Crap!

[cmhaah06]

I noticed my engine temp gauge moving around a lot lately, never overheating just getting warmer than usual. I knew I had a small leak in the radiator, nothing major, just had to keep an eye on it. I checked my coolant level last night and learned it was ALOT lower than usual.

This makes me worry. I know the heads on these things like to crack/blow gaskets. I check the oil and..........its MILKY!!!!! @#$%

Now that I have had time at work to cool down, can anybody point me in the direction of a good rebuild kit/remanned engine or even something with a warranty? I know I can rebuild, but then I run into a time issue if it turns out the bearings/cylinders/piston rings/heads are shot.

Just need some ideas of where to start looking for rebuild kit or engine. Like I said, I just got done working the night shift (2100-0700hrs.) and would like some input from people who have done this recently or ever.

 

[cmhaah06]

Ok. I have been looking around for a deal to have the head gaskets replaced. I have not found anyone to do them for cheaper than 1600. That is way to much for the amount of work involved. I am going to do them myself.

What are people's opinions of the fel-pro gaskets? I was just looking at them on summit. I can get a set for 145, which includes gaskets for everything. I priced out buying them separately, that would run about 110. Found new head bolts for about 50.

Any tips that will help the rebuild go faster would be appreciated. I am going to have the heads checked for cracks before I reinstall them.

 

[cmhaah06]

Looks like its going to cost 100 to have the heads flow tested. Not bad I guess.

 

[1AJeremyD]

Sounds like this should be some fun for you. I have had good luck with fel-pro in the past. Is this going to be your first rebuild?

 

[cmhaah06]

First rebuild of this engine. I was a mechanic in the army and have done many rebuilds on my own vehicles. Just really don't have alot of time to get this done. Does sound like it'll be fun though. Haven't done a rebuild in a few years.

 

[cmhaah06]

I have a question for those of you more experienced with this engine/rebuild. I dont have the money to do a full, rods/pistons/bearings, rebuild. I was wondering though if I'm not experiencing rod knock or any other noises coming from the engine, do I need to do the full build? Am I just covering a bigger problem with a bandaid if I just replace the head gaskets for now? Like I said no knocks, never overheated and no other unusual noises coming from the engine.

 

[1AJeremyD]

It's going to be up to you. I have normally only done full rebuilds and never just a head gasket only. Are you going to try and do it with the engine still on the truck?

 

[cmhaah06]

I plan on leaving the engine in the truck. I was told if there is no knock, I haven't overheated the truck and I parked it as soon as I learned of the problem, chances are that i don't need to replace the bearings. I have only done full rebuilds myself, but, I just don't have the time and money to do that right now. The truck has no power loss, which is kind of weird, I always experienced some kind of change in the vehicle. The only real change that I have noticed is that the truck runs warmer. By warmer, I mean on the "L" or warmer, just not passed the most extreme normal point. If you understand what I mean?

 

[cmhaah06]

Hey, 1AJeremyD, I didn't even notice you were a vendor. Do you have a gasket set for the heads, intake, valve covers? If so, how much would that run?

 

[Anime]

You can certainly just do a full upper gasket replacement and save a ton of money. You'll be replacing the upper/lower intake along with the head gaskets. If you keep the exhaust manifolds attached to the heads (and there are no leaks already) you can save the hassle of manifold seperation/possiblity of snapping bolts and not need exhaust gaskets either.

It's worth noting that the stock 91-92 90TM heads are notoriously weak. Chances are good that one or both heads might have a crack, and is either all or part of the problem. New aftermarket heads are ~$200 ea with new hardware (valves, springs, retainers) or $120-150 bare. The aftermarket heads are a much thicker and stronger design. I mention this since it can save you some time down the road rather than discover the cracks and then have to wait for new heads to install. It's also of course not worth having the heads flow tested if they're cracked, so that $100 might be better spent towards new heads.

Having the heads off is also a great time to replace wear items such as the rockers/pushrods (which wear and cause the valvetrain clatter) and valve stem seals.

As for the gaskets, Fel-pro is ok, and their Perma-Dry Plus gaskets look better than most others. Some reports are that OE Ford gaskets are the best though, especially when it comes to head gaskets and the lower intake gasket. The Ford gaskets seem to be almost all metal with some rubber sealing surfaces, and the Fel-pros have a slightly different arrangement, with different metal and their Permadry sealant on the contact surface.

We do have lots of forum vendors for both OE Ford and aftermarket stuff, so you can ask around and compare prices and availability and see what you want to go with.

 

[cmhaah06]

Are these heads aluminum or cast?

 

[Anime]

Heads for the OHV 4.0L V6 are all cast iron.

Probably part of why they are much less expensive than a lot of others.

 

[cmhaah06]

Ok. I have been looking at different parts stores in the area for a decent price on a set of new or remanned heads. Every place I look wants almost 400 for one side. Does anyone on here know, shop or online,where I might be able to find a set (2) heads for less than 800.

 

[cmhaah06]

Ok. I found a company online called CHI, or cylinder head international. They have rebuilt/serviced heads for the 4.0 engine for 175 a piece. They dont request a upfront core charge. They request a complete head, no matter what condition its in, to be sent back to the compay. They send a prepaid postage label for UPS. I am going to call them and do a little more research, but I may go this route. Just some info for those of you that may be in a similar situation.

 

[cmhaah06]

I just sent that company a email. I will try to call them tomorrow.

 

[cmhaah06]

Oh %*&$!!!!

So I finally saved enough money to get the explorer back on the road. All I have to do is get the heads off. I put about 4 hours worth of work into it at this point. I have been working by myself and with all kinds of distractions.

I have the passenger side head off. While taking the exhaust manifold bolts off of the driver side, the 12 point GM Performance socket I was using decided to round off four points on the socket and at least three points on the bolt. I tried bolt extractors and a flashy tool my buddy had.

The bolt extractors just wont work in this application, plus they were not the sockets. They were like caps that you slide into a socket and try use that way. They would be good for around the house. Needless to say, those will be taken back. The flashy tool would have worked if the bolt head was not so rounded off.

I finally cut the head of the bolt off. I started taking the torx bolts off. I got one bolt loosened and twisted the points on the torx bit. Instead of trying to take any more bolts off I decided to call it quits for the night. This sucks 7 bolts away from having the heads into the shop. Oh well. Gonna go get two new torx bits and finish the job tomorrow.

 

[cmhaah06]

I was able to finish taking off the driver side cylinder head and get it to the machine shop. Diagnosis, CRACKED! The bill is not to bad, $440. So here goes it. I will be starting the rebuild on wednesday. Pray to the mechanic gods that the build goes as smooth as the tear down, LOL.

 

[pitbulldell]

got to take my heads off this weekend. what size are the torx bits for the head bolts. gonna make sure i got 2 or 3 of them in case i have the same problem you had.

 

[cmhaah06]

They are the T-55 size. I ended up buying two extra's when I finally got back to work on them, just in case.