Different front axles on 93?

[leedo]

My wife's 93 sport has a broken front axle shaft. It's sheared off at the u-joint knuckle right inside the front passenger wheel. I went to my local salvage yard to get a new shaft & spindle, but they are asking what month it was made. (before or after Sept. 93 I think) I'm assuming there were 2 different axles used?
The problem is that the sticker that's supposed to be on the door isn't there & I can't find that build date anywhere else.
Is there any other way to figure out which part I need?

 

[Maniak]

Are they trying to figure out if you have ABS? I can't remember which "part" has the tone ring when you have front abs (we have a 92, so we don't have it).

~Mark

 

[leedo]

They didn't ask about ABS, but I do have it. I was thinking if they would be different lengths? They didn't seem to know any more than the computer was telling them to ask for the build date.

 

[huntman58]

On the 93 the tone ring is part of the brake rotor hub

I believe the reason there asking is the 1st gen explorers used one of two axels they used Dana 28 and also a Dana 35.

The Dana 35 dose not use blind or master splines. So that is the deference and why they are asking. Now how to tell with out the door sticker that I can not tell you sorry.

The Spline info is from my Chilton manual.

 

[Maniak]

If it is for the Dana 35 vrs Dana 28, thats an easy answer.. The 1st gens have Dana 35's.. There are a rangers with the dana 28, but no Explorers.

~Mark

 

[leedo]

That what I was wondering if they switched to a different axle mid-year.
Well there must be some difference if they have a cut-off date. They say they have one of each axle, one is on the shelf & the other I'd have to pull myself.
Would there be any markings on the differential itself?
I was hoping there would be some info in the VIN #, but it doesn't look like from what I can find.

 

[Foxracin]

There is no difference in axles from 91-94. They all sue the same axle.

 

[leedo]

Ok, thanks for the info.
Now to see how hard it is to pull it apart.

 

[Foxracin]

Remove the caliper and sit to the side, take locking hub off, remoce c-clip and splined washer from outer axle, take spindle nuts loose and remove, remove rotor with wheel bearings, remove 5 nuts from spindle and pull the spindle off. Then just grab the axles and it will pull right out.

 

[Willard]

Easier said then done. Prepare to pull out the prying and beating and pulling tools for the spindle, unless it's been off recently it will be stuck pretty good.

 

[leedo]

That's it? There's nothing else holding the axle in?
I've done the brakes/bearings/rotors many times over the years due to either the design or my wife's driving habits. :
Need to get this done before the snow flies!

edit, well thanks for the buzz-kill Willard, it's got 236K on it & it's most likely never had the axle pulled.

 

[Willard]

It can be done, did I have about the same mileage and did mine about 8 or so months ago. I've pulled lots of rusted stuck parts from vehicles before, and it really wasn't too bad in comparison. Just make sure you plan out your time accordingly.

 

[Maniak]

Thats all there is for the driver side but it worse for the passenger side. Look at the c-clip eliminator made easy thread for info about a mod to make it easier mext time.

There is a clip in the diff holding the shaft in there.

~Mark

 

[Happy Jack]

Only difference is for abs. And that does not make a difference for the shafts. Just the spindle, steering knuckle, and hub/rotor assy.

There is a abs sensor retaining small machine screw on the back side of the knuckle that can cause trouble. If you have an impact driver you might try that. Takes a very small socket and they always round off for me and I end up drilling the head off and replacing with a new one covered in anti seeze.

The spindle can be difficult. But if you want to make it easy just use a slide hammer and this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00996398000P Many parts stores or rental places will loan or rent a slide hammer. If they don't have the spindle puller it is worth the $25 at Sears.

 

[huntman58]

On the Dana 28 and 35 the manual had it as they were used on the explorers not just the rangers and the part about the splines was under the front axel of the explorer. now it may very well be that they used one threw all the years but the book is wrong and if that’s the case then there book may have fallowed suit so to speak it would not be the first time I have heard of some thing like that . personally I have never had to deal with any explorer axels so I would trust the others judgment on that here so if they say one axel only I would believe them and if they say Dana 35 then that what it is.

 

[Happy Jack]

Thats all there is for the driver side but it worse for the passenger side. Look at the c-clip eliminator made easy thread for info about a mod to make it easier mext time.

There is a clip in the diff holding the shaft in there.

~Mark

But you don't have to do the inner. "If" the inner joint does not need to be replaced.

I would do um both. And as the third member has ta come out I'd replace the drivers side as well. An new seals and check the wheel bearings. Cause I know if I didn't I have ta pull it all back apart in a few weeks ta replace something. An it'd be a good time ta look at the ball joints.

And when I pull the passangers side shaft I mark the inner and outter so they go back the same way. With a new shaft just make sure the two u-joints are indexed properly.

 

[leedo]

Ughh, I don't know if I want to do all that.
Working on vehicles doesn't appeal to me as much as it used to.
I found this diagram;
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/d28.gif

#76 is what I need to replace. It looks like the inner end just goes into a boot? Do I need to release the clamp from the boot or is there something else holding it in?

 

[Maniak]

"In theory" #76 (outter shaft, passenger side) will slide off the inner shaft. You will need to remove the clamp AND cut the boot off to get a chance of getting that thing out of there.

The boot acts like a Chinese finger trap thing. You try to pull out the shaft the the boot will hold on tighter.

Also, that slip joint is usually very dry and slightly rusted. It takes a bit of work to knock the outer shaft off the inner shaft, but it can be done..

~Mark

 

[Happy Jack]

Ughh, I don't know if I want to do all that.
Working on vehicles doesn't appeal to me as much as it used to.
I found this diagram;
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/d28.gif

#76 is what I need to replace. It looks like the inner end just goes into a boot? Do I need to release the clamp from the boot or is there something else holding it in?

Yup! Thats what I do. Cut the clamp on the end of the boot and slip it off. You can use a pick like you do with hose or just try twisting it. Again I mark it with a wax crayon or white out to make sure it goes back the way it came out. When it goes back just use a stay strap to hold the boot on. I always pull the outer shaft off the inner.

 

[leedo]

Ok, thanks for all of the info. I guess now there's only one thing left to do, get my hands dirty & pull it apart!