Clutch questions

[94_XLT]

since yesterday when I drove my truck I noticed that the clutch is starting to slip but only under full throttle. Is there any chance its my clutch fluid being to low....anything other then the clutch?

Also with the clutch fluid...I know I should use brake fluid but should I use DOT 3 or 4?

 

[Michiganbear]

fluid is DOT 3 brake fluid. I dont think DOT 4 will hurt it tho.

low fluid will cause incomplete disengagement, (wont fully release), but NOT slipping. the only thing keeping the clutch engaged is the pressure applied by the springs in the pressure plate (the pressure you feel when you press on the pedal).

your clutch is either worn, or contaminated with oil/brake fluid (from the clutch slave cylinder)

 

[94_XLT]

Alright I will ask the previous owner (my aunt) about when they replaced the clutch...if its not the clutch though how do I clean it out?

 

[Michiganbear]

also find out if they had the flywheel turned when the clutch and pressure plate were replaced. (notice I said clutch and pressure plate, I always replace as a pair)

even if it looks ok (no gouges, scores, ect), it may still cause accellerated wear on the new parts.

 

[94_XLT]

also find out if they had the flywheel turned when the clutch and pressure plate were replaced. (notice I said clutch and pressure plate, I always replace as a pair)

even if it looks ok (no gouges, scores, ect), it may still cause accellerated wear on the new parts.

Alright I will when I see them....
One other thing...the clutch seems to slip more when the car is cold then when its warm. what could that be about?

 

[94_XLT]

Alright...I have noticed something odd...it slips realllly bad when the car is cold...after driving for a little bit the slip gets less and less (I think by the time i had driven for 2 hours doing errands the clutch was not slipping at all or veeery little.) Any ideas?

 

[Michiganbear]

well, as the parts warm up, they do expand. your clutch may be right at that point where when everything is warm, its tight, but when it cools off, and the parts shrink (its only a couple thousandths of an inch), they slip.

 

[94_XLT]

greaaaaaaat......do I need a new clutch or should I baby the clutch to the summer?

 

[Michiganbear]

well, this would be MY choice right now, so I can't speak for you..

since I live in the Great White Northwest of Michigan (Traverse City), and currently have 2+ feet of standing snow (and thats after it packs over time, some partial melting, ect) in the middle of my yard (where I would be changing a clutch), I would baby it..

really the only thing that will get hurt more by driving it is the flywheel (I assume you would replace both the clutch and pressure plate). you will also need to get the flywheel surfaced or checked, unless you want to end up replacing the clutch again in short order.

I once swapped a clutch/pressure plate on an old 72 Mercury Capri I had, and even thou I had everything adjusted right, I still killed that clutch in less than a year. I can only attribute that to the fact I didn't pull the flywheel and have it checked. it wasn't grooved, and didn't show signs that it needed attention, but that little 100 hp 2.0L 4 banger still cooked it quickly.

 

[marragtop]

You should consider replacing the slave cylinder while you are doing the clutch since you will the trans out.

 

[flamingX]

Slave

Ya! if your Slave is internal (some of the older ones have the slave on the outside) replace it while you have it out. I had an '02 Ranger that had the clutch replaced just before I bought it In '05 (ya, the previous owner didn't know how to drive it). The slave went 6 months later, Cost me $900 to replace a $25 part, it wasnt covered by warranty (but brake slaves are, I'm still pissed about that.)

 

[Michiganbear]

You should consider replacing the slave cylinder while you are doing the clutch since you will the trans out.

absolutely correct.. replace anything that my be questionable or even just pretty cheap while you have it out. you will be better off in the end.

some things to think about doing while the clutch is being done:

1 U-joints (drive shaft(s) have to come off anyway)
2 check starter/ring gear (flywheel will be accessible for the ring gear, starter comes out anyway)
3 rear main seal (not sure if it can be replaced in vehicle on these, but worth a look anywho)
4 shifter rebuild (its cheap, can be done with trans in car, but why not do it now)
5 replace the bore plugs on trans (in top cover, they tend to leak over the years).

I am sure there are a lot of other small things too.

 

[94_XLT]

Alright ill have to figure out how much all this will cost since its going to the shop for the clutch since I have no way to drop the transmission out. I'll get my parents to talk to the mechanic. <_< They don't trust me when I say lets get this all replaced >_>