How to: Dashcam x2 (BlackVue) Installation Insight

[GC_ST]

Just installed the Blackvue DR900S-2CH dashcam (front and rear) + B124X Battery in my 2020 Explorer ST and figured I would provide some insight to my approach and pics to help anyone needing to make similar mods.

Decisions

• Front camera placement - Top of windshield on passenger side with cables facing mirror; not enough room behind mirror to hide better
• Rear camera placement - Top of rear window, but between defrosting wires which lowers it an inch more insight. This was recommended to prevent damage when removing the camera's tape later, but i'm not confident it's necessary being I didn't have a problem before. Eh, it's a new vehicle, taking precautions anyway.
• External battery placement - In glove compartment; fits perfectly with access under the dash for cable runs. Tested under both front seats which have enough room, but I would need to make a mount to properly stabilize it and I didn't have time yet. Will probably go this path later though.
• Fuse for ignition power - Ford finally provides available fuses with different power profiles; Amp and

Procedure

1. Mounted front camera to right of center of windshield.
2. Ran both power and rear camera cables along top under headliner. I like to wrap some portions of the cables together every 6-10" with gaffers tape to provide stability and prevent rattle, and helps stick it in place and not fall out from bumps.
3. Split off the two cables at the front/right pillar:
   1. Ran the power cable down the pillar using the Blackvue plastic wedge tool.
      1. Fed power cable into top of glove compartment. To get more room to work behind the glove compartment, press in the tabs on either side of the inside of the glove compartment to release it to fall forward another few inches, which provides me enough room to work without fully removing it.
   2. Ran the rear camera cable across right side under headliner to the rear lift gate.
      1. In order to help run the rear camera cable into the lift gate's cable boot properly, I removed some paneling around the lift gate. The pics show were the clips are located to help you know where to pry safely.
         
         
         
         
         
         
         
      2. I partially removed the inside right panel with the speaker to get access into the headliner to run the cable to the rear access space of the boot.
         
         
         
         
         
         
         
      3. The boot can be removed by pressing in at least two adjacent points on the boot that are marked with parallel lines. I chose to use plastic wedge tools from my trim removal kit. I pried under the boot to press the tabs firmly enough to release, simultaneously was best, but possible to do one tab at a time if you can prevent it from slipping back in and locking again. Once loose, the boot can be pulled out some, and then repeat with the other boot.
         
         
         
         
      4. I ran the power cable above the headliner and into the space behind the boot and out the boot hole.
         
         
         
         
      5. Pinch the graffers tape on the inside of the boot (white plastic is around it) to find a spot that has the most space without cables where you will run the cable through. I used wire cutters to make some small snips in the tape and boot rubber behind it, large enough for the power cable to run through.
      6. To run the cable, i used two long (~20") twist ties, fed one through my new hole, worked it through the boot and out the other side, then connecting the other to that end where I want the cable to end up coming through. This helped me get a good grip when pulling the cable through my small hole and when it gets snagged in the boot.
         
         
         
         
      7. I laid the cable on the end of the twist tie lock and wrapped with electrical tape, making sure the end of the cable was wrapped to prevent snagging while it's pulled through the boot.
      8. I pulled it through, working it around snags and out the other end, removed the tape and knew I got through the hardest part! SWEETNESS!
      9. Ran the cable through the tail gate to the top/center, wrapped the cable with graffers tape where it exited to the window in order to protect it against the metal edges.
      10. Mounted the rear camera so that it wasn't on top of defrost wires. Connected the cable to camera.
      11. Installed boots until they snapped, headliner and panels.
4. Gained access to internal fuse box, under left side of steering column, by opening the fuse box door and removing the left trim that the door closes against, floor board and the bottom plastic trim that traverses from the left side to the right side of the driver side foot area (four bolts if I remember correctly).
5. Connected the fuse tap to the available (unused) Fuse #2 (20A) which tested for ignition power.
6. Ran the power cable above foot area, under steering column, and through center console. I used fish tape, but anything straight would work since Ford left us a lot of space and clear passage to the Promised Land.
7. Connected the ignition and camera power cables to the Blackvue B124X battery.
8. Tested, and voila!

 

[themishmosh]

Nice job.

I would also add that no matter the final position you choose for your cameras make sure the glass is an area that the wipers clean.

 

[Paul Anderegg]

Dumb question, but is the standard cable that ships with the Blackvue long enough to make it to the rear? About to start a 2022 Explorer install and need to make sure I don't need to buy a longer cable.

Paul

 

[peterk9]

That is a good question, not a dumb one by any means Paul.

Peter