Could KKM cause MAF/TB problems? | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Could KKM cause MAF/TB problems?

rvitek

Elite Explorer
Joined
March 12, 2002
Messages
651
Reaction score
3
City, State
Wauconda, IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 XLT 5.0
I just had my truck serviced (Dead Link Removed) recently and one of the services performed was to clean and recalibrate the MAF and TB. The service tech claimed that the KKM was the cause as it didn't perform as well as the stock air box setup.

Ok, if I re-oiled the KKM a lot, I could see oil getting on the MAF filament, no problem. But, I don't live in a dusty area (not even any major construction to boot!) and I only have about 15K miles on my KKM, so I haven't had the need to clean / re-oil.

I've complained about the KKM in the past (Dead Link Removed) but never took any action (I'm a pud!). I've also checked for leaks / vacuum leaks thinking that maybe if the KKM seal wasn't great, things were getting in there.

Oh well... I guess my question is, what do you think? Could my KKM have caused the problems with my MAF/TB?

Thanks!

Ry.
 






A properly installed and maintained hi-po air filter will not harm other intake components. Other than the reasons you already mentioned (leak or oil), there is no other way the filter can affect the other components. Added airflow alone is not going to hurt any intake system parts.
 






Like Alex said, if the hi-po is not torn or damaged in some way it isn't causing a problem.

Checklist:
1) Check the filter for physical damage.
2) Check the connection to the MAF. It needs to have a properly fitted and tight seal.
3) Oil it properly. Over oiling can be a problem. Use the oil treatment sparingly. I have seen many of these filters that have been over oiled. The excess oil works its way inside and eventually onto the MAS element.

Finally, If the filter is located inside the engine compartment and not gettting a good supply of cold air then you may experience problems. The air is heated up too much, especially after the engine has been running and the engine comparment heats up. The intake air temp. sensor may be reading air temps that are too high for the performance curve programmed inside the EEC. You need to get a good supply of cold air to the filter. A simple tube, say 3" dia cloths dryer vent, that routs air from the front to the air filter would probably do the trick. A more sophisticated system would box in the air filter to prevent it from sucking in air from the engine compartment.

Before I say anything about your service I'll check out the other posts

Two other considerations that come to mind....

1) The idle air bypass valve may need cleaning. (The 4.0 engine Idle bypass valve can be cleaned and re-used)


2) A BIG cause of engine performance problems is the O2 sensors ( I would expect that the service tech did this ). Check the wiring for ANY damage between the sensor and the first connector to the O2 harness. Also check that the O2 sensor is not physically damaged. If it is physically loose it is cracked inside the housing and must be replaced. (The check engine light should come on when this component fails, but I have had a bad O2 sensor without the check engine light coming on a Bronco and Taurus)

Guy
 






Some more infromation.... sorry for the length.
I looked at your other treads and have the following comments:

1) I seem to recall seeing a TSR regarding the need to re-flash the chips inside newer explorers. You might want to investigate this. It could be a continuous source of problems, especially with a custom chip.

2) Regarding the service performed.
The Mass Air Sensor can be cleaned only. It can not be re-calibrated. It is a sealed unit that sends out a variable voltage signal. This signal is read by the EEC. the only "re-calibration" is to re-flash the EEC with different performance curves based on the MAS values. Could he have re-flashed the EEC yet again? (Truth is this sounds like Ford Service bullshit to me)

3) The TB can be cleaned and calibrated. Calibration is an unlikely requirement on a vehicle as new as yours. It ios only a screw adjustment to make sure the butterfly closes properly.

If the TB was particularly dirty I would consider inspecting the the idle air bypass valve (also called Idle speed control, ISC). It may also need cleaning. If it got very dirty it may be letting additonal, unmetered, air by which will make your engine run lean (not a good thing for the 5.0 engine).

4) The mechanics comment about "very dirty MAF and TB". If this is true it is bacause of the way the KKM filter is installed and/or maintained.

As mentioned in my other comments:
A) DON'T over oil this filter. Only a light coat of oil is acceptable. Over Oiling will cause excessivly dirty MAF, TB, ISC, and EGR components. As well as everything else downstram of the filter.

B) Also, DON'T hold the oil spray can too close to the filter when you apply the oil coat (I think the recomended 3" distance is way TOO close, I hold at about 9+ inches). If you are too close it will force the oil through the filter to the inside surface.

C) If you use color to guage the amount of spray, then the color is light red or pink, not RED:mad: If you apply till it looks RED then you have way too much oil on the filter.

D) Make sure the oil has dried good before using. In humid climats like IL. give it twice as long or longer than KKM's recomended 20 minutes in dry Riverside CA. Wet oil will be sucked right into the plenum and contaminate the MAS, IAT and TB and other components.

As tempting as it may be DON'T use high pressure air to help dry the filter. If anything a blow dryer, on low setting, from the inside out might work.

2) You mentioned that there are no vacume leaks, but still make sure that there is a good seal where the filter attaches to the MAF. Also check the other connections along the intake tube to make sure they are tight and not leaking (Leaks in front of the TB will not show up in the vacume lines off the intake manifold). Any leakage between the MAF and the TB will seriously impact engine performance. The MAS sensor readings and the intake air temp. readings WILL be incorrect. The resultant air/fuel ratio determined in the EEC will be wrong.

3) I am very suspecious of this only because you have not shown how the KKM is installed. Did you remove the air box and is there a box around the KKM? Where is the cold air supply coming from? If there is not a box around the KKM, and a good fresh air supply (a real "cold air intake") then this could be the primary cause of the dirt and poor performance. I will try and explain....

If the filter is getting air from inside the engine compartment is it a) dirty, and b) HOT :fire:

The excessive dirt (contaminated air with heat, dirt and oil vapor) will add to the work the filter has to perform.

This heated air will affect the reading of both the MAS and the intake air temp. sensor (IAT). MOSTLY the intake air temperature sensor.

On pre explorer 5.0 engines the intake air temperature sensor is located in the #5 intake runner of the lower intake manifold. Just before air enters the #5 cylinder. The EEC unit has a set of temerature curves designed to account for the range of air temperature at this location to adjust Air/Fuel ratios.

Explorer 5.0 engines relocated this sensor. It is found on the air intake plenum (tube) just behind the MAF. Air temeratures at this location are VERY different, MUCH lower than on other 5.0 engines. The EEC is programmed for lower air temperatures. With an unprotected KKM air filter you are sucking in much warmer air over this temp. sensor (IAT). It is my belief that the air temp. curves embeded in the EEC won't properly account for the additional heat load in the intake air. It is exceeding the expected air temp. and running at the top, or above the air temperature curve in the EEC.

The intake air needs to be lowered to be in the expected air temperature ranges so that you get correct Air/Fuel ratio calculations from the EEC.

Air temperatures at this sensor and the MAS readings are critical to the EEC to calculate air/fuel ratio.

I suspect your solution is to get or build a real cold air intake. You could fabricate a box around the filter using cardboard, then coat it with fiberglass epoxy (you don't even need to use the fiberglass cloth). Use a single 3" diameter clthes dryer vent,or other such tubing to rout air from in front of the grill to the air filter.

Good luck.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top