Do the front and rear take the same shock absorber?

[2004mountaineers]

Do the front and rear take the same shock absorber?

I am thinking about following these videos to replace the shocks (not the springs, just shocks), while using the below spring-compressor.
front:

rear:

Amazon product ASIN B078X57CZL
2004 Mercury Mountaineer, 4liter, v6, 'awd'.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’m pretty certain they would use different shocks front and rear.

 

[Bazz270]

Not the same

 

[J_C]

The front and rear use two different part #s for their struts. They're called struts instead of shocks when they have the primary (usually only for that corner) suspension spring on them. See these examples on Rock Auto:

2004 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER 4.6L V8 Shock / Strut | Shop Now at RockAuto

Suspension Parts and More for Your 2004 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

The key to success with the longer strut springs on SUVs is you either need a long reach strut compressor tool, or for the typical loaner set of hand-held spring compressor tool you'd get as a loaner from an auto parts store, may need two sets of those to compress in two rounds to get them compressed enough.

You wrote "using the below spring compressor", which is a longer reach, wall mount style. Just that should do the trick, obviously since they show it got done in the video. Would I buy one of those compressors just to do 4 struts? No, I'd sooner use two pairs of the loaners, or pay some shop $40 to do them all for me.

I have no idea what the person in the video is thinking at 6:06 when they show pushing in and out on the strut to make the "oil and gas inside to activate". That is not at all needing to be done. I did not watch the entirety of the video to see if any other silliness happened.

You can also get loaded struts that already have a new spring on them, but they will often result in inferior ride quality, unless your original springs are worn out, evidenced by excessive sagging, and then many people would still prefer to replace with the original motorcraft part # "IF" it is still available.

 

[2004mountaineers]

Do the front and rear take the same shock absorber?

I am thinking about following these videos to replace the shocks (not the springs, just shocks), while using the below spring-compressor.
front:

rear:

Amazon product ASIN B078X57CZL
2004 Mercury Mountaineer, 4liter, v6, 'awd'.

The front and rear use two different part #s for their struts. They're called struts instead of shocks when they have the primary (usually only for that corner) suspension spring on them. See these examples on Rock Auto:

2004 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER 4.6L V8 Shock / Strut | Shop Now at RockAuto

Suspension Parts and More for Your 2004 MERCURY MOUNTAINEER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

The key to success with the longer strut springs on SUVs is you either need a long reach strut compressor tool, or for the typical loaner set of hand-held spring compressor tool you'd get as a loaner from an auto parts store, may need two sets of those to compress in two rounds to get them compressed enough.

You wrote "using the below spring compressor", which is a longer reach, wall mount style. Just that should do the trick, obviously since they show it got done in the video. Would I buy one of those compressors just to do 4 struts? No, I'd sooner use two pairs of the loaners, or pay some shop $40 to do them all for me.

I have no idea what the person in the video is thinking at 6:06 when they show pushing in and out on the strut to make the "oil and gas inside to activate". That is not at all needing to be done. I did not watch the entirety of the video to see if any other silliness happened.

You can also get loaded struts that already have a new spring on them, but they will often result in inferior ride quality, unless your original springs are worn out, evidenced by excessive sagging, and then many people would still prefer to replace with the original motorcraft part # "IF" it is still available.

Just double-checking: So, the below spring-compressor will work for front and rear on the 2004 Mercury Mountaineer of post #1 ?
Amazon product ASIN B078X57CZL

 

[Bazz270]

Similar design amazon tool (ive purchased the OEM Tools brand) worked on my 07 Explorer,both rear and front springs and a lot of japanese and european cars

 

[2004mountaineers]

Looks like I can get all four shocks replaced for $158. That includes a socket, a couple of wrenches and the spring-compressor. I just put the order in for those parts.

 

[Mbrooks420]

As mentioned above you don’t have any shocks, you have struts. With the same springs you’ll likely see little improvement.

