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Cooling System Rebuild suggestions please

bruce119

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 14, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Holiday, Florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 Explorer
Well my radiator has developed a crack on the side and is weeping. So it’s time to be replaced also it tends to get a little hot (not much) wile stopped with A.C. on in hot Florida weather. Also I find it runs much better and stronger when it is cooler, after it gets to temp it looses a bit of power. So with that in mind and it’s a 93 X w/A.C. automatic odometer shows 71,000 not sure I think it's 171,000 but could be 271K. I plan to replace just about everything. Radiator, water pump. fan clutch, fan, thermostat (thinking 180) and any hoses that need it. Now Auto Zone has all the parts I need below is a list of parts.

Spectra Premium/Radiator
Torqflo/Fan Clutch
Dorman/Fan Blade
Duralast New/Water Pump
Hypertech/Thermostat – Performance
Duralast By Felpro/Thermostat Gasket

OK that’s about $285.00 worth of parts. What do you guys think, is there anything that is a must upgrade and if so where can I find it. I’m already tight on budget so keep that in mine.

I know I can probably add an electric fan afterwards if needed. There is a stock trany cooler on it now. Maybe that will be another topic.

Thanks everyone for your help
Bruce from Florida
 



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... odometer shows 71,000 not sure I think it's 171,000 but could be 271K. ...
Replace all the hoses, too.
The "getting hot at idle with AC on" problem sounds like the fan clutch is bad.
I would stay with the 192 deg thermostat.
If it has 171k (or especially 271k) I would change the timing gears, too.
Your timing may be retarded with a stretched timing chain causing loss of power.
Does it ever backfire when shutting down?
I removed the trans cooler line thru the radiator and replaced the stock cooler with 2 similar coolers from junkyard full-size Ford vans. The van coolers are twice the thickness creating 4x the cooling surface area of the stock cooler. On my old parts '92 I did the same thing, but the cooler was only 3x larger. It had 219k with the factory original trans when a freeze plug (left side front) blew and took out a head gasket.
 






Replace all the hoses, too.
The "getting hot at idle with AC on" problem sounds like the fan clutch is bad.
I would stay with the 192 deg thermostat.
If it has 171k (or especially 271k) I would change the timing gears, too.
Your timing may be retarded with a stretched timing chain causing loss of power.
Does it ever backfire when shutting down?
I removed the trans cooler line thru the radiator and replaced the stock cooler with 2 similar coolers from junkyard full-size Ford vans. The van coolers are twice the thickness creating 4x the cooling surface area of the stock cooler. On my old parts '92 I did the same thing, but the cooler was only 3x larger. It had 219k with the factory original trans when a freeze plug (left side front) blew and took out a head gasket.

Yea the hoses are on my list it would be foolish to do all that and not the hoses. I almost certain it's 175K, brake pedal not that worn. It runs fairly good no back fire or diesel after shut down.

Now as for the thermostat this is where I expected some feedback. There seems to be a little different opinions here. I know it is stock 192 but I do live in Florida and plan on running into the mountains of N.C. in the summer and maybe towing a small trailer. For me the the truck seems to run better wile it is cool.

So how or what would a cooler 185 thermostat hurt or effect. If it is slower to get heat to blow I rarely use the heat. Opinions please I got to get to this quick the leak is high on the rad. and slow so I can nurse it for now I don't go far maybe 10 miles a day.

Thanks
Bruce
 






I've run the 180 thermostat before on our 1st gen. It still went into closed loop but on the few days I drove it when it was cold out (freezing or slightly below) it took 30 minutes to get heat, if it ever got it. That is pretty much all 50mph + driving though (2 lane and freeway) so I'm sure that didn't help any.

~Mark
 






I've run the 180 thermostat before on our 1st gen. It still went into closed loop but on the few days I drove it when it was cold out (freezing or slightly below) it took 30 minutes to get heat, if it ever got it. That is pretty much all 50mph + driving though (2 lane and freeway) so I'm sure that didn't help any.

~Mark

I guess that would be annoying. There is going to be a couple days a year when I will probably want some heat.

What about this. I found a Motorcraft 190 part # 5255-05048404 for about $20.00 at PartsGeek.com Mite be a happy medium than the replacement at Napa & Auto Zone they are 198 then again there only about $5-6.00.

Thoughts and or suggestions.

Thanks
 






That should work fine. Its $16-ish at rockauto and $22 at amazon (if your a prime member, its free 2nd day shipping at Amazon).

If you use rockauto, don't forget to use the 5% discount code you can get from here (Rockauto has a discount code thread on here).

~Mark
 






Well I went ahead and ordered everything I think I need from Rock Auto. Below is the list of stuff I ordered. I used the 5% discount # mentioned it didn't show yet but I put a note in.

This is my first time ordering on line. I must admit I'm a little nervous. I will let you all know how it went when it comes in.


AIRTEX AW4060 Water Pump ... $ 39.79
FOUR SEASONS 36882 Radiator Fan Blade ... $ 25.79
HAYDEN 2793 Radiator Fan Clutch ... $ 48.79
MOTORCRAFT KM2003 (KM 2003) Radiator Lower Hose ... $ 14.82
MOTORCRAFT KM1824 (KM 1824) Radiator Upper Hose $... $ 19.32
MOTORCRAFT RT1161 Thermostat ... 16.04
MOTORCRAFT RS90 (RS 90) Radiator Cap ... $ 5.34
SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT CU1164 Radiator ... $ 98.99
Shipping Ground ... $ 32.28
Order Total ... $ 301.16
 






I have a 180. It's fine in FL.
 






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