Does anyone know how to read ABS codes without a tool?

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update!

 

[zims666]

So I thought I would update this thread. I decided to roll the dice and gamble the $10 for the rear speed sensor instead of paying $100 to read the codes. That did the trick! No more ABS light and this morning I felt my ABS kick in during the rain.

i know where to look for it, but what is the easiest way to reach the rear abs speed sensor?
do you have to jack the truck up?
is it easy to see once underneath?
thanks in advance.

 

[daffy]

The answer depends on your physical size, and dexterity

I jacked up the drivers rear wheel about 4" off the ground, just to give myself some room (always use jackstands!).

It's pretty easy to see, look where the driveshaft gets to the diff, then look up, and slightly to the right, there'll be a wire there, that's it. One bolt, 15mm (I think), and a o-ring seal that can be a little difficult to pull, and your done.

 

[zims666]

The answer depends on your physical size, and dexterity

I jacked up the drivers rear wheel about 4" off the ground, just to give myself some room (always use jackstands!).

It's pretty easy to see, look where the driveshaft gets to the diff, then look up, and slightly to the right, there'll be a wire there, that's it. One bolt, 15mm (I think), and a o-ring seal that can be a little difficult to pull, and your done.

ill check it out. thanks!

 

[Steeda90GT]

i know where to look for it, but what is the easiest way to reach the rear abs speed sensor?
do you have to jack the truck up?
is it easy to see once underneath?
thanks in advance.

Like stated, depends on how big you are. I managed to get underneath without jacking up the vehicle. Once underneath you can barely see the sensor. I pretty much had to feel for the bolt head to put my socket on. It might take a minute or two of "feeling" around. The sensor sits on top of the differential. Have a flat head screwdriver with you too because the o-ring seal can be a ***** to remove.

 

[96eb96]

This little known no nonsense item will let your do ABS diagnostics, read GEM codes (and tons more) for under $150. Get an old ebay laptop and you will have more power than the dealer has. I've tried every scan tool and NOTHING even comes close. The autozone tool is a joke.

Be sure to get both ISO AND PWM to read ABS. This is an important option. There is a no questions asked guarantee.

There is a bit of a learning curve but it is certainly worth it. I'm surprised it is not much more expensive. You can read out exotic quantities like Ford Specific PID real time (BARO, transmission status, 600 more quantities!!!), mode 6 data(misfire counts), MPG to the thousanth place or even calculated horsepower!!!!

Just one use of this item will more than pay for itself!

http://obd-2.com/

 

[sidneyhop]

i just replaced my ABS speed sensor. Didnt jack my truck up but missed its location the first time around. I located it with a little hand mirror and a flashlight. Its on the drivers side of the diff...not directly in the middle. Another "oo7" way to do it is use your cell phone camera

 

[zims666]

Rear ABS sensor is probably most common cause of ABS light. You can check it in a few minutes with an ohm meter - infinite or no resistance means its bad. Its located on top of the rear differential and attached with 1 bolt.

Cheap and easy fix if its bad. Got mine at NAPA for 10 bucks.

my ABS light was on for three years. i bought the new sensor at advance auto parts ($12), jacked up the rear of the truck, replaced the old one. light is now off. thanks for the info...

 

[Upright]

My ABS light came on yesterday while out running errands with the family. I did a search of the forum last night and found this thread. Thanks to the suggestions here, I replaced the rear ABS sensor and out went the light!

Thanks for this thread and thanks for this forum!

 

[osduck5]

I just replaced the rear sensor on mine in hopes the ABS light would go out but as my luck has it, the light is still on. Codes are C1198 and C1101

 

[cjones101812]

C1198 - LF ISO Valve Coil Circuit Failure





C1101 - Intermittent valve failure.

