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Cruise Control Issues

We then, as well as many others here, share a similar philosophy. Keep at it!
 



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So I have a working cruise now (it's been a couple of years), but I have to keep messing with it. :) I put in the original amplifier to test it out. It kink of works. When I press the set speed button, it accelerates 6 MPH and then cruises at the higher speed. Pretty wierd and unless you plan for this, you'd better be ready to press the brake. I guess I'll stick with my replacement amplifier.

I'm also going to try to fix the switch on the steering wheel. After disassembling the switch, there is a metal tab on the bottom of the off switch. It appears that this metal tab should be making contact until the off button is pressed which then pushes the tab downward. I'm guessing this will break the electrical contact and turn off the cruise. My tab was slightly bent. I tried to straighten it out by holding it against the switch body and putting a small screwdriver through a slot in the switch and pressing from the top of the tab. I think I have it pretty straight. Now I'll have to reinstall it to see if that fixes the switch.
 






Lets us know how your switch works. I recently spoke to a Ford Service Tech and he said they rarley get cars in there dealership service center with cruise control issues. Only problem is (I thought to myself), how many people would actually have their car serviced for something they probably don't use that often. Warranty I thought?

I have owned two 92 Ford Explorers and never had any problems with the cruise control system on either vehicle, and one of those Explorers I owned for 12 years.

d-1

rockstar said:
So I have a working cruise now (it's been a couple of years), but I have to keep messing with it. :) I put in the original amplifier to test it out. It kink of works. When I press the set speed button, it accelerates 6 MPH and then cruises at the higher speed. Pretty wierd and unless you plan for this, you'd better be ready to press the brake. I guess I'll stick with my replacement amplifier.

I'm also going to try to fix the switch on the steering wheel. After disassembling the switch, there is a metal tab on the bottom of the off switch. It appears that this metal tab should be making contact until the off button is pressed which then pushes the tab downward. I'm guessing this will break the electrical contact and turn off the cruise. My tab was slightly bent. I tried to straighten it out by holding it against the switch body and putting a small screwdriver through a slot in the switch and pressing from the top of the tab. I think I have it pretty straight. Now I'll have to reinstall it to see if that fixes the switch.
 






I never would have believed it!

Well, folks .. I just wanted to say thanks for the information on cruise controls ... I printed out the thread ... and started from the beginning .. and I would never have believed it ... replacing the third (middle) brake light bulb's solved the problem ... cruise control is now working ...
Great site !!! keep up the good work!

Thanks for the info!

Dave
 






So could anyone give me step by step on how to remove and install new(used) cruise control switches in a 1997 Explorer XLT?
 






Any ideas on why I have "occasional" cruise control? Sometimes on the first drive of the day it will not work,even if it's over 20 miles. But if I stop somewhere(even after 10 miles)shut it off and next time I take off it works fine?
When it is in use it never cuts out.
 






rockstar said:
I put in the original amplifier to test it out. It kink of works. When I press the set speed button, it accelerates 6 MPH and then cruises at the higher speed. Pretty wierd and unless you plan for this, you'd better be ready to press the brake. I guess I'll stick with my replacement amplifier.
This sounds suspciously similar to a problem I am having with my cruise control, except it is in the opposite direction. When I hit the SET SPEED button, my cruise coasts down about 4-5 MPH and then picks up and maintains that slower speed. From your description, I assume that putting in the replacement amplifier cures your problem?

Also, I think you said in an earlier post that you got your replacement off of eBay? Could you tell me what you searched for? I can't seem to get any hits when I try?

Thanks!

PJ
 






Where is the Cruise amplifier by the glove box/what does it look like? How do you get to it, is it the connector underneath the glove box? I have some similar issues... Cruise doesn't work, cruise on/off lights don't work. Seems electrical.

Thanks
 






Cruise amplifier anyone have a spare one ??? or HELP !!!

I have been trying to get my cruise to work on my 94 Limited. I have done the test to verify the servo is working and the vacuum dump switch. I have Ohm-ed the steering wheel switches and cleaned the clock springs and made sure all the bulbs are OK, I need help. I believe it is in the Amplifier, does anyone have one that is a spare or one that works and surges in speed just something so I can verify mine is bad and I will find one. I know I am getting 12 volts to my amplifier I found this out today with a VOM, no big deal the only other components I have not checked are the speed sensor and the switch on the master cylinder .....any help folks ????????

Thanks
Dwight
 






Cruise Parts

I have two spare amplifiers and two spare servos. I got them when i was troubleshooting my cruise which turned out to be the switches in the steering wheel. Make an offer, I'd like to see them go to good use.

Bob
 






Hi Bob

I made a deal to purchase an amplifier this morning , however I am determined to make my cruise work so I may buy this from you...I am going to make it work if I have to replace every component and rewire it as well. have any idea what you would want for all this ?? I tested my servo and it passed the Ford test...but I still wouldn't mind having spares............I am after all a guy and we are all pack rats:D

Dwight
 






I also have problems, but mine only works if I hold the button down, as soon as I let go it turns off.
 






