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Cracked my engine block

keithisg

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 3, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Elizabeth City, North Carolina
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Ranger reg cab 4.0
I cracked my engine block last night when I went wheelin.

Basically my engine has been running pretty hot lately do to a leak radiator, I try to refil it about once a week. Anyways it was running on about A in NORMAL on the gauge and I went through a big puddle from a lake that leaked on to the trail. Well it bogged down and eventually cut off as I rolled out of the puddle. I was sure it hydrolocked so I waited a minute and started it up. It sounded LOUD like there was a hole in my exhaust header or something I kept driving it so I could get it out of there. Well once I got it out of there I came to a stop and it cut off. I let it cool off for awhile and then took off on the 10 mile ride home. Well about half way there it shut off slowly after bogging down and it basically overheated even though my temp gauge was in the normal range. I came back this morning and poured some water in the radiator and it comes flowing right back out through the bottom of my block right about where the freeze plugs are, its definitely not the freeze plugs I checked all of them.

Anyways just would love some opinions on what to do. I am either looking at taking out 3 grand to either buy a lifted f250 SAS or just do crazy stuff to the X like a V8 of some kind with a better tranny and transfercase behind it. I have access to a shop and most tools even a lift if I needed it.

Or should I just pull the engine, part out what I can, and take the rest to the scrap yard? I feel like I could squeeze about a 1000 out of it like that.
 



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another 4.0?

Sure this gets asked all the time but how involved is an engine swap? I could get an engine from a pick n pull an hour away. I know you just basically drain the fluids, disconnect and label everything and pull it out.

I mean everything else is good on it, transmission slips a bit but thats all.
 






Heck yeah, the 4.0 OHV is a great little engine. Dependable as all heck if a little love is given to it.

Swap is a weekend driveway project. drain the coolant, unbolt the A/C bracket and shove the pump to the side, disconnect the starter/trans, remove the torq convertor bolts, remove the ECM from the firewall, remove power/ground cables/straps, take off the shroud and fan, unbolt the exhaust manifolds, undo the engine mounts, hook a chain on the heads and yank it out.
 






swapping the same motor that belongs in the truck isnt too bad, ive only swapped motors in jeeps which have more room and are a little more simplistic, but yes pretty much drain fluids disconnect and label what needs to be and pull the motor. i think sticking with the 4.0 is your best bet, it will save you alot of time, money, and hassle. then you can also keep all the parts off the old motor for spares which is nice.
 






Yeah I just put 200 dollars into that motor :/

Anyone have a estimate if I parted it out. Assuming I sold everything but the body, motor, and frame because those would be going to scrapyard.

I know everyones always looking for different little pieces and what not.
 






Heck yeah, the 4.0 OHV is a great little engine. Dependable as all heck if a little love is given to it.

Swap is a weekend driveway project. drain the coolant, unbolt the A/C bracket and shove the pump to the side, disconnect the starter/trans, remove the torq convertor bolts, remove the ECM from the firewall, remove power/ground cables/straps, take off the shroud and fan, unbolt the exhaust manifolds, undo the engine mounts, hook a chain on the heads and yank it out.

Got that haynes manual so it may be of some help. Just hoping I can find an engine at the junkyard that isn't already worse off than mine :p
 






Yeah I just put 200 dollars into that motor :/

Anyone have a estimate if I parted it out. Assuming I sold everything but the body, motor, and frame because those would be going to scrapyard.

I know everyones always looking for different little pieces and what not.

well i figure you can get 200 for an 8.8, possibly more depending on the gears and if its a l/s, 200 for the good engine parts, and at least 500 for all the other odds and ends(suspension,interior,undercarriage), and then whatever you get for scrap metal. you just have to realize that it can take awhile to sell off all the parts so the thousand or so you would get you would never have all at once, and you'll also put in a lot of man hours to strip it down, and remember time=money, you would probably cost yourself more in time to rip it to shreds than you would in buying and swapping motors.
 












Hell man if you decide to part it out id love to take the rockers, dog legs, and possibly QP if yur scraping the body and its rust free. but honestly id just replace the engine.
 






Yeah I'm going to attempt to replace the engine. I have it about half way out, just need to get a pulley removal tool to get the power steering pump out.

I have a question about the A/C lines, how do I make sure they aren't pressurized before I disconnect them. I stuck a screwdriver in the high and low ports and let off some of the R134 hardly any was in there and my A/C barely worked anyways.

Also for the fuel pressure can I just not worry about that? like if I disconnect a line it will just shoot everywhere it won't just combust will it?
 






If you are only getting whisps off the A/C, then there isn't enough there to worry about. Really, unless you happen to have a freon recovery unit in the corner, there isn't much else to do about it.

Do the same thing to the fuel pressure port on the driver's side of the lower intake manifold. If you have a pressure gauge with the relief button, that's great. If you haven't run the fuel pump in a week, I don't think you will get much. I mean, don't stare right at it or anything, just be normal careful.
 






If you are only getting whisps off the A/C, then there isn't enough there to worry about. Really, unless you happen to have a freon recovery unit in the corner, there isn't much else to do about it.

Do the same thing to the fuel pressure port on the driver's side of the lower intake manifold. If you have a pressure gauge with the relief button, that's great. If you haven't run the fuel pump in a week, I don't think you will get much. I mean, don't stare right at it or anything, just be normal careful.

I was thinking that I couldn't do much about the A/C anyway, the enviroment was gunna have to take one for the team.

Thanks for the location on the fuel pressure port wasn't to sure I haven't messed with the fuel system at all. I'll try to wear some glasses or something tomorrow when I go to hoist it all out.
 






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