Coolant in the Exhaust

[DeepEmissions]

So, as stated in the title, I seem to have coolant coming into the exhaust (I think).
I'm not sure if it is going straight into the Exhaust, or into the combustion chamber. The truck does run rough at operating temperature.
I can open the overflow tank and see bubbling during vehicle operation and after turning the truck off.

Other than a blown head gasket, which I seriously hope it isn't, what other causes may allow coolant into the exhaust?

If it is a blown head gasket, what am I looking at as far as repair?
Should I change my chain guides or any other PM items??

I'm seriously upset about this, I had planned on selling it and getting a new(er) Explorer, or even a car.
There's no way I can sell it now, knowing it has this new issue.

 

[lobo411]

Other than a blown head gasket, which I seriously hope it isn't, what other causes may allow coolant into the exhaust

There's nothing else...classic head gasket symptoms. Sounds like the gasket is pretty close to blowing completely too. I suppose you could try pulling the plugs to see if they look steam cleaned, but when your symptoms are so obvious...I'd say it's a waste of time.

The gasket is not hard to fix...just time consuming (1-2 days...more if you need any machine shop work). But that's on an OHV. You could try selling it as a fixer upper.

 

[DeepEmissions]

The gasket is not hard to fix...just time consuming (1-2 days...more if you need any machine shop work). But that's on an OHV. You could try selling it as a fixer upper.

What about other PM issues to do while the head is off?
Should I only worry about the blown gasket and leave the "good" head alone?

If it's the Passenger side how much of a pain is it going to be?
I'm sure that'll require pulling the motor since the passenger side timing chain is on the rear of the engine.

 

[drdoom]

I think you'll just need a gasket set for the intake too.

 

[lobo411]

What about other PM issues to do while the head is off?
Should I only worry about the blown gasket and leave the "good" head alone?

If it's the Passenger side how much of a pain is it going to be?
I'm sure that'll require pulling the motor since the passenger side timing chain is on the rear of the engine.

Do you have the SOHC? I have the OHV and can only speak to that engine, but for the OHV you don't need to pull the engine. I wouldn't just do one side in either event--you've done 90% of the work already so it's better to be safe than sorry.

drdoom is right about the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower). You're probably better off getting a complete upper engine gasket set.

When I did my head gasket, I took the heads/valves to a machine shop for testing and to have a valve job done/new valve stem seals installed. That might be overkill for you since you want to sell it.

It would be smart to check the water pump gasket and the front timing chain cover for leaks, but leave them alone if they're OK. Again, maybe overkill since you want to sell.

 

[DeepEmissions]

Yes I do have the SOHC, I've seen a couple posts where the person removed the engine to do the head gaskets.
Honestly it'd probably make the job a whole lot easier, but pulling an engine is no easy task either..

 

[2000StreetRod]

replacing head gaskets

It is not necessary to remove the engine to replace either head gasket on your vehicle. However, replacing the camshaft timing cassette on the passenger side does require either removing the engine or removing the transmission and working under the vehicle in a fairly tight spot between the block and the firewall. Without the OTC 6488 timing tool kit it may be difficult to loosen/tighten the passenger side camshaft sprocket retaining bolt due to the short clearance between it and the firewall. Head bolts and a head gasket are not inexpensive and the head bolts are torque-to-yield and should not be reused. Since you plan to sell the vehicle I suggest only fixing what's broken.

 

[DeepEmissions]

Thanks [MENTION=111113]2000StreetRod[/MENTION]
Wouldn't I need to remove the cassette to remove the head, no matter which side?? Doesn't the cam chain go through the head?

 

[2000StreetRod]

remove the camshaft sprocket

The camshafts chain goes thru the head but it is not necessary to remove the cassette to remove the head. You just remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt, remove the sprocket from the chain, tie the chain in place using a cable tie so it won't drop into the block, and then remove the head. It's much easier with two people, one to hold the chain vertically out of the way as the head is lifted up. With the 2004(?) and later engines there is a casting change reducing the clearance and making it nearly impossible to remove/install the left cassette without first removing the head. However, the new cassettes use a circlip pivot pin instead of a pressed pivot pin.