4 struts for $160 probably means they are not great struts.

 

[J_C]

Just double-checking: So, the below spring-compressor will work for front and rear on the 2004 Mercury Mountaineer of post #1 ?
Amazon product ASIN B078X57CZL

I don't know if that is enough reach or if sturdy enough since some of the negative reviews mentioned that the bolt bent. They look about like the loaner tool at Advance Auto or Autozone so I'd try the loaner tool for free and if it doesn't work, then decide what to do next. Whichever of the screw tension type you use, you want to make sure the bolt threads are well greased. I would sooner call around and find out what shops want to just replace the strut on a built strut tower, explain to them what you need done, not full installation off and on the vehicle. It shouldn't take them a half hour to do that.

 

[Bazz270]

That one ive purchased 3 years ago.
Nothing bent or damaged (used on 5 cars approx
Amazon product ASIN B07S966BNT
Make sure both compressors are strongly the same lenght all the way or the bolt will be broken or bent (personal injury guaranteed ) always wear face and hands protection.

the ones who left negative feedbacks for 1.6k average 4.5 stars spring compressors are mostly far far away from shop tools and equipment knowledge

No one stupid enough to put fake 1.6k votes for 31 bucks item so the positive feedbacks are probably real

On the other hand,there is a tonnes of people with zero idea how to use equipment in right and safe manner lol

 

[J_C]

^ It also depends on what type of vehicle. A longer travel coil spring meant to handle higher loads, is not as easy to do as a shorter light duty coil on a car.

Personally, I wouldn't even bother trying with a pair of those. I'd want at least two pair, so the first set is not trying to handle the entire load of compression as much as its range allows, trying to get enough compression, then the second set can grab further apart coils that have sunken to within its reach range, once the first set is in place, so neither set needs as much reach and neither has to bear as much load as a single set. Sometimes only 3, instead of all 4 from both pairs are needed.

 

[LMHmedchem]

I have replaced all of my struts, but I used quick struts that include the spring.

To get the same or better quality as the original part it costs about $170 per wheel.

KYB SR4082 Strut-Plus Front ($161 +ship)
KYB SR4051 Strut-Plus Rear ($162 + ship)

or the OE part

MOTORCRAFT ASTL4 Front Strut Assembly ($178 +ship)
MOTORCRAFT ASTL6 Rear Strut Assembly ($162 +ship)

KYB makes excellent parts and are probably the best you can get other then a brand like Rancho. Moog also makes quick struts but they aren't listed on Rock Auto at the moment. If you could find it somewhere it would probably be less then KYB but is still a quality part.
This is much more expensive then just replacing the struts but my opinion on a 20 year old truck is that everything needs to be replaced. If you live where there is no road salt you might be ok but you won't thank yourself if you go to all the work and one of the coil springs breaks next week. If you add in the cost of extra tools and all the extra aggravation I think that replacing everything is worth considering.
Munroe makes quick struts and they run about $50-$80 each depending on some things. There are a ton of vehicles on the road riding on Munroe shocks so they would probably be ok. It's not my first choice but I would still do that instead of just replacing parts.

Start spraying with PB well ahead of the job. It's my practice to not fully start the job until I confirm that I can break loose all of the nuts and bolts in involved in the repair. If something won't move, I keep spraying until it does. No point in starting if you can't finish.

What is the condition of the lower bolt, nut, and nut retainer?

LMHmedchem

 

[Bazz270]

The biggest advantage in the complete quality strut sets is the fully equipped assembly including all new bushings ,spring mounts ,shock damper and a spring itself

 

[2004mountaineers]

As mentioned above you don’t have any shocks, you have struts. With the same springs you’ll likely see little improvement.

4 struts for $160 probably means they are not great struts.

I have replaced all of my struts, but I used quick struts that include the spring.

To get the same or better quality as the original part it costs about $170 per wheel.

