Can you believe it?

[not turbo]

You didn't mention that it was an auto, the vacume modulator in the trans is blown therefore allowing ATF to be sucked into the engine and related vacume systems.

Yup, auto.

The vacuum modulator....is this a relatively easy fix? (Given that the engine is basically out of the truck now) Or should I just R-n-R the tranny (also a possibility, from the same source as the engine)

 

[JDraper]

Vacuum modulator is a very easy fix. It's external to the transmission. Unbolt old modulator, bolt on new...

 

[not turbo]

Cool, price for the modulator is $20-$40, depending on specifics...any systems or parts need to be purged/replaced because of contamination? I'm thinking like the brakes, etc. Maybe the fuel injectors?

Should I change the fuel regulator, figure it's shot 'cause of the tranny fluid?

thx

 

[mawrazen]

Had the same problem! Bad tranny Molulator Valve.

Yep..most likely candidate. When the diaphragm in the vacuum modulator splits, it pulls tranny fluid into the vacuum system, which promptly dumps it into the motor...

I had a rough running truck, ATF was always low, Oil soo high it was boiling out of the dipstick!

Bought the part and paid a local shop a 100 bucks to install it. My truck has new life and has run much better afterwards.

 

[not turbo]

I've changed the modulator, and am waiting to get a few more dollars to reassemble the engine (I took off the heads to double-check everything)

I'm not too sure about the condition of the valve seals, so I want to change them while it's apart. Could anyone give me some instructions on how to do this?

Pic of the seals (the 12 green things) and 6 rubber-looking other things (what are the two clear plastic tubes in the lower left corner of the bag?)

I know the basics (use the valve spring tool to compress the spring, remove the clips, remove spring, valve should drop out/be easily pulled out) but it's the "remove seals and install new ones" that I'm shaky about.

Any tools? (needle nose pliers??) Anything to install it? Like a dowel, or...?

Oil it before/during/after?

Thx for help!

 

[jeepshop]

The clear plastic tubes go over the valve stems and you push the new seals down over the valve using these to protect the inside surface of the new seal. Be sure to lube the new seals inside, and make sure they are pressed firmly onto the guides or they will come off and you'll have a big oil burner.

 

[not turbo]

So they're kinda like a front seal on an engine? What about those black things, do they belong anywhere?

 

[jeepshop]

More than likely those are injector o-rings. If your engine has a lot of miles it would be a good idea to replace them. If you are not sure how to do it right though, they are best left alone.

 

[jeepshop]

By the way, I use a 1/2" deep socket and gently tap the valve seals down onto the guides.

 

[not turbo]

More than likely those are injector o-rings. If your engine has a lot of miles it would be a good idea to replace them. If you are not sure how to do it right though, they are best left alone.

Oh sure, now you're gonna tease me....are they tricky, or just too complex? Might I break something that's expensive?

 

[not turbo]

By the way, I use a 1/2" deep socket and gently tap the valve seals down onto the guides.

Good idea...I did the first two tonight, and hope to get the rest done tomorrow after work. Slow and methodical, that's the way I'm doing this project...

 

[not turbo]

Update:

Replaced the vacuum modulator with no problems either before or after...

Replaced valve seals (shoulda' done that when I first changed the heads; the EBay feedback was 99% positive, only bad feedbacks to this item/company was along the lines of "valve seals failed within X weeks of installation" :scratch: )...

Replaced the fuel press. regulator with no problems* either before or after...

Truck runs great now, no losing tranny fluid, no excess "oil" in the engine and two "problems" heretofore more-or-less unnoticed are fixed:

There was always a big puff of bluish smoke when first starting, now there is nada, just a healthy VROOOM! (valve seals must have fixed this!)

And until it warmed up, it was tricky to keep running--always had to play footsie with the gas pedal. Now I just turn the key (don't even have to pre-press the gas) and it starts right up and idles as per OEM. (Fuel pressure reg. probably fixed this.)

Heh heh heh....time for a long-overdue ROADTRIP!!!!

Gotta work out some dents now, always keepin' busy with the Bronc...

Thanks everyone for the help!










*note to self: be sure to lube the O-ring before installation...:bsnicker: