Digital Dash Swap?

[NICE59FORDF100]

And you said, if i remember correctly, that one would loose the high beam, seat belt, and brake lights from below the stock explorer tach, correct? I havent really looked that well at the cougar cluster (theres that dirty phrase again, lol) but are those three lights down in the bottom of it? Hmmm.. i wonder if you can at least relocate the high beam and brake light to the stock location of the 4x4 high and low range lights on the explorer..I always thought those were redundant since you have the lights on the switch as well Just splice in your connectiongs on the flex board, move the the little displays down to the 4x4 lights location, and it done..

Just an idea :

 

[geoph1986]

It's a good idea to use this tool while soldering sensitive parts: http://www.jab-tech.com/Clip-On-Heatsink-for-soldering-sensitive-parts-pr-2992.html

Check Radio Shack. They should have them.

I have one of those, and it's a must on sensitive parts as you said.

And you said, if i remember correctly, that one would loose the high beam, seat belt, and brake lights from below the stock explorer tach, correct? I havent really looked that well at the cougar cluster (theres that dirty phrase again, lol) but are those three lights down in the bottom of it? Hmmm.. i wonder if you can at leat relocate the high beam and brake light to the stock location of the 4x4 high and low range lights on the explorer..I always though those were redundant since you have the lights up on the dash as well Just splice in your connectiongs on the flex board, move the the little displays down to the 4x4 lights location, and it done..

Just an idea :

Below the tach on the Explorer, the 4 indicators are, high beam, seat belt, anti-theft (which I will not be using) and brake. Since the "cougar cluster" message center display is in the way of these indicators, I plan to relocate them. I plan to put the brake and seat belt where the Explorer's turn signals are, and put the turn signals and high beam indicator centered above the center display of the "cougar cluster" (I will pilfer some of the Cougar's flexi-circuit for this). For connections I will use jumpers on the flexi-circuit to the indicators new location.

EDIT: You will also loose your shift indicator. I thought about it, but I don't know where I will be able to put one...so I will have none.

 

[NICE59FORDF100]

And geoph, I think I might have found an answer to your lighting problem....

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240166&highlight=indicator+lights

 

[NICE59FORDF100]

Oh, Ok i see what you are doing now Have you found a way to actually move the high beam symbol, keep it intact, and move it to the new locations?

And are there ANY indicator lights built into the lcd display itself? I didn't see any, but could be wrong.

OH OH, another question lol.

How do you bench test the cluster to make sure it actually powers on? I mean, I can take a wild gues (all power and run wires to 12V +, and all grounds to 12V - ) but this will not damage anything else?

Thanks!

 

[geoph1986]

And geoph, I think I might have found an answer to your lighting problem....

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240166&highlight=indicator+lights

I had actually read that thread a while back when I was planning an LED conversion. The 10 LED's I currently have installed on the light bar seem to provide enough even light for the displays. Based on the calculator I used in the link BrooklynBay posted, I will use a 470 ohm resistor for each LED on the light bar, and I probably won't be using the dimming feature for when the head/parking lights are on.

Oh, Ok i see what you are doing now Have you found a way to actually move the high beam symbol, keep it intact, and move it to the new locations?

And are there ANY indicator lights built into the lcd display itself? I didn't see any, but could be wrong.

OH OH, another question lol.

How do you bench test the cluster to make sure it actually powers on? I mean, I can take a wild gues (all power and run wires to 12V +, and all grounds to 12V - ) but this will not damage anything else?

Thanks!

There are no indicator lights built into the digi-cluster. Apparently the temp, oil, alt, and fuel symbols will blink on the lcd displays, but I don't know if something extra has to be connected for that.

For the relocated indicators, I'm trying to use the housing for the cougar's indicators (you'll see what I'm talking about when you take apart your cougar cluster), and I will just cut and paste the the indicators I need into their appropriate locations.

As far as powering up the cougar cluster (you're right, it sounds dirty...almost like a title to a Ron Jeremy "art film"), I haven't yet. I pulled mine from an insurance write off (accident), and I'm only assuming that it works. None of the electronics smell burnt either. When the time comes, I was going to do what you stated. All 12v+ to power, all 12v- to ground. I wouldn't expect it to do anything bad, you just won't have any signals to any of your gauges so they will read low/high.

