Clutch install - Shop or DIY?

[jumpn4jesus]

So, I need to replace my clutch. I have been trying to decide whether or not to do it myself or pay someone else to do it. I only have myself to do the install so it would take longer. I naturally want to do the job myself cause it's cheaper, but I was looking under there yesterday and it's kinda intimidating!
I don't want to kill myself in the process, cause the only place I could do it is my slanted drive way! Plus it's supposed to rain this week.

Should I find, somehow, a place to do the job my self or just pay to have it done. It would only take one day that way.

or :thumbdwn:?

I called Mr.Transmission and they quoted me $375 for just labor. I have all the parts. I still have to do some more looking around.
What would be the price to pay for install???

Thanks in advance,
Jumpn

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

I don't know anything about clutches, I guess anything is possible to do yourself. Just depends on the time and effort you are willing to put into it.

I would go to an auto store and pick up a Hayne's manual for your explorer.

It will have step by step instructions with pictures. Read this book and it will give you some sense on what is all involved in replacing the clutch.

 

[jumpn4jesus]

I already have a haynes.

 

[Evil Eye]

If you have never done something like this before, I wouldn't think that now is the time to jump in (sorry, bad joke) to this. If you had someone around who could help that is familiar with the process, I wouldn't be as discouraging. Good luck with your decision, but safety is more of a concern than saving a few dollars.

PS. That sounds like a decent price for a clutch replacement.

 

[jumpn4jesus]

I've installed clutches but never on a 4x4. Just cars.

I just don't want to risk killing my self seeing as I'm just going of to UTI now!

 

[briwayjones]

Seeing as how you're not familiar with it and you only have your slanted driveway to work on I would say get someone to do it. The cost would probably pay for itself verses the trouble that it might be doing it for the first time in a poor environment. Are you also going to replace the slave cylinder and throwout bearing?

 

[Evil Eye]

The 4X4 isn't much different from a car; you just add the t-case into the mix. I would think that if the throwout bearing isn't being replaced, why even do it...

 

[jumpn4jesus]

Are you also going to replace the slave cylinder and throwout bearing?

I'm not gonna do the slave cylinder cause I just bought the truck and it's very new looking.

Isn't the throwout bearing part of the clutch kit?

 

[briwayjones]

It's a part of some clutch kits I think. I don't know if it's a part of all. I would change the slave cylinder/throw-out bearing also. It's a weak part of the manual transmission and pretty cheap insurance. It would be a pain to have them go out long before you need another clutch and have to drop the tranny again to change them.

 

[jumpn4jesus]

ok.

My clutch come with a pilot bearing and release bearing. Is that the same.
looks similar in the box?

I got it from advance. It's a 7 piece perfection clutch kit.
So a flywheel is like $100 and a throwout bearing is $50? So another flippin pay check down the drain. Or so it feels!

Gotta pay to play they always say.

 

[91exploreron37]

The release bearing is the same thing as a throwout bearing(most clutch kits come with them) and the pilot bearing fits in the flywheel and the transmission's input shaft rides in it. The slave cylinders on these transmissions usually tend to go bad fairly often and as was stated earlier, you dont want to have to drop the tranny again to replace it.
Also most of the slave cylinders come with a throwout bearing already installed on it. Mine did so I just saved the one that came with my clutch kit.

And if you have the time, it may be cheaper just to have your old flywheel turned.

 

[jumpn4jesus]

Well, the clutch went out cause it got oil in it. I believe. So, having it turned wouldnt help would it?

 

[91exploreron37]

Uh oh how did oil get on the clutch?

 

[jumpn4jesus]

well, similar to the picture as your avatar. I hit a mud hole and stopped instantly. When I got out. It was slipping. So I assume it happened when I hit it.


Here's a video of me going into it. You can really see how fast I stop!

[/QUOTE]

 

[EXPLODER69]

slave

You have to replace the slave. It's just part of the process as you will find out if you DIY. I had Clutch Doctors do mine for me. They originally quoted me $375, but we wheeled & dealed on some of the costs & I got a $100 off of that but I bought the slave though them. Over all I saved....

