Damn Door Ajar light

[Eric P]

Ok, I have read through almost everything here on it, I am having a strange issue.
I have lubed all the switches and checked what wires I could on my 03 XLT. Where I am stumped, i have checked continuity at the grey plug to the CSM for the wires going to the door locks, All are showing as working there, however only the drivers door will chime with the ignition on I replaced the CSM with one from a wrecking yard with the same result. even the keyless entry keypad works on both. What am I missing? Only thing I can think of is the wiring out of the CSM is damaged somewhere, But I dont know which of the three plugs to start with on the CSM, and where they go to check continuity.

UPDATE, Since I have been unable to find the issue, and to keep my Battery from draining, I removed the puddle light bulbs (you have to remove the mirrors) The middle light bulb in the rear map light, and pulled the console and snipped the BLK/ LT BLU wire at the plug for the map lights. You dont get a light to come on opening a door, but you do retain map lights this way.

Final update, after thinking about this a while, I decided to just pigtail all of them to a ground at the CSM. I could have left the drivers door to work, but since I hunt, I like to open my door and slip out without lights and chimes going off. Permanent fix, no more damn light. Picture of fix:

 

[TechGuru]

You just roll the dash dimmer down all the way until it clicks to disable the interior lights.

But it should not run down the battery anyway as there is a battery saver that shuts them off after 1 hour.

Upgrading them all to LED helps reduce the drain too.

I'm having this problem myself right now. Trying to determine which door is causing it.

 

[swshawaii]

@Eric P
Didn't watch it myself, but did you see FordTech's video?

 

[joney]

@Eric P
Didn't watch it myself, but did you see FordTech's video?

Brilliant! Same issue here, I just have the dimmer switch at off. But this should solve the issue, thanks!

 

[swshawaii]

^ Please keep us posted. If FTM's fix works, I'll give 30 minutes of my time and watch it. Good luck!

 

[Mr. Alligator]

I had one of these issues last year…. my fix was the door striker posts that needed to be readjusted. The doors opened and closed just fine, and the sensors/senders tested out fine. The GEM module was my prime suspect, but a local auto electric shop was confident the issue was the door sensors. Replaced the door sensors, but this did not resolve anything. Since the auto electric shop was so confident, I kept attacking issues starting at the door/sensors. Finally, readjusted the door striker posts, and the issue was resolved.

Maybe the door latches wear out, and eventually the door sensors get finicky.

This was most tedious and time consuming. In hindsight, I would have done the OP solution, but stubbornness got the best of me after the initial few hours,,,

Good luck, and let us know your solution(s).

 

[Eric P]

@Eric P
Didn't watch it myself, but did you see FordTech's video?

I did, very informative

 

[Eric P]

I had one of these issues last year…. my fix was the door striker posts that needed to be readjusted. The doors opened and closed just fine, and the sensors/senders tested out fine. The GEM module was my prime suspect, but a local auto electric shop was confident the issue was the door sensors. Replaced the door sensors, but this did not resolve anything. Since the auto electric shop was so confident, I kept attacking issues starting at the door/sensors. Finally, readjusted the door striker posts, and the issue was resolved.

Maybe the door latches wear out, and eventually the door sensors get finicky.

This was most tedious and time consuming. In hindsight, I would done the OP solution, but stubbornness got the best of me after the initial few hours,,,

Good luck, and let us know your solution(s).

I will have to look into this, I know my 'fix' is just 'field engineering' but for now it works

 

[Eric P]

You just roll the dash dimmer down all the way until it clicks to disable the interior lights.

But it should not run down the battery anyway as there is a battery saver that shuts them off after 1 hour.

Upgrading them all to LED helps reduce the drain too.

I'm having this problem myself right now. Trying to determine which door is causing it.

I just bought it and the battery is a 'reconditioned' It was probably weak to start with.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

I will have to look into this, I know my 'fix' is just 'field engineering' but for now it works

After chasing this issue for hours and a few days, and resolving it by adjusting the door striker posts, I believe that the latches wear out after twenty(+) years and the sensors do not make proper contact. There is not much tolerance in the door sensor/sender units.

Good luck with this.

 

[mountaineer2004]

After a long time with door ajar issues, when they were securely closed, I pigtailed the wires for the sensors (except driver door).
Problem, or no-problem, solved. Too much nonsense with today's vehicles.

 

[Eric P]

Thanks everyone for your insight.

After a long time with door ajar issues, when they were securely closed, I pigtailed the wires for the sensors (except driver door).
Problem, or no-problem, solved. Too much nonsense with today's vehicles.

This might end up as my fix as well, just do it at the plug into the CSM, to eliminate any corrosion issues between the door and there

 

[Eric P]

See update in original post

 

[TechGuru]

Won't work for me. I need them properly working for my aftermarket alarm system.

 

[Eric P]

Won't work for me. I need them properly working for my aftermarket alarm system.

Mine had an after market alarm, it was broken causing lots of electrical gremlins