cruise control problem | Ford Explorer Forums

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cruise control problem

RedneckRambo

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July 1, 2009
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City, State
Sterling, Colorado
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer XLT
ok so im having trouble getting my cruise control to work. the fuse is fine and so is the VSS as far as i can tell. anyone got any ideas of where my problem could be at?
 



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That's kinda general.... but I'd check vacuum next.

yeah i got to lookin in my chiltons manual and decided that thats what im gonna do next
 






the cc module under the glove box fixed mine... 5 dollar part from a scrap yard, easy to change too
 






the cc module under the glove box fixed mine... 5 dollar part from a scrap yard, easy to change too

is that for a vacuum cc system or do both the electrical and vacuum cc system have the module?
 






The system has the electronic module above the glove box which controls the vacuum diaphragm under the hood, there is only one cc system used on the 1st gen IIRC. It is both electronic and vacuum controlled.

First check the vacuum dump switch, it releases the vacuum on the diaphragm. It's under the dash, mounted on the brake pedal assembly. There is a plastic plate on the side of the brake pedal lever that pushes the pin in the valve up. When the pedal is released, the plastic plate should be almost touching the housing of the valve, if not push the valve down so it is. You can check if it works by sucking on the end of the hose that is connected to it (it goes to the vacuum diaphragm). When the pedal is released you should not be able to suck any air through the hose, and when the pedal is pushed it should flow freely.

My vacuum dump valve was misadjusted and the module was bad too, so that is a possibility. They do seem to fail a lot. Check all the connections and the vacuum lines first though. Make sure the cable to the throttle isn't stuck either. There is also a check for the resistance of the buttons in the steering wheel as well.
 






The system has the electronic module above the glove box which controls the vacuum diaphragm under the hood, there is only one cc system used on the 1st gen IIRC. It is both electronic and vacuum controlled.

First check the vacuum dump switch, it releases the vacuum on the diaphragm. It's under the dash, mounted on the brake pedal assembly. There is a plastic plate on the side of the brake pedal lever that pushes the pin in the valve up. When the pedal is released, the plastic plate should be almost touching the housing of the valve, if not push the valve down so it is. You can check if it works by sucking on the end of the hose that is connected to it (it goes to the vacuum diaphragm). When the pedal is released you should not be able to suck any air through the hose, and when the pedal is pushed it should flow freely.

My vacuum dump valve was misadjusted and the module was bad too, so that is a possibility. They do seem to fail a lot. Check all the connections and the vacuum lines first though. Make sure the cable to the throttle isn't stuck either. There is also a check for the resistance of the buttons in the steering wheel as well.

well i tried the cruise this morning. good news it works. bad news it surges really bad. so i dont know what to check next. any ideas?
 






tried it again this afternoon and it wasnt surging but im thinkin it might be surging because my speedometer needle bounces, or would that even have anything to do with it?
 






Manual says that the needle bouncing is bad. Check the speedo cable, drive gear and the VSS.

You can put a dvm set to AC voltage on the VSS signal and watch it as you drive, it should change smoothly not jump up and down.

I think if you fix the speedo the speed control will work properly.
 






Manual says that the needle bouncing is bad. Check the speedo cable, drive gear and the VSS.

You can put a dvm set to AC voltage on the VSS signal and watch it as you drive, it should change smoothly not jump up and down.

I think if you fix the speedo the speed control will work properly.

ive already had the cable and the instrument cluster out the cable is good and so is the speedo. i used a drill to check the speedo. so im thinkin maybe its the speed gear in the transfer case.
 












Could be the gear, take it out and check.

how hard is it to take the gear out of the transfer case? and im not talking about the gear on the vss
 






I believe you need to remove the rear driveshaft, take out the bolts, and remove the yoke. Splitting the case is not required. I think the drive gear might be metal so the plastic gear on the VSS would be more likely to fail. Make sure the VSS spins freely as well.
 






I believe you need to remove the rear driveshaft, take out the bolts, and remove the yoke. Splitting the case is not required. I think the drive gear might be metal so the plastic gear on the VSS would be more likely to fail. Make sure the VSS spins freely as well.

the vss gear turns alright but if u spin it its not like it freewheels it turns really easily tho
 






How are the teeth on it? Do they look worn? You might be able to get a mirror, light, and third hand, and look into the hole where the VSS goes to inspect the gear inside the transfer case. You could try testing the cruise with the speedo cable disconnected to eliminate the possibility of it putting drag on the vss and gear.
 






the teeth look good. you can tell that there is a little wear on it. but its not missing any teeth or anything like that. i was planning on takin the vss out of the t-case and puttin my finger in there to try and feel if there was any missing teeth on that gear but using a mirror and a light seems easier. ill try that tomorrow.
 






You should chock the front wheels, jack up the rear and, and put it in neutral so that you can spin the driveshaft and see all the sides of the gear inside the case. Don't forget to release the parking brake (d'oh). You can also put the sensor in and spin the wheels to see if it looks to be spinning smoothly on the output end.
 






ok thanx ill do that tomorrow and let u know what i find
 






well i think its the gear in the t-case cuz my dad said that he could turn it when he put his finger in it and that it turn pretty freely.
 



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That gear inside the case should not move around freely, so that would seem to be a problem. There are some other members on here who have been far into the transfer case and would probably be able to tell you exactly how to take it apart, I've never done it. You might try posting in the Transmission, Transfer Case and Differential forum or wait a bit and see if anyone replies here.
 






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