Check for loose connections on Pins 1 and 4 (O/Y) wire at 8-pin hydraulic unit connector. if not loose.

check resistance of unit at connector

Pin 1, Pin 4 to Pin 3 = 3-6 Ohms RA Outlet
Pin 1, Pin 4 to Pin 5 = 5-8 Ohms FR Inlet
Pin 1, Pin 4 to Pin 6 = 3-6 Ohms FR Outlet
Pin 1, Pin 4 to Pin 7 = 5-8 Ohms LF Inlet
Pin 1, Pin 4 to Pin 8 = 3-6 Ohms LF Outlet

lightly tap on the unit to see if any readings change.

 

[osduck5]

C1198 - LF ISO Valve Coil Circuit Failure





C1101 - Intermittent valve failure.

Check for loose connections on Pins 1 and 4 (O/Y) wire at 8-pin hydraulic unit connector. if not loose.

check resistance of unit at connector

Pin 1, Pin 4 to Pin 3 = 3-6 Ohms RA Outlet
Pin 1, Pin 4 to Pin 5 = 5-8 Ohms FR Inlet
Pin 1, Pin 4 to Pin 6 = 3-6 Ohms FR Outlet
Pin 1, Pin 4 to Pin 7 = 5-8 Ohms LF Inlet
Pin 1, Pin 4 to Pin 8 = 3-6 Ohms LF Outlet

lightly tap on the unit to see if any readings change.

Thanks for the info. I will check these and see what I get.
Osduck5

 

[91CheapExp]

ABS light always on

This thread was very helpful! My ABS light was on for a year. I set the rear axle on jackstands so the tahrs were 4" off the ground, then put the floor jack under the trailer hitch to raise the body on the suspension. 3/8 wrench to get the bolt out, then I could get a strong screwdriver under the mounting tab and it popped right out. Replace with Advance unit for $16. BWD Engine Management Technology of Taiwan. It has Nascar labels on the box!

So, the old sensor was covered with fine metal. I cleaned it up and put it in to test. Still didn't work, but when I took it out, more filings. Has anybody else seen this? Some metal is normal for 110,000 miles, but this surprised me. I'd like to hear what others experienced before I rush out to take off the rear end cover.

 

[mikepier]

Greeting, first time poster.
I have the same problem. My ABS light only goes on after driving through snow/slush and salt in the winter time. After a couple of days it goes out. Same thing happened last year. Is it possible the slush and salt is getting into one of the connectors then after a couple of days it dries up or gets flushed out with rain or car wash?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Clean the sensors.

 

[mikepier]

Welcome to this forum! Clean the sensors.

Can you tell me what is the best way to do that? If you are referring to the front sensors are they easy to remove?

 

[gijoecam]

Greeting, first time poster.
I have the same problem. My ABS light only goes on after driving through snow/slush and salt in the winter time. After a couple of days it goes out. Same thing happened last year. Is it possible the slush and salt is getting into one of the connectors then after a couple of days it dries up or gets flushed out with rain or car wash?

Exactly. That's where I'd put my money...

Welcome to this forum! Clean the sensors.

If it was the sensors, it would more than likely occur all the time, not just when it's slushy and wet outside. The sensors are not going to get better or worse depending on how wet it is outside.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The slush & salt work their way in between the sensor, and the metal part that looks like a gear.

 

[gijoecam]

The slush & salt work their way in between the sensor, and the metal part that looks like a gear.

Are you talking about in between the sensor and the tone ring? On a second-gen, the front tone ring is securely sealed inside the front hub assembly, and on the rear, the tone ring is attached to the carrier inside the differential housing... If slush or salt are getting into either of those, ABS is the least of your worries.

 

[96eb96]

Exactly. That's where I'd put my money...



If it was the sensors, it would more than likely occur all the time, not just when it's slushy and wet outside. The sensors are not going to get better or worse depending on how wet it is outside.

I had a sensor on a Lincoln (same exact sensor except for length) that would show fault only if wiggled a certain way. So going over certain bumps, temperature etc would make the light go on.

If you do an ohms test on a sensor, be sure to wiggle it especially where the wire meets the sensor and connector.