So if the old cassette can be extracted by forcing it out (damaging it) the replacement cassette can be disassembled by removing the pivot pin, installed in pieces, and then reinserting the pivot pin and circlip. Its an awkward, tedious process but saves the cost of a head gasket and head bolts.

 

[koda2000]

I think you need to ask yourself if your truck is worth repairing. As it is now it's worth maybe $500-$600 (probably less). Repaired maybe $1500-$1700. Unless you plan on doing the repairs yourself, you could buy another one in better shape for that.

 

[DeepEmissions]

Thanks again [MENTION=111113]2000StreetRod[/MENTION] [MENTION=186147]koda2000[/MENTION], doing the repairs myself isn't an issue, I do have a couple interested buyers... IF I repair the head gasket, they'll pay me my asking price.

I guess I can't complain too much, the truck has been fun to work on, even though I've replaced almost everything attached to the front of the engine.
Paid $1900 for it a lil over 4 years ago and clocked over 80K miles on the dash. All in all, not bad.

 

[J_C]

I think you need to ask yourself if your truck is worth repairing. As it is now it's worth maybe $500-$600 (probably less). Repaired maybe $1500-$1700. Unless you plan on doing the repairs yourself, you could buy another one in better shape for that.

I didn't see the total mileage posted but isn't that awfully low for a FL vehicle that may have little to no rust if the only thing wrong is a ~ $1K head gasket job?

In a lot of areas in the country prices aren't as low as they seem to be in your location. Inputting my vehicle specs which are nothing special, typical XLT options and towing package results in a private party sale value of $3456.

I might be able to buy some beater that's filthy, dinged, body panel rust and in poor mechanical condition at an auction for $1500 but anywhere else I'd be looking at $2500 or more and that with higher mileage. Around here I can't buy anything in equal or better shape for $3K. Then again I place a lot of value on low 100K mileage on my engine given it's SOHC.

 

[DeepEmissions]

[MENTION=116843]J_C[/MENTION] my truck is at about 194,000 miles, frankly I'm a little surprised I haven't seen a head gasket leak sooner.
A couple months ago I overheated about 60 miles from home, I think then is when my head gasket problem initially started. That ordeal cost me about $250 for a new radiator.

 

[koda2000]

I didn't see the total mileage posted but isn't that awfully low for a FL vehicle that may have little to no rust if the only thing wrong is a ~ $1K head gasket job?

In a lot of areas in the country prices aren't as low as they seem to be in your location. Inputting my vehicle specs which are nothing special, typical XLT options and towing package results in a private party sale value of $3456.

I might be able to buy some beater that's filthy, dinged, body panel rust and in poor mechanical condition at an auction for $1500 but anywhere else I'd be looking at $2500 or more and that with higher mileage. Around here I can't buy anything in equal or better shape for $3K. Then again I place a lot of value on low 100K mileage on my engine given it's SOHC.

I'm going by what I see listed on Atlanta CL. I see trucks with engine and trans problems, which otherwise look good, posted for $500-$800 all the time. Most of them are SOHC V6's. They're too prone to timing chain and transmission failures for most people to want to bother with them, especially when they're getting to be 17 years old. I recently bought a 2000 V8, rust free, leather, reasonably clean, full power optioned XLT, with the towing pkg for $1500. It had a brand new set of tires and a brand new battery in it (that's worth at least $500 right there). All it needed was a handful of minor/inexpensive repairs to make it a fully functional, reliable vehicle. So what's a '98 SOHC worth in average condition that needs major repairs? Not much in my area of the country. If my '97 SOHC died tomorrow I'd scrap it (or part it out) in a heartbeat. I paid $1400 for it last year with a rebuilt engine and trans and it's in very good condition aesthetically. Maybe the OP loves his truck and doesn't mind putting the time and money in it, but he might be putting a $1000 or more in it only to need a $2000 transmission rebuild on a few months. I just think he should weigh his options.

In the Atlanta area, a relatively low mileage '98 SOHC in great condition isn't worth more than maybe $1800-$2000, and I wouldn't pay that much for one.

Here's just one example, I bet I could buy it for $1500, and it's a V8:
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/4832653971.html