Coolant leak on timing cover | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Coolant leak on timing cover

1996XLT-68

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Joined
March 28, 2002
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City, State
Charleston SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 XLT
I left my 96 at home Friday to drive my other car (73 Interceptor) to work and this morning I found a little half-dried puddle of coolant under the car, apparently dripping from 3 bolts on the oil pan. Coolant has been disappearing slowly for a long time, but I decided to track it down. I traced the leak down to the gasket mating between the block and the timing chain cover on the driver's side. It's a small weep and doesn't normally leave anything on the ground, but it's annoying and I guess potentially harmful. There's no indication that it is leaking into the timing chain area (nothing weird in the oil). I looked in my shop manual and it said that in order to remove the timing chain cover, the oil pan must be removed, and we all know what THAT means (remove the engine). Argh. Other than cranking down on the timing cover bolts, does anyone have any suggestions on what to do to stop the weep? I'm not about to pull the engine for this.

Thanks in advance,
Scott
 



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Check and make sure your thermostat gasket isn't leaking.
 






I'd check your water pump. When the water pump on my BII was leaking out the weap holes around the shaft, at first I thought it was coming out of the timing chain cover, but I kept looking and discovered it trickling slowly out of the water pump.
 






I haven't seen anything coming out of the water pump or the thermostat seal... And I look all the time. It always is wet on the gasket between the timing cover and the block on the driver's side. It only seems to leak profusely (1/2 cup) overnight on cold nights. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Scott
 






As there is no water sealed by the timing chain gasket it can't be leaking from there. Sounds like either the water pump is throwing the water on to the gasket or the water is dripping from higher up ie: the thermostat gasket. Certainly that is where I would start (it's cheap easy to get to and may cure the prob) then I would change the water pump. You may as well fit a new tstat while your at it. One of those two surely must cure the prob because the timing cover holds back oil not water. Hope this helps.
 






Howard,

Thanks for your reply. I beg to differ on your statement, I've had a number of engines apart (not a 4.0 tho) and every one has at least one water passage going from the water pump through the timing cover into the block. Lots have two (Pontiac 400). The most likely indicator of a failure in the timing cover/block gasket would indeed be coolant in the oil, but I think it is feasible that the leak could be external...
 






Howard - the 4.0 has two water passages through the timing cover each about 1-1 1/2" in diameter running from the block to the water pump.

Scott- since you notice the leak on a cold day I would bet the change in temp has loosened the bolts- try retorqueing them see what happens. If that doesnt work you can pull the cover and reseal it - I wouldnt pull the oil pan but make sure you get the gasket surfaces clean- wipe with lacquer thinner or alcohol to get them clean and add a drop of RTV at the pan/cover/block joint, and the crotches at the circle around the crank seal- replace the seal while its apart.
I think the cover will come off if you get the bolts off, and pull the cover up- be careful with the oil pan gasket at the bottom of the cover- the oil pan gasket is ONE piece - you are trying to reuse the portion under the timing cover, and if it is cut or broken then you will need to replace it or repair? it. So slow and caution are the words. The bottom of the timing cover is smooth, and the rubber oil pan gasket is set in a machined groove in the pan, so if you get the bolts out a thin blade between the timing cover and the gasket I think you can get it off with no damage. There is a plug of sealant at the ring around the crank seal, so look there for sticking gasket as you pull it up. Clean everything well before resealing it- chemically clean- not just a wipe with a shop towel. RTV at the block/cover/pan joint, and at the two corners of the crank seal ring.

have fun.

I havent done this - sorry, but I would work it as above to take care of the problem.

Good Luck
 






Steve,

Thanks for the tips. I'd venture to say that is probably the culprit as well. Especially since it's an aluminum to iron seal. I'll go price a new gasket. Hopefully it won't get too gross. I know I'll have to drain the cooling system but what about the oil?

Scott
 






I would- any coolant left in the passages will run down the front of the block and into the pan- the front of the oil pan will be exposed and open.

I would try to retighten the bolts before I tore it apart- like you said if it was really bad and leaking internally it would show up in the oil.
 






Ok so I'm not right. Thats cool. I should have guessed looking at the diagram that with the pump on top of the timing cover that the water went somewhere. Thanks guys at least I've learnt something. I agree with the try retightening them though it looks like quite a lot of work to take the cover off - pos the pump has to come off first? All the best anyway and I hope between us we get to the bottom of it.

PS it may help to remove the crankshaft oil seal from the cover so that you can lift it.:D
 






Howard, don't feel bad.

It does look like a major ***** though. Rad shroud, fan, pump, A/C mounts, all kinds of stuff has to come off.

The Haynes manual specifically states that in order to take the timing cover off, you must remove the oil pan. Removing the oil pan (according to this particular manual) necessitates removing the engine from the car. Sounds like a load of crapola to me. I can't believe that someone would design a car that you had to remove the engine to replace an oil pan gasket. Oh wait. Yes I do. My Interceptor is that way. Argh.

Anyway, after reading the manual for a while, I retorqued the two bolts on either side of the water pump bolts holding the cover down. I was going to go get a new thermostat when I realized I had managed to disable both my cars this morning (bad alternator bearings in the Jensen). Oh well. Wish me luck.

Best regards,
Scott
 






Thanks Scott

I feel much better now.:D :D

I hope all goes well with your fix.

Maybe tightening will hold long enough to get all the parts for both fixes.

All the best

Howard
 






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