Do you have to clear the codes/memory after replacing the Idle air control valve.

[sehaare]

I've got the car up and running again. I hadn't expected to put any more money into it anymore, but my daughter needed it to get to work, so I caved in and spent more money.

Since I started spending, I might as well fix a few more things.

The car idles low at time and has repeatedly died when coming to a stop. From reading post here, I suspect it is a dirty/sticking/old Idle air control valve. I'm going to attempt to clean it first. But I expect that I'll end up replacing it. I looked at some videos for other fords and some of them showed them clearing out the codes or suggested disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. Is that necessary or will the system automatically learn how it needs to adjust with an Idle air control valve that works better?

I expect it will run like crap immediately after the replacement until it learns.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Should run fine right after. If doing a reset it never takes 30 minutes for the caps to drain.

 

[sehaare]

It looks like the motorcraft one for the SOHC is no longer available.

When I replace sensors that you can't tell if the new one is working correctly without hooking up a computer, I tend to spend more $$ and buy the OEM part. Nothing worse than putting in a new part that is defective and having it make you think that something else is the issue.

 

[XLTrunner]

For what it's worth, I replaced my IAC a couple years ago and went to Rockauto for it. At the time, they were listing a Hitachi as the OEM supplier (Motorcraft does not make these). It has worked flawlessly. However, I just checked and they no longer list the Hitachi as available. Wished I'd kept the receipt with part number.

 

[fast_dave]

^^^^^^

Hitachi was the OEM Manufacturer of the IAC Valve.

Any you currently find are "New Old Stock / Shelf Stock" because they don't manufacture them any more, so they usually go for a premium when they can be found.

 

[sehaare]

^^^^^^

Hitachi was the OEM Manufacturer of the IAC Valve.

Any you currently find are "New Old Stock / Shelf Stock" because they don't manufacture them any more, so they usually go for a premium when they can be found.

Just about every time I post here, I am blown away by the knowledge.

I'm also on a VW forum to keep my 81 rabbit convertible running.

As far as I'm concern, being able to see/learn how to fix things is just about the best use of the internet. (along with being able to order unobtainable parts in two days).

I think that I saw some hitachi ones during my search, now that I know I'll go looking for them again.

Thanks

 

[allmyEXes]

@sehaare
Is this what you are looking for?
1998 Ford SOHC 4.0 IAC

 

[CDW6212R]

Clean your IAC carefully first, they are usually very reliable and they either fail completely, or they are dirty and the moving part moves roughly because of the buildup. You can use brake cleaner or carb cleaner, engine degreaser etc, the only key is to not let the harsh chemicals get onto the rubber plunger that inside on the control end. That rubber is the main fragile part. I like an old toothbrush to scrub inside the IAC, doing that every 2-5 years is usually good to maintain them well.

There is no need to pull a battery cable, it has nothing to learn anew, the idle control circuit assumes the IAC is there and working perfectly. It does not adapt to an IAC, it adjusts it as needed to obtain the idle it is programmed for.

 

[sehaare]

Just about every time I post here, I am blown away by the knowledge.

I'm also on a VW forum to keep my 81 rabbit convertible running.

As far as I'm concern, being able to see/learn how to fix things is just about the best use of the internet. (along with being able to order unobtainable parts in two days).

I think that I saw some hitachi ones during my search, now that I know I'll go looking for them again.

Thanks

for what it is worth looks like for the 1998 ford explorer V6 SOHC (vin E) the part number is Hitachi ABV0052. Now looking for the best deal.