Converting the old XLS to 2wd after an accident

[BigTex]

Well, actually the accident was back in 2013. And among many other systems & modules, it wiped out the AWD system. I spent some time getting it back on the road all legal and such...replaced the fried 4X4 control module (expensive!). AWD worked for a short time, then fried again due to electrical damage/issues from the impact. It still drove fine, just no AWD. Apparently the AWD system defaults to RWD only when damaged. And it's been fine for twelve (12) years and many more miles.

However now the old XLS has developed a bunch of rumbly/bearing/cv joint annoying noises from the front end. I've spent a few hours pulling and prying on cv axles, listening to bearings, and generally looking for an obvious problem. Nothing! Everything is tight, quiet and where it should be. I think it's the bearings but everybody knows how bad cv joints can send out lots of different symptoms. But I think it's front bearings. Why?
Why?
I have been driving for twelve (12) years, in RWD, pushing the entire front drivetrain. Could the cv axles really be worn out? Well I guess they could be, because even though not under power, the cv joints, front R&P and front drive shaft have all still been spinning. But I still think it's front bearings. And I'm not about to replace front cv axles that I'm not even using!

Then I thought, maybe I shouldn't be pushing/spinning all that front drivetrain for no reason. It's probably costing me a bunch of gas mileage! Right? I still think it's the front bearings (did I say that?), so I'm going to tear into it to see if the bearings need replaced. And while I'm in there, I plan to pull the cv shaft and disassemble it and use the outer axle stub/cup & nut to keep the bearing assemblies together in the hubs. Then remove the front diff and driveshaft that I'm not using anyway. I figure it should save several hundred pounds of weight and a bunch of rolling resistance.

Does anyone see a problem with this conversion? Would anyone be interested in a slightly used front diff and drive line?

 

[wollimann]

Constant Velocity Joint: Service and Repair — 2002 Ford Explorer 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2002 Ford Explorer 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E.

charm.li

I think the outer stub/cup must be grinded in two parts and balanced after that.
Or a mashineshop do this part.
That's the only issue that you will run through.
The transfer case didn't know if there is a front differential or not.

 

[BigTex]

Constant Velocity Joint: Service and Repair — 2002 Ford Explorer 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2002 Ford Explorer 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E.

charm.li

View attachment 463639

I think the outer stub/cup must be grinded in two parts and balanced after that.
Or a mashineshop do this part.
That's the only issue that you will run through.
The transfer case didn't know if there is a front differential or not.

Thank you for the heads-up on that one! I didn't intend to put my metal chop saw to work on this little project. But it should make quick work of chopping off the portion of the cup housing the actual cv joint...leaving just the flange part (indicated by the arrow in the diagram). With a bit of grinding to clean it up, no balancing should be required with very little rotating mass.

 

[BigTex]

Constant Velocity Joint: Service and Repair — 2002 Ford Explorer 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2002 Ford Explorer 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E.

charm.li

View attachment 463639

I think the outer stub/cup must be grinded in two parts and balanced after that.
Or a mashineshop do this part.
That's the only issue that you will run through.
The transfer case didn't know if there is a front differential or not.

Update or rather, Correction to my previous reply. No cutting, grinding or balancing is required. The outer rzeppa joint is easily disassembled, and it IS Definitely removable from the half shaft.

 

[wollimann]

Did you still do that now? For my understanding the circlip can not be released?

 

[BigTex]

Did you still do that now? For my understanding the circlip can not be released?

Yes they can, the circlip that retains the shaft inside the outer cv joint is similar to the circlip on the end of the inner cv joint stub. You know how you gently pry or pop out the inner cv out of the differential (inside actually the axle gear) to remove the half shaft? You are compressing that circlip into it's grove and pulling out through the axle gear. You do the same thing with the outer cv joint. However you put it in a vise and tap the shaft out, the circlip compresses into it's grove and slides out. The opposite procedure is how they are assembled...since you obviously can't install the circlip after the shaft is inserted into the cv joints internal race.

That documentation is completely incorrect on the 6. Note... They possibly meant to say that the rzeppa cv joint is not really serviceable like the Tri-pod cv joints are. While they can be disassembled, cleaned and inspected, they are normally a replacement item when they wear. But they absolutely can be separated from the half shaft.

 

[TechGuru]

I plan to pull the cv shaft and disassemble it and use the outer axle stub/cup & nut to keep the bearing assemblies together in the hubs.

This is totally not necessary.
The 2WD models use the exact same hubs with no axle.
These front hubs are designed to stay together without a axle and nut.