CV pulled out...but this shaft came with it!?

[J-man67]

Just picked up an 03 Mountaineer AWD. Test drive went smooth, but 200 miles later, lots of binding then POPS from the front driver side. It was binding enough to the point where it would stop while turning sharply, then POPS! Figured it was a bad CV so ordered 2 new ones along with seals. Found time yesterday so got everything out. Driver cv was the one I felt popping, but not sure it's bad. Anyway pulled out the passenger and another shaft came out. Guessing this shouldn't of happened but can't find anything when searching nor could I find a fiche that shows this axle. There is a ring in a groove towards the end that slips into the diff. but not certain how to re install. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[4pullingGM]

It should install into the front diff just the same as a halfshaft would. Make sure the circlip (the goofy spring clip on the end) is ok and slide the shaft back in the differential. You may need to use a punch and a hammer to get the circlip to seat in the side gear. Don't put it back together if that clip doesn't hold the shaft in place.

 

[J-man67]

OK, great. Thanks. That is what I was thinking, but my neighbor swore it would not just snap back in and I had to take the diff apart. Actually, reading your post again, sounds like I should just drop the diff and open her up. Guess it can't hurt anything and its not my daily so more down-time isn't going to kill me. Now, my binding and loud POP/bang, does that sound like a CV issue? The passenger side was clicking when making turns and accelerating, but felt like it was the driver side binding and popping.

 

[Donystoy]

I have found it very difficult to pinpoint exactly where this type of noise is coming from in the front end. Mine had an intermittent clicking noise when turning mostly to the left. After inspection I replaced the left side axle since the outer boot was damaged and expelling grease. At the same time I replaced the hub/bearing as it was apart. After doing this I would still hear the occasional noise that continued to get worse. There was no wobble in the wheels at any time and I could only feel roughness in the right wheel bearing after I removed the wheel and brake caliper plus rotor and spun it by hand. Changed it and end of problems.

Generally CV joints will not make any noise when driving straight. Personally I would not touch the front diff unless it was definitely at fault.

 

[J-man67]

I hear that. I don't want to mess with it, but I also don't want to put everything back together only to have to tear it back down. It's not a tough process but, just low on free time these days. Picking the new shafts up now, think I'm going to drop the diff and give it a good look. Fluid looks clean from what leaked out when pulling the seals but you never know. I'm sure once the diff is out I'm going to want to pull the T. Case.

 

[Bobmbx]

OK, great. Thanks. That is what I was thinking, but my neighbor swore it would not just snap back in and I had to take the diff apart. Actually, reading your post again, sounds like I should just drop the diff and open her up. Guess it can't hurt anything and its not my daily so more down-time isn't going to kill me. Now, my binding and loud POP/bang, does that sound like a CV issue? The passenger side was clicking when making turns and accelerating, but felt like it was the driver side binding and popping.

It will pop in. Just line the splines up, then slide it in until it stops, then forcefully jiggle it until it pops in. Think about how it came out. It'll go in the same way.

 

[J-man67]

OK great! Thanks everyone. I just hope this binding/popping was from the CVs!!!

 

[Dave8338]

If the half shafts don't stop the pops / noise... it could be the viscus clutch pack in the transfer case, not letting things transfer torque in the AWD system.

 

[J-man67]

If the half shafts don't stop the pops / noise... it could be the viscus clutch pack in the transfer case, not letting things transfer torque in the AWD system.

I never made it out to the shop this evening. 2 little ones kept us busy. How can I check for viscous clutch pack problems? Any signs before breaking it open? I am pretty mechanical so I want to fix this myself. I am also a little short on time these days with work and family. I'd rather get it all figured out in one shot. When the wheel was turned it would literally stop if I didn't apply throttle when parking and such, but the "pop" would also sometimes occur when driving straight, after a turn when accelerating from a stop. Checked ball joints and such, all good there. It's something in the driveline and now that you mention that clutch pack I am starting to feel that's my problem. I've described my issue to a few buddies as it feels I am driving my truck on dry pavement in 4wd. Man, this new daily is taking truck mod money haha.

 

[Bobmbx]

Measure your tire height on all four tires. Mismatched tires can cause binding like that.

 

[J-man67]

Measure your tire height on all four tires. Mismatched tires can cause binding like that.

I wish it to be something so simple but all tires are brand new.

 

[Bobmbx]

I wish it to be something so simple but all tires are brand new.

Don't care how old they are. Measure'em.

 

[J-man67]

Worth a look I suppose. I'll give em a measure.

 

[J-man67]

Tires were OK. Got the output shaft back in. Opened the diff and that looks good. Replaced that, CVs, all ball joints, brakes and rotors, tre's, and have a new viscous coupler on the way. That should keep this baby happy for a little while! Thanks for all of the help!