KYB SR4082 Strut-Plus Front ($161 +ship)
KYB SR4051 Strut-Plus Rear ($162 + ship)

or the OE part

MOTORCRAFT ASTL4 Front Strut Assembly ($178 +ship)
MOTORCRAFT ASTL6 Rear Strut Assembly ($162 +ship)

KYB makes excellent parts and are probably the best you can get other then a brand like Rancho. Moog also makes quick struts but they aren't listed on Rock Auto at the moment. If you could find it somewhere it would probably be less then KYB but is still a quality part.
This is much more expensive then just replacing the struts but my opinion on a 20 year old truck is that everything needs to be replaced. If you live where there is no road salt you might be ok but you won't thank yourself if you go to all the work and one of the coil springs breaks next week. If you add in the cost of extra tools and all the extra aggravation I think that replacing everything is worth considering.
Munroe makes quick struts and they run about $50-$80 each depending on some things. There are a ton of vehicles on the road riding on Munroe shocks so they would probably be ok. It's not my first choice but I would still do that instead of just replacing parts.

Start spraying with PB well ahead of the job. It's my practice to not fully start the job until I confirm that I can break loose all of the nuts and bolts in involved in the repair. If something won't move, I keep spraying until it does. No point in starting if you can't finish.

What is the condition of the lower bolt, nut, and nut retainer?

LMHmedchem

I just applied Knocker-Loose to the larger bolts/nuts, while I wait for parts to arrive. I will have to get back to you on the condition of the lower bolt, nut, and nut-retainer.

 

[LMHmedchem]

I just applied Knocker-Loose to the larger bolts/nuts, while I wait for parts to arrive. I will have to get back to you on the condition of the lower bolt, nut, and nut-retainer.

Apply it every day until you are ready to start. The lower bolts and retainer nuts are very hard to find. One price I just saw was over $80 for one bolt. The size is M18-2.5x120mm. M18 is an odd size, which is typical of auto parts. Why use a common M20 when you can use an uncommon M18 that the owner can only buy from you?

Try to keep the nut and bolt intact if possible but be aware that many owners end up having to cut the lower bolt off. You might start looking around salvage yards in your area to see if you can get a used bolt and nut. If anyone knows where the part may be had for a reasonable price it would be good to know about that.

I believe that the torque on the lower nut is about 250, so you will need a heft torque wrench for that part.

For myself, I only had to remove the brake caliper and the sway bar link. Others have reported having to remove the knuckle but I didn't find that to be the case. In any event, spray the caliper bolts and sway bar link nut as well. It wouldn't hurt to spray the ball joints and outer tie rod end just in case. You can swing the sway bar out of the way once you have both links removed so I would jack and jack stands under the front crossmenber so you can remove both front wheels at the same time.

LMHmedchem

 

[2004mountaineers]

I have removed two of the three top-of-strut nuts. However, the last one is enshrouded in
the rubber damper. There is not enough vertical space to get a socket in there. And,
there is not any way, that I can see, to get a flat wrench on it.
Any advice?
Pictures below. (This is the left-rear.)

https://imgdump5.novarata.net/bl4jys.jpg

https://imgdump5.novarata.net/csanyh.jpg

https://imgdump5.novarata.net/cdm6f4.jpg

https://imgdump5.novarata.net/srol3h.jpg

 

[J_C]

In addition to soliciting replies here, I'd check some youtube videos for "Explorer strut" and find some within '02 to '05 model year. Here's one but I haven't had a chance to watch it.

 

[2004mountaineers]

What is the official name for that piece of rubber? If I can find one online like that in the same style as the one in the videos I posted, then I will have no trouble getting it off and on. And, in that case I will just destructively-remove the existing "rubber damper".

 

[2004mountaineers]

Well I tried four different length of 13mm sockets. None of them will fit. (None of them will allow a socket-wrench up in there.)
And, the stupid-design has the rubber completely covering up the nut....

 

[Mbrooks420]

How much space do you need? Get a cheap one and grind it to fit?