Can you put a 10" sub woofer in the stock location? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Can you put a 10" sub woofer in the stock location?




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I'm not sure what size the enclosure in the plans is but if it comes up shy of that 1.1 you can add polyfill to it.
 






From what I have read the largest enclosure that is "stealth" was just over 0.7 cu ft. Mine will probably be a small ammount larger given the flange thickness, but I doubt it would get up to 0.8 cu ft.

Unlike most people building these enclosures, I am a mechanical engineer and use Solid Works for a living. You bet I will be constructing a solid model of this enclosure and know percisly (limited only by my manufactuing skils) what the volume of the finished enclosure will be.
 






Mtx makes a box and comes with a 10" sub that mounts right there with a nich cloth covering so it looks stock but packs a serious punch. I have it installed in my 2001 explorer running a kenwood 600w amp to it.i can post pics if you want to see.
 






About how much does the box run? From what I have seen it seems that most of the vehicle specific boxes are made of gold plated titainium.

Might as well post some pictures either way.
 






Or you can make your own box
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B-S6rUG7e2O0MUMxQ2tCQ09LTms

Heres my 12" sub:

IMG_1483.jpg

I'm trying to do this exactly, any links to your build?
 






It seems to me that one of the biggest limitations is the selection of the sub woofer itself. Appearantly there is very close to enough space to mak a 12" diameter woofer fit, but the depth of the woofer seems to be the primary limitation.

I have been kicking around the idea of making an enclosure very much like the one in this picture:

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B-S6rUG7e2O0MUMxQ2tCQ09LTms


IMG_1483.jpg



but instead of mounting the woofer directly to the surface like this one, make a ring that is about 5/8"-3/4" thick. The ID of the rings would be just big enough to clear the area that the woofer requires to mount in. The OD of the ring would be a bit larger than the woofer. Maybe even as large as my cover plate (described below) will allow.

Now take that ring and glue it to a cover plate. This cover plate would be large enough to cover the factory cutout. It would be shaped to fit the contour of the wheelwell. It would run all the way to the back piller. From the floor to the top edge of the wheel well.

The cover plate/ring assembly would bolt on to the enclosure sandwiching the wheel well plastic in between them. Obviously some of the wheelwell plastic wil need to be trimmed to clear the OD of the ring, but all of that will be covered by the cover plate. The Woofer would then mount on to the cover plate. This will now give the woofer depth anothe 1 1/8" - 1 1/2" of depth. This design will also slightly increase the cabinet volume.

The final product would not officially be a stealth box because it will stick out of the stock location a little bit, but it will keep the sub enclosure in the stock area while increasing the sub enclosure volume and give you a nick cover plate to finish the area up with.

I am going to build this box......... someday! I will be populating it with a 10" sub though. I like the punch of a 10" better than the flutter of the 12" I have right now.

This will be my first sub box I have ever built, so hopefully I don't have too much to learn.
 






That's funny $hit. I just realized that this is my own thread! Even better, my wife was watching me type the last response and said "lets do this today".
 












So the speaker box in that plan has an internal volume of 0.5405 cubic feet and a mounting depth of 5.625". This seems to be right in line with the specs for the couple 10" subs that I have looked at. I think I am still going to tweak the design a bit to make the second layer of the front panel fit just right in to the stock sub panel location. That will slightly increase the volume of the encolsure and increase the mounting depth of the sub by about 5/8".
 












Awesome to see you making the box :thumbsup:

I might add that using a 12" sub might be overkill considering how limited you are to the actual internal volume of the box. It simply isn't enough for the size of a 12" sub. 10" would probably be the max for this type of box

And P.S. that box design writeup wasn't mine, I just found it and reposted it
 






I made 2 boxes today (and yesterday). One very close to the design in the plan. Then I noticed that there was a good chunk of extra room around the box that wasn't being used so I made another one that used that room. I removed a little bit of the length from the second one to make more room for an amplifier. The second box should have a volume of about .6 cubic feet. The first one is all glued together, the second one is assembled and waiting to be glued. Now I need the woofer.

The first one will be installed in my wifes 96 Explorer. I guess I need to get an amp for hers also.

The second one will be for my 97 Monsterneer. I'll take some notes on the parts of it so that I can pass the plans on to the rest of the Explorer world.

I guess I better go order the woofer now.
 












I have to add this to the to-do list, looks great!
 






The Pyle amplifier was not compatable with my sub woofer and my desire to drive it to its capacity so I returned it and got this amplifier:


I finished up the sub enclosure modeled after that writeup and tested it using the amplifier. Once I got it optimised I decided to connect the new amp to the old 12" and apply the smae tuning techniques......... OK so now I am looking at how to get he 12" sub in there.

I am going to put the 10" in my wifes explorer and use the original amplifier I was using to drive the 12" on it. I am going to use the new amplifier to drive the old 12" in a new housing that I am designing. It is a bit more amplifier than what the 12" is rated for but if I blow it I already have the replacment selected ;)

So I will have this amplifier: http://www.bossaudio.com/auto/cxx502/
Driving this sub woofer: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r1s412
In a to be designed housing with approximatly 1 cubic foot of internal volume.

I think that is not going to fit inside of the fender well so I am thinking that I will cut a big a$$ hole thru the plastic on the side and just try to keep it as shallow as possible. I have been taking plenty of pictures so I can do 3 writups. One for the first one I made. Another for the second one I made but will not be using and a third one for the 12".

I think I will look at some specs for some other 12" subs and see if I can find some that don't require a full cubic foot of volume.
 












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