 

[arco777]

I made a little progress; the brittle acrylic was making me but I ended up taping together all the Explorer stock gauge faces in stock layout, tracing them, and cutting a sheet of acrylic with a hi-speed cutter in my dremel. You can imagine going all the way around the stock gauges and all the way through .080 acrylic would take a while with a 1/4" diameter cutter! But it drops in perfectly and the stock bezel can cover it (without using the clear plastic faceplate even). I can mount the screens without cutting them to the backside, then mask and paint in the appropriate areas and it should all fit nicely. I can also retain the stock shift indicator. However with the circuit board and such I can't use the light bar, so I'm looking into alternative lighting. I do like the modularity (is that a word?) of the bar and the bulbs are just too tall (and too hot) to fit right behind the gauges, so I am thinking on soldering 12V white LEDs with internal resistors into the bulb sockets or to the contacts on the light bar.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

Awesome thread!

 

[NICE59FORDF100]

I made a little progress; the brittle acrylic was making me but I ended up taping together all the Explorer stock gauge faces in stock layout, tracing them, and cutting a sheet of acrylic with a hi-speed cutter in my dremel. You can imagine going all the way around the stock gauges and all the way through .080 acrylic would take a while with a 1/4" diameter cutter! But it drops in perfectly and the stock bezel can cover it (without using the clear plastic faceplate even). I can mount the screens without cutting them to the backside, then mask and paint in the appropriate areas and it should all fit nicely. I can also retain the stock shift indicator. However with the circuit board and such I can't use the light bar, so I'm looking into alternative lighting. I do like the modularity (is that a word?) of the bar and the bulbs are just too tall (and too hot) to fit right behind the gauges, so I am thinking on soldering 12V white LEDs with internal resistors into the bulb sockets or to the contacts on the light bar.

I think more pictures are in order!!

For the relocated indicators, I'm trying to use the housing for the cougar's indicators (you'll see what I'm talking about when you take apart your cougar cluster), and I will just cut and paste the the indicators I need into their appropriate locations.

OH, i see what you mean now! Will those line up properly with the dash panel? How do you plan on mounting and securing it to the explorer cluster housing?

Sorry I have so many questions, just trying to play catch up here with you folks lol

 

[geoph1986]

OH, i see what you mean now! Will those line up properly with the dash panel? How do you plan on mounting and securing it to the explorer cluster housing?

Since I worked my cluster to have the middle display centered, I will put the high beam indicator directly center and the turn signals slightly off to either side. I'm using the cougar indicator housing, and it has five "slots" for indicators. I will use the center (high beam), far right and far left (signals). For fastening, I was actually thinking that I may use JB weld, or even that epoxy putty stuff, like Billy Mayes used to advertise, only good. If those don't work, I may just make little angle brackets and fasten it with little nuts and bolts and use locktite.

As far as pictures go, I haven't made any real progress to take pics of. I would like to see what Arco is exactly talking about. I have an idea in my mind, but its probably different than what I'm picturing.

 

[NICE59FORDF100]

geoph is there anyway you could scan that cardboard template into the computer? If its not too much to ask for i would like to use it on mine and be able to print it off on a piece of paper.
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[geoph1986]

geoph is there anyway you could scan that cardboard template into the computer? If its not too much to ask for i would like to use it on mine and be able to print it off on a piece of paper.
Posted via Mobile Device

I can't at home because my canon printer/scanner is out of ink. For whatever reason, you can't scan without ink. I will try at work tomorrow, and if not maybe my sister will let me use hers.

A little update on my progress...very little. I got the outer part of my display sandwich cut, and was about 1/4 way cutting the inner part of the sandwich, when my dremel died. No warning or anything, it just stopped working. The motor turns freely and the brushes seem ok, so I've been letting it sit hoping that it may reset itself. Well it's been 2 1/2 hours and it's still not working. So I'm done for today. I have a friend that has a dremel, maybe I can borrow it from him.

 

[arco777]

Sorry to hear about your Dremel. Might have to tear it down to see what's up. The hobby shop I used to work at carried a whole selection of Dremel parts, not just bits but actual replacement parts for it. Sometimes the variable speed resistors go bad, sometimes bearings seize, sometimes it's as simple as debris sticks in the motor. Point being that you should be able to get yours working even if it requires ordering parts. If not... I have been using one of the lithium cordless models for about a month now; it is really handy and I don't miss my old Model 395 much!

