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check engine light

meterman1976

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 9, 2008
Messages
173
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City, State
spokane, washinton
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT
ok so my check engine light comes on about a mile after its driven, if i dont drive it for a few days it may not come on for 10-15 miles... but it also goes out when im driving at times.. i went to have the codes read, and they said they couldnt get any codes off it....

any suggestions?

oh but its great when i go off roading it stays off..... so maybe its telling me to stay opff roading, maybe a mind of its own..
 



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Here is a link on how to pull the codes without a code reader.
 






ok thanks, but now remembering all they told me, the couldnt find the single wilre plug they need to get the codes.... so i dont know if its been cut or what has happened to it.
 






How hard did they look? It wouldn't take a whole lot for the STI connector to get separated from the self-test connector and stay buried under the wiring and such in that part of the engine bay -- especially if it's been a long time since anyone pulled codes. Depending on who you took it to, I could easily see some people not taking the time or effort to properly look for the connector.
 






It could be alot of things. If you get some O2 codes, check for a vacuum leak, Clean MAF, Air filter, and IAC. Unfortunately you are probably due for some O2 sensors.
 


















On my 94 EB EX (261+ k miles) the plug to read the codes is located on a clip on the back of the under hood relay/fuse box. (passenger side)
 






oh sweet thanks i never saw that one.... so whats the one on the other side, it looks the same except it doesnt have the single wire?
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The one on the drivers side is probably the ABS connector,
Does it have a red cap on it?
 






no it has no cap or anything its just laying there.... so absent connector, whats it for? absent brakes? have a problem with them too.
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ABS Antilock braking system....

My 94 it is located drivers side mid wheel well, right there on top
 






ok went and had it tested came back with a code of 111 a no fault code they said, but the light is on.... the rest it for me and drove about a mile and it came back on.
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so i didnt trust that reading and went and had another one and it came back with 3 faults.... code 412 not controling rpm.... code 172 hego (HO2O) sensor fault/ lean ... and 538 insufficent rpm change... atleast thats the codes and the meaning they gave me at shucks... im figuring the secount one is my o2 sencer.. any help on the other ones..
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Which test(s) did the 172 come from (see my "notes on pulling EEC-IV codes in the EEC-IV fourm for a description of the three types of codes). The 412 and 538 can only come from the KOER test.

KOER 412 is often more symptomatic than diagnostic. It simply means that the engine wasn't running smoothly enough during the KOER test. I've actually gotten this code on one occasion by turning the steering wheel during the KOER test. The additional and variable load the power steering pump put on the engine was enough to trigger this code. Where you have other codes to work with, I'd ignore this one.

KOER 538 almost always indicates operator error during the KOER test (specifically, you neglected to perform the "goose" test). At the appropriate time, the computer expects you to "goose" the throttle, and this code indicates that the computer didn't see it. See my notes on pulling EEC-IV codes thread for more details.

172 can be either KOER or CM or both. Where the CEL has been coming on, I would assume that it is at least showing up in the CM codes, but I also don't like to assume these things. A KOER 172 can sometimes be a result of operator error. The O2 sensor needs to be preheated immediately before the test. If this wasn't done and you got a KOER 172, I'd repeat the test (making sure to preheat the O2 sensor) and make sure it's a real code.

"By the book," the first step in diagnosing O2 sensor codes is to test fuel pressure (see the fuel pressure test mini-diary in the Under the Hood forum). The other place to start is to check the wiring between the sensor and the PCM. The PCM can't usually tell a difference between a faulty sensor and a bad connection.
 






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