reading that lots of people are very happy with PP for cheaper than Mobl1 (verified by analysis).

with regular dino changes I think the transition to synthetic will be seamless.

 

[91explo]

if you have high miles, thats a big change for your engine! Ive honestly heard more don't do its then do's!

 

[Glen4X4]

if you have high miles, thats a big change for your engine! Ive honestly heard more don't do its then do's!

He's right about it being a big change on your motor, if your looking for better protection than regular 10w-30 or which ever weight of oil you preffer, I would reccomend going with Castrol GTX High Mileage oil or Valvoline MAX LIFE Oil, they are both good oils, here is the site for you to read up yourself on the protection. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915476&contentId=7034438 That should work. http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=7

 

[trucku]

These additives which are good for good motors can cause very poor performance in high mileaged vehicles, even to a point where the vehicle stalls and runs like S##t and leaking from oil pan more so then ever, rear seal and front seal leakage..

I have never heard of such a thing.
I don't see how any of the additives packages in a synthetic oil can have an adverse effects on your engine. I don't see how it stall or affect running characteristics.

IF your engine was already running properly and did not have any leaks, You should have no issues.


The only thing I have read about it engines starting to leak because the sludge plugs were eventually cleaned up. The leaks would also include blow by. I think all the bad effects were always experienced on unhealthy engines in the first place.


I would suggest checking out a oil forum where these kinds of subjects are discussed daily by very qualified and knowledgeable guys. You will learn a lot of the things you hear are just wrong.


I went to mobil1 at just over 54k miles. I have have about 75400 miles on my truck now and have had no leaks at all. I am running Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 now. the only difference is truck is less nosier with PP than Mobil1.

 

[trucku]

your right about the debate of changing to to synthetic. Some guys have no issues, while others engines bleed to death.

High mileage would be my suggestion too.

The switch to PP from Mobil1 noticeably quieted down the engine.

I used lucas oil treatment in my engine with the mobil1 and had some issues with oil pressure in winter. During cold starts my dummy guage didn't move until a few minutes after and my mileage suffered. I dumped the whole fill and just went to mobil1 and everything was fine.

I think for such a late start to going to a full synthetic, I would use a high mileage dino and change it often. It will do the same work and be much cheaper. The best exploit of synthetic would be for extend oil changes.

 

[Glen4X4]

Just wanted to let ya'll know I called the local Ford Dealer/service garage and spoke to them and had asked upon this and I used my engine as an example with the miles that or on it and he said going to Valvoline High Mileage Synthetic oil shouldn't hurt it one bit being that its made to go into higher mileage motors.