I will post pictures of my progress when I make some more I don't have the money for the LEDs I want so completion will have to wait until next weekend. Looks like I'll be getting Wednesday off work and some half days this week so hopefully I can get back on track with this and finish all the mountings. I might have to beat Resident Evil 4 first though!

 

[geoph1986]

NICE59, my turn to contribute. As you put it, ask and you shall receive.
It's at 1:1 ratio so just save and print.
----IMAGE REMOVED----

EDIT:
NICE59, For whatever reason I can't get photobucket to put this full size. PM me your e-mail, and I will send it ASAP.

 

[NICE59FORDF100]

Thanks geoph for that! That will save me a lot of time!

I also thought maybe this could work for lighting up the lcd. Don't know how bright it would be, but it would be even, thats for sure....

http://cgi.ebay.com/A6-electroluminescent-panel-EL-back-light-sheet-foil_W0QQitemZ380161616881QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item588365ebf1

 

[geoph1986]

Thanks geoph for that! That will save me a lot of time!

I also thought maybe this could work for lighting up the lcd. Don't know how bright it would be, but it would be even, thats for sure....

http://cgi.ebay.com/A6-electroluminescent-panel-EL-back-light-sheet-foil_W0QQitemZ380161616881QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item588365ebf1

That's basically a computer screen lit up by CCFL's (Cold Cathcode Florescent Lamp). If my LED's don't work out, I'm going to get 2 of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350262533823&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
They're the bulbs that provide light for the panel. Plus, I have the voltage controller from the laptop, so power for them isn't a problem.

I was able to borrow my buddy's dremel type tool, so fabrication on the display screen sandwich can resume tomorrow. The cluster face is going to be three layers total, with an overall thickness of about 5/32"-3/16". All pieces will be cut the same size to start, and each layer will be trimmed as needed. The outer layer will be a solid piece. The display areas (including high beam and signals) will be taped off and then painted flat black, on the back side, once cluster face is assembled. The middle layer will have holes cut the exact size of the displays, and the exact location (this piece is not painted). The innermost piece will be the same as the first piece (this piece is also not painted. Once I get the sandwich fastened together, I will trim the inner pieces as needed.

 

[arco777]

This is my progress for today - It took forever but it's pretty much perfect - I don't ever want to have to do this again! On the very last trim with the Xacto to make the switch fit nicely it slipped and blood was soon spurting from my thumb. Electrical tape saved the day

 

[NICE59FORDF100]

oh what that looks awesome! I wish i didnt have oil pressure problems, other wise i would be working on mine! Hey, could you post any more pictures like from the side and back? Mine has the 4wd buttons there and am wondering how much clearance and room i would have. Thanks bud!
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[MrQ]

This is my progress for today - It took forever but it's pretty much perfect - I don't ever want to have to do this again! On the very last trim with the Xacto to make the switch fit nicely it slipped and blood was soon spurting from my thumb. Electrical tape saved the day

Trust me it won't be your last time. I do work on my truck, then come in to take a shower and leave blood everywhere. Can never figure out where I get all those cuts from.

Very factory look on that vent. Y'know with one thread you have turned into a star; 178 posts and 3500 views in less than a month.

 

[arco777]

Here you go - I also attached a picture of the circuit board for the buttons, if space is a big issue you could probably use your own push-buttons and wire them the contacts on the circuit board. I mounted my buttons to the left so I should still have room to install an analog trans temp gauge.

 

[arco777]

Trust me it won't be your last time. I do work on my truck, then come in to take a shower and leave blood everywhere. Can never figure out where I get all those cuts from.

Very factory look on that vent. Y'know with one thread you have turned into a star; 178 posts and 3500 views in less than a month.

Thanks for the nice comments. I don't mind cuts on myself, I just don't want to have to chop this particular vent up again because it took so long. Taping up my hand I was reminded of a time my dad and I were building a shed - I was steadying a piece of wood as he cut it with a Sawzall; the blade jumped from the wood and started sawing into my hand at the base of my thumb. It had been at full speed and even with his finger off the trigger it got several strokes in before the blade came to a stop. I duct taped it and kept working Scars are awesome.