Check Engine light - engine rough! Help on getting codes!

[Webster3]

I'm currently at work but on my way here my check engine light came on and the engine started running rough. It seemed to be ok while at idle, but got rough as I gave it gas. There was a slight loss of power I think as well.

The check engine light came on, then went off for a few minutes and then came back on for the duration of the ride. When I got it here I shut it off and started it back up and I could hear nothing wrong at idle.

Keep in mind that it is about 11 degrees here in NJ and we just went through a huge snow storm.

Here's the big question: I am at work and I cannot find a volt-meter anywhere. I'm looking at this diagram at http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/ and trying to see if I can just use the "testlight" method with just a wire and then read the codes when they blink the "check engine" light?

Or do I HAVE to use a test light?

I really want to figure this out before I have to drive it home... if its a part I can pick up I may be able to have someone drive me to a shop and then fix it here. Help!!

Thanks!!

Ed

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

No - you can do the paperclip method OR take a trip to Autozone - but stick with the paperclip/wire - go out and do it now - tell your boss you need to step out for a few and then come back, do a search for what you found. If ya can't find it, post back in this thread - you know how we do here - we'll help!

 

[Webster3]

Looking at this diagram under the "hookup" section: http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html

Do I jump the paperclip from 2 to 4 or from the "Self Test Input" to either 2 or 4?

Thanks!

Ed

No - you can do the paperclip method OR take a trip to Autozone - but stick with the paperclip/wire - go out and do it now - tell your boss you need to step out for a few and then come back, do a search for what you found. If ya can't find it, post back in this thread - you know how we do here - we'll help!

 

[MrShorty]

And once you've jumpered the STI to signal return, the codes will come out as flashes of the CEL, in the exact same fashion as sweeps of the voltmeter needle or flashes of a test light.

 

[Webster3]

Ok, the paperclip method worked like a charm, thanks!

So this is what I got on the Key On Engine Off test... the dash was a pause between the flashes:

1-6-1-1-4-3-3-5-1-1-6-1-1-4-3-3-5

I'm guessing it flashes everything twice, so 1-6-1-1-4-3-3-5

There is no 161 or 611 code that I can see, so if its only 3 digit codes I should be looking at I'm guessing either of theses codes:

114 (O,R) IAT sensor out of range -

335 (O) EGR feedback signal is/was out of range - EVR or PFE

Can anyone tell me if I'm on the right track?

Ed

 

[MrShorty]

It looks like you missed the initial flash for the 116 code, so add that one to your list.
It also looks like you didn't wait long enough after the second repeat for the separator pulse and continuous memory codes (or are you not giving us the CM codes because it gave 111 for CM?).

114 and 116 are usually a result of running the test on a cold engine. Warm the engine up and repeat the KOEO test to see that these codes go away.

KOEO 335 has to be an electrical fault (so it can't be the EGR valve itself). If you don't see a break in the wiring between the computer and the PFE/DPFE sensor, then that sensor probably needs to be replaced (it's fairly common).

 

[Webster3]

So with that 335 code, do you think I am at risk to break down on my way home or is that something I can drive 20 miles with in freezing weather?

Ed

 

[Webster3]

I did some checking and it looks like this probably won't cause me to break down on my way home (I hope).

So now I just need to know if the Pressure Feedback Sensor is something I can replace myself? Anyone know where it is and if its a hard job to do?? (If it really is the sensor and not the valve).

Thanks!

Ed

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

AKA DPFE - Not sure on early 4.0s but on my 96 it's mounted to the side of the intake, immediately below the IAC - easy to replace (two mounting bolts) but make sure to replace the hoses going to it as well (they're gererally 2 different size hoses)

Prior to me finding this wonderful site - I once paid 150 to have the diagnostic done and dpfe replaced at a shop! DOH!

 

[Webster3]

Autozone has the part as being UNDER HOOD, CENTER, REAR ENGINE AREA, MOUNTED ON REAR PASSENGER SIDE OF ENGINE


I still can't find the dang thing! Can anyone tell me if its visible from the top or bottom? Is it nearby something? It looks like it would be easy to identify visually from the picture: http://catservices.wrencheadpro.com/SmartPages/partinfo/KEM/130-313.jpg

My Hayes manual seems to have pictures and descriptions only for the 96 and newer models.

Ed

 

[Webster3]

I'm still not finding this valve... or the sensor for that matter. Can anyone help??

Ed