Which Button

The "on" Button or the "Set" Button ??

Dwight
 






the set button, as soon as I let go of it, it loses speed like it has been turned off.
 






I also have the same problem with my cruise not working? 1994 Ltd. with 244,670 miles.. If i hit the on button and hit the set buttton I hear a grinding or some noise by my left foot or left rocker panel im quessing inside the left side of engine.

I did most of all the stuff in the tread like brake lighting working and all other lights are working ....the buttons themselfs have a push done feeling like the should work... oh yea when i hit the off button the noise goes away... So I need help on what i need to fix it. amplifiers or servos??
 






Sounds like the servo

There is a servo test to verify this, it requires that you have the servo disconnected at the plug under the hood and engine running, its not too difficult a test and would tell you. As far as I can tell the servo is the only moving part of the Cruise system.

Dwight
 






Here is the test

l Disconnect speed control servo from speed control amplifier.

l Key ON, engine running.

l Connect Circuit 144 (O/Y) lead of speed control servo to battery positive terminal.

l Connect Circuit 146 (W/PK) lead of speed control servo to ground.

l Momentarily touch Circuit 145 (GY/BK) lead of servo to ground.

l Disconnect Circuit 146 (W/PK) from ground.

l Does the servo throttle actuator arm pull in and the engine speed increase when Circuit 145 (GY/BK) is connected to ground, and does the speed control servo release when Circuit 146 (W/PK) is disconnected from ground?

Yes
Speed control servo checks OK.

instead of disconnecting the White/Pink wire from ground when the engine revs up press the brake pedal and it should disengage or drop back to normal idle...this test the vacuum dump valve at the pedal as well. This was a snap to do and ruled out my servo in minutes.

Dwight
 






My Cruise is working !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Amplifier I purchased here repaired the problem:thumbsup:

The test I posted above is copied directly from the ford factory service manual and completely eliminated the servo, so if you are having problems try running this test and as Glacier says "Stay at it" I did the clock springs and the steering wheel switches all these are easy to test...the amplifier is another matter...I could find no information on its internals, I did find a drawing to the plugs and did verify +12V going to it when the "On" button was pressed...so if you have cruise issues don't forget that little green box..........I have no idea how much Ford wants for a new one but several people offered to sell me one on here for 20 Bucks shipped and that is a steal any day.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Sincerely
Dwight P
 






I know this post is a bit old but I figure this is the best place to post my findings. Even though I rarely used the cruise when it did work I had some spare time today so figured I'd give it a shot. Thanks to Pdwight I was able to rule out the servo in a few minutes. The horn and all the brake lights worked so I saved checking the switches and clockspring till last. I had a gut feeling about the amplifier and I was right.

First thing I noticed about the amp after taking it out of it's housing was how simple all the components were. So aside from being shorted out it seems very unlikely to fail. Then I remembered having fixed an instrument cluster on a 99 Excursion due to the common poor solder point on the LPC. Well everything on top of the circuit board looking ok I turned to the bottom. I do a little novice electrical work as a hobby so first thing I noticed was the copper traces looked weak and could fairly easily be raised off the circuit board. After wiggling a few of the components from the top I found that was just what had happened allowing a trace to break near a solder point. Being one of the largest components and not sitting flush against the board I suspect years of vibration had taken it's toll.

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If you have any soldering skills this is certainly something to look into before going to a dealer or gambling on an ebay part. I would wager this scenario would be responsible for many failed amps. The time it took to inspect and make the repair was about equal to how long it takes to do the test drive and reorganize the glove box. Admittedly my solders did come out a bit shoddy. I only had rosin-core at the time and it doesn't mix well with silver-bearing which is typically used on PCB's.

Incidently, if anyone has tried messing with the potentiometer and forgot the default value, on mine it is 315 Ohms. I origionally thought adjusting that would fine tune the holding speed (ie; pressing the set button at 60mph but the cruise would hold a speed slightly higher or lower). I did some tests with this and this turned out not to be the case so best to leave it alone.

Also, I noticed these amps have a unconnected pin for the cruise Engage Light (203). Anyone know if us 1'st gen owners might be able to make use of it?

UPDATE

The fix worked for a day and failed again. This time a land pad (area of metal surrounding a hole) had raised off the board directly above the previous repair. If you look closely at the pic you may notice that particular land does not connect to any traces on the bottom of the board so repairing that was not as easy as the first. Turning my attention to the top of the board I noticed something unusual; there are pads there as well is some places. You can identify them by having silver surrounding the hole. As it turns out all of those locations are grounds. Luckily there just happened to be one under the component that needed repairing. After making a small jumper from that component lead to another ground it is working fine again.
 



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I see here people are having trouble setting cruise. I have the opposite. I can turn on, set, increase using the buttons. The problem I'm having is if I want to turn off the cruise control. I would push the "off" button are just tap the brakes. But I'm having trouble with the "off" button. If I push it, it would stay off if you push it. A few seconds after you push it the set cruise speed would go back to the set mark. Even tapping the "off" button a few times would finally stop it. This is starting to get worse.

>In a 1991
 






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