CEL Code Reading Help! VIDEO INSIDE!

[coheed]

Wow. you're guys' help is amazing! Glad to have such an outpouring of information. I love this forum!!!


Now, does that mean that both my 327 and 332 codes are related? They both might be caused by an EGR issue?

And if that is correct, first step would be to check all of the vacuum lines, correct?

 

[MrShorty]

Yeah, the 327 and 332 are most likely related.

Where you're getting a KOEO 327, and there's no engine vacuum when the engine isn't running, I don't know that I'd check the vacuum lines first (though it couldn't help). As I noted, KOEO codes almost have to be electrical: KOEO 327 is most likely an electrical fault in the PFE sensor circuit (quite possibly the PFE itself, as they have a reputation of failing).

 

[coheed]

And that's the little white connection thingy on the EGR valve, right?

 

[MrShorty]

I'm sorry, I don't know. My '92 doesn't have EGR, so I haven't actually seen the EGR components on a 1st gen. A wiring diagram could help identify wire colors, and that is often enough to identify connectors/components. If you don't have a print manual, the Chilton's DIY manual stuff/wiring diagrams is availabe at autozone.com under vehicle repair guides. There are enough people on this site who've dealt with the PFE sensor that they should be able to help identify components once they see this.

 

[coheed]

Hey gang, will doing a KO ENGINE RUNNING test help isolate my problem?

anybody have a link to that test?

 

[MrShorty]

I know my notes on pulling EEC-IV codes thread describes the KOER test, and I was reasonably sure that BrooklynBays EEc-IV code list thread described the KOER test. These threads are both stickied in the EEC-IV forum.

I don't know that I see any new information from the KOER test (though it wouldn't hurt to do it, if only as practice). A KOEO 327 pretty definitively points to an electrical fault in the PFE sensor circuit.

At this point, I'd get a wiring diagram and a multimeter and see if I could figure it out. I'd probably start by disconnecting the PFE sensor and testing Vref at the PFE sensor KOEO. If that gives me 5.0 V, then disconnect the 60 pin PCM connector, and check for continuity of the other two leads from the PCM to the PFE. If that all checks out ok, then I'd replace the PFE sensor.