I have a 98 Explorer XLT. Basic vehicle. 4 liter 6 SOHC. 5 speed auto. Lately, I have been having trouble starting from a stop at a traffic light. Occasionally, when I hit the gas, the engine will cut out and it has even died. At first, this only seemed to happen after an extended highway drive (70 mph). I would come off the ramp and stop at a light. When the light turned, hit the gas and the engine would cut out. Now it seems to happen more. Am I looking at a O2 sensor going out or what? I appreciate any help.
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Death off the line
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eXcali
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If you had a bad O2 it would just put the system into a generic state. You'd lose a little on your mileage and may run a little rough, but stalling out would be a bit extreme. I'd check your fuel system, and a quick cleaning of your MAF sensor couldn't hurt.
Chance942,
You asked about a single line setup. Afraid I don't know what that means. Also, how do I tell?
Marragtop,
How do I pull the codes if the CEL is out? Is there a key on/off sequence to get them?
eXcali,
Thanks for the words of wisdom regarding the O2 sensor. I hate changing those anyway.
I'll keep after it.
You asked about a single line setup. Afraid I don't know what that means. Also, how do I tell?
Marragtop,
How do I pull the codes if the CEL is out? Is there a key on/off sequence to get them?
eXcali,
Thanks for the words of wisdom regarding the O2 sensor. I hate changing those anyway.
I'll keep after it.
marragtop
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Since yours is a 98, you have OBDII which means you need a code reader. Most Autozones will pull the codes for free. If the codes don't reveal anything, I'd start by replacing the fuel filter. You need to determine if you problem if fuel delivery or spark (computer) related.
chance942
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Not true
On a "single line" you only have 1 fuel line going to the engine. The pressure regulator is in the tank itself. It makes pretty hard to diagnose fuel pump,regulator issues. Your pressure should be 60-65psi.
Look on the side of the left cyl head you'll see the fuel line(s) If there is only 1 then it is a single line system.
The scanners at autozone are really vague but it should display the saved codes even without the cel(MAL) light on. Unless you disconnected your battery . Plug in the scanner and start the truck. They may tell you it isn't necessary but do it anyway. With it running you should be able to get your stored codes.
How is the idle during these episodes? Temp,AC on, off have anything to do with it?
On a "single line" you only have 1 fuel line going to the engine. The pressure regulator is in the tank itself. It makes pretty hard to diagnose fuel pump,regulator issues. Your pressure should be 60-65psi.
Look on the side of the left cyl head you'll see the fuel line(s) If there is only 1 then it is a single line system.
The scanners at autozone are really vague but it should display the saved codes even without the cel(MAL) light on. Unless you disconnected your battery . Plug in the scanner and start the truck. They may tell you it isn't necessary but do it anyway. With it running you should be able to get your stored codes.
How is the idle during these episodes? Temp,AC on, off have anything to do with it?
I will do some checking on the fuel line situation.
I have not disconnected the battery.
Idle is fine.
temp is fine.
No difference whether ac is on or off.
Since I have no other hesitation type issues, the vehicle idles fine, accelerates fine (most of the time) and cruises fine at 70-75 mph, I didn't think my problem could be fuel delivery.
I am leaving now to go get a fuel filter. I have owned the vehicle about a year so I don't know if the filter has ever been changed.
Thanks for the help so far.
I have not disconnected the battery.
Idle is fine.
temp is fine.
No difference whether ac is on or off.
Since I have no other hesitation type issues, the vehicle idles fine, accelerates fine (most of the time) and cruises fine at 70-75 mph, I didn't think my problem could be fuel delivery.
I am leaving now to go get a fuel filter. I have owned the vehicle about a year so I don't know if the filter has ever been changed.
Thanks for the help so far.
chance942
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Filter
Well it doesn't sound like a fuel problem then. If you haven't changed it before let me give you some advice. Relieve the fuel pressure by disconnecting the inertia switch.Crank the engine and let it go till it dies. Disconnect the rear disconnect first. Let the thing hang over a can or something of the like and go under the hood and depress the shrader valve where you'd check the pressure. I don't know if you've done it before but if not it'll save you a gas bath when you disconnect the forward fitting.
They sell a cleaner called Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner,might try that as mentioned on here before. Other than that let's see if you have some stored codes.
Well it doesn't sound like a fuel problem then. If you haven't changed it before let me give you some advice. Relieve the fuel pressure by disconnecting the inertia switch.Crank the engine and let it go till it dies. Disconnect the rear disconnect first. Let the thing hang over a can or something of the like and go under the hood and depress the shrader valve where you'd check the pressure. I don't know if you've done it before but if not it'll save you a gas bath when you disconnect the forward fitting.
They sell a cleaner called Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner,might try that as mentioned on here before. Other than that let's see if you have some stored codes.
IZwack
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Your vehicle does not have a single line fuel system - it has two, just like mine. I still think its fuel delivery (weak pump?), cruising at 70 is not the same as starting off the line.
I replaced the filter and I am drying out after my fuel bath. I wish I had read the post before I went out.
I relieved the pressure using the shrader valve. So I didn't get sprayed or anything. But a fair amount of gas ran out when I disconnected the filter. No big deal.
Anyway, the filter has been changed. The old one seemed like it had been there a while but it was a Motorcraft and fuel flowed easily through it.
It runs fine now but it did before. The dying only happens occasionally. Later today I hope to do some electrical checks on the sensors. I am really hoping it is not the pump. That won't be a fun job.
Thanks for all the help.
I relieved the pressure using the shrader valve. So I didn't get sprayed or anything. But a fair amount of gas ran out when I disconnected the filter. No big deal.
Anyway, the filter has been changed. The old one seemed like it had been there a while but it was a Motorcraft and fuel flowed easily through it.
It runs fine now but it did before. The dying only happens occasionally. Later today I hope to do some electrical checks on the sensors. I am really hoping it is not the pump. That won't be a fun job.
Thanks for all the help.
chance942
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Well you're lucky to have the 2 line system. It makes diagnosing fuel regulator,pump issues a lot easier. Cruising at 70 is not the same as starting of the line,I second that. Changing the pump out isn't that bad if you get the tank as empty as possible.
I can understand that there are differences between cruising at 70 and accelerating at a stop light. I just wanted to provide as much info as I could and let everybody know what I was thinking and why.
I hope to work on some of the electrical diagnostics today. I'll keep you informed and thanks again for all the help.
I hope to work on some of the electrical diagnostics today. I'll keep you informed and thanks again for all the help.
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jseabolt
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Don't know if this helps but my father had a 92 BMW that misfired up until 3000 RPMS. It ran fine over 3000 rpms. The check engine light never came on. It turned out to be a bad oxygen sensor. Yet the fuel mileage never suffered.
I've tested the old one wire Bosch sensors before. I have no idea about Fords but if the system is working properly, if you connect a voltmeter to the wire while also connected to the computer it should flucuate between 0 and .9 volts. I'm not sure if this same method works on Ford Explorer fuel injection systems or not.
I've tested the old one wire Bosch sensors before. I have no idea about Fords but if the system is working properly, if you connect a voltmeter to the wire while also connected to the computer it should flucuate between 0 and .9 volts. I'm not sure if this same method works on Ford Explorer fuel injection systems or not.
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