I was going to DIY, but too many projects were getting neglected & it's cheaper to stay married....:

 

[stuckaholic]

the cluth isnt really tht hard to change at all! and since your on a slanted drivway it should be even easier. take all your tranny bolts out and take your started off. wen the tranny is free from the engine use a jack and jack the tranny up till all the weight is off the input shaft and slide it backwards. of course you have to take the crossmemeber and drivshafts off. but just slide the tranny back far enought to get in and change the bearings and clutch and pressure plate. put the new stuff in and slide it forward again. its fairly self explanitory once you get the tranny back. after you do it youll be surprised to find out tht it wasnt to hard at all. and theres no reason you cant get it done in one day without having to fork out $400.

 

[91exploreron37]

Yea you probably burnt it up getting out. I thought your rear main seal was leaking oil onto the clutch which isnt good. But yea you can still have the flywheel turned(resurfaced) or you can buy a brand new one, I was having a hard time finding a place that could do it in my area so I just bought a new one from NAPA.

 

[jumpn4jesus]

the cluth isnt really tht hard to change at all! and since your on a slanted drivway it should be even easier. take all your tranny bolts out and take your started off. wen the tranny is free from the engine use a jack and jack the tranny up till all the weight is off the input shaft and slide it backwards. of course you have to take the crossmemeber and drivshafts off. but just slide the tranny back far enought to get in and change the bearings and clutch and pressure plate. put the new stuff in and slide it forward again. its fairly self explanitory once you get the tranny back. after you do it youll be surprised to find out tht it wasnt to hard at all. and theres no reason you cant get it done in one day without having to fork out $400.

Arg. I guess I will do it myself then. haha:
THANK YOU! I didn't want to spend $400 for something I know I can do. I just don't really wanna kill my self.

So should I/do I need to jack the back end up? Obviously I will be chalking the wheels well and supporting it.

So I need:
Clutch kit
Flywheel (new or resurfaced)
Slave cylinder
Pilot/Release Bearing

Tools:
Jack stands/vehicle supports
Jack
Wrenches etc.

Is that it as far as parts? Any special tools required?

Anyone know the biggest size wrench/socket needed for the job?
Don't wanna get into it and have to run to the hardware store!

Thanks in advance.
I hope to get to working on it Wednesday night so I can have it done before it rains next and by church on Sunday!

Thanks a TON for being helping hands to people like myself.

God Bless,
Jumpn

 

[91exploreron37]

The first time I did mine I had a 3in body lift and 31s so I only had to raise the front of the truck up a little to get under there. But now its no problem

Theres a special tool to remove the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder but a flat head screwdriver works so much better, just push the white sleeve all the way in and the line pops out. The belive the biggest will be a 18mm for the tranny mount and crossmember. The rear driveshaft is a 12pt 12mm. If your removing the t-case then there are 5 13mm bolts holding it in(the one on the bottom can only be removed completly with a wrench.

The transmission is also held in by 8 13mm bolts(two on the bottom, two on each left snd right side and two on the top) and if you dont have a body lift then sitting the rear of the tranny on a jack(with the crossmeber removed) and lowering it a little will help you get to the top two bolts.

I dont know if you have to remove the stock y-pipe to get the transmission out, I have heard of some people saying the had to and others saying they didnt, I dont have a factory exhaust so I cant help you there.

 

[91exploreron37]

Also the shifter is held in by a stud with a 17mm? nut on one side. You have to unscrew the nut from the front and screw it onto the back of the stud and when you tighten it it pulls the stud from the shifter. For me the hardest part when removing the tranny is getting that stupid hydro line out the slave cylinder. Also when you go to replace the slave cylinder, which is held in by two 10mm bolts, fill the new one with brake fluid first and if you cant then when you get everything back together remove the cap from the clutch fluid resevior and crack the bleeder screw until fluid runs out but make sure you keep an eye on the resevior and dont let it run dry.
And also make sure the clutch disc is centered on the flywheel perfectly or the transmission is not going back on no matter how hard you try.
Im sure theres a little more I forgot but if you have any questions just ask.