Cruise Control not working!

[Christifor]

96 Ford Explorer XLT.
Recently replaced all my interior/exterior bulbs to LED (must if you haven't done so), & now my cruise control doesn't work. I had an issue with the trailer wiring initially after conversion, but then removed the converter & exterior bulbs work fine now. So far I have checked the interior fuses. Today I'll open the hood & check brake fluid level. What should I do from there? I believe the converter was shorting the lights. Now the lights also use less power, & while having the LED flasher, I hope the system doesn't read as a bulb out & has deactivated the CC.

 

[swshawaii]

First place to check is the brake pressure (BPS) deactivation switch mounted on the master cylinder for leaking fluid.

Visually inspect the switch, MANY failures and possibly a fire hazard with a recall. Use VIN for active recalls in link below.

https://www.explorerforum.com/forum...on-s-wheel-doesnt-engage.457647/#post-3596798

Search Results for Query: brake pressure deactivation switch
https://www.explorerforum.com/forum.../&q=brake+pressure+deactivation+switch&o=date

 

[koda2000]

About a month after my local dealership did the cruise control recall on my '00 XLT I noticed that my CC stopped working (I use it daily). I checked under the hood and found my CC deactivation switch was wet with brake fluid and my master cylinder reservoir was a little low. I took it back to my dealer and convinced them to replace the deactivation switch. Afterwards the CC worked again.

 

[Christifor]

Alright, visually checked the switch & general reservoir area. Clean & full. Typed VIN into provided link, recall for SCDS. I'm assuming that's it?
Wish you could post pictures on this site from your phone.

 

[swshawaii]

Yes, SCDS = Speed Control Deactivation Switch. Just another of several terms used for this dangerous and fire starting part. If it's not a major inconvenience, make an appointment with your dealer to get the switch replaced under the recall. Even if everything appears OK visually, it may just fix your non functioning cruise control and it's FREE. Just don't let them talk you into unwanted services you need to pay for, after all dealerships make most of their profit on parts and service, not by selling cars or warranty and recall work. GL

 

[Christifor]

Yes, SCDS = Speed Control Deactivation Switch. Just another of several terms used for this dangerous and fire starting part. If it's not a major inconvenience, make an appointment with your dealer to get the switch replaced under the recall. Even if everything appears OK visually, it may just fix your non functioning cruise control and it's FREE. GL

Awesome. Thank you! I will keep you posted.

 

[MakeNShakeNBake]

Awesome. Thank you! I will keep you posted.

I just went through this on my 98 Explorer, the switch lasted 2 years but it had a lifetime warranty. Check your cab fuses for any blown fuses. For my model year, the Brake Light activation circuit was on the same circuit as the deactivation switch and the switch ended up grounding out, causing the fuse to be blown every time I connected a new one until I replaced it.

 

[Devan]

Awesome. Thank you! I will keep you posted.

Have you figured out whats going on with your cruise yet? Im having an issue with my cruise and Ive diagnosed the speed servo module, the abs module, the scds, and the bpp switch and I tested just about all the wiring in multiple ways that goes to those 4 things from the wiring point of origin and just about everything in between. And having LED tail light bulbs with the in line resistor has been on my mind as a possibility and I think Im having trouble with my trailer connector as well like u said but that could also be corrosion I gotta get in there with my power probe or volt meter and see whats what.

I know all my cruise control buttons are good because when I do the cruise control diagnostic self test the cruise light flashes after each button press in the sequence but after the last button press I get 2 flashes and the servo test does not begin. According to the ford workshop manual Flash code 2 means brake pedal position switch circuit failure. Possible failure points are circuitry, bpp, and speed control servo. Also I grabbed 2 SCDS switches and a speed control servo module out of the Junkyward tried both switches with no success. Tried my 2nd speed control servo module with no success and the cruise control self test still had the same result: flash code 2.

I also noticed you said you removed the converter, are you talking about a power converter or an in line resistor or somethin else? And i also noticed you said you had an LED flasher, are you talking about a replacement flasher box or an in line resistor or bulb or fast flash signal becuz you have led bulbs without a resistor(o and that will read as a bulb out btw) or somethin else? But since you have a 96 it has an amber turn signal that is separate from the brake light bulb right? So your turn signals shouldnt have anything to do with disabling cruise control, however led brake light bulbs might. If you end up putting regular brake light bulbs in (without in line restistors) to just test it, try clearing codes/resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery for 20-30 minutes if you dont have a code reader and then test and let me know how it works out, if you still have an issue try to do the cruise control diagnostic self test. If you dont know how just ask ill help ya out. Because Im curious as to what flash code you get from the cruise control self test.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Have you figured out whats going on with your cruise yet? Im having an issue with my cruise and Ive diagnosed the speed servo module, the abs module, the scds, and the bpp switch and I tested just about all the wiring in multiple ways that goes to those 4 things from the wiring point of origin and just about everything in between. And having LED tail light bulbs with the in line resistor has been on my mind as a possibility and I think Im having trouble with my trailer connector as well like u said but that could also be corrosion I gotta get in there with my power probe or volt meter and see whats what.

I know all my cruise control buttons are good because when I do the cruise control diagnostic self test the cruise light flashes after each button press in the sequence but after the last button press I get 2 flashes and the servo test does not begin. According to the ford workshop manual Flash code 2 means brake pedal position switch circuit failure. Possible failure points are circuitry, bpp, and speed control servo. Also I grabbed 2 SCDS switches and a speed control servo module out of the Junkyward tried both switches with no success. Tried my 2nd speed control servo module with no success and the cruise control self test still had the same result: flash code 2.

I also noticed you said you removed the converter, are you talking about a power converter or an in line resistor or somethin else? And i also noticed you said you had an LED flasher, are you talking about a replacement flasher box or an in line resistor or bulb or fast flash signal becuz you have led bulbs without a resistor(o and that will read as a bulb out btw) or somethin else? But since you have a 96 it has an amber turn signal that is separate from the brake light bulb right? So your turn signals shouldnt have anything to do with disabling cruise control, however led brake light bulbs might. If you end up putting regular brake light bulbs in (without in line restistors) to just test it, try clearing codes/resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery for 20-30 minutes if you dont have a code reader and then test and let me know how it works out, if you still have an issue try to do the cruise control diagnostic self test. If you dont know how just ask ill help ya out. Because Im curious as to what flash code you get from the cruise control self test.

I recently purchased a 2005.5 Jetta TDI, 5 speed and the cruise control does not work on it. When I turn the cruise control lever on, the light does not illuminate. I've only seen it turn on once and it worked for a few minutes. Does anyone have any ideas what may be causing it not to work? All of my brake lights work properly. I checked a couple of fuses but they seemed fine.