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Door Keypad Problem

Rofocowboy84

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 27, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Royersford, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'04 XLT
I searched the forum and couldn't find any thread that matched my question, so I apologize if this has been answered before.

The keypad on my door has stopped working. It seems to be just the 9/0 button, because every other button I press makes it light up. The problem is that the 9/0 button is used three times in my code, and of course to lock the truck. Anybody know what could be up, or have a fix for me? It's annoying because I'm used to locking my keys inside with it running when I stop at a convenience store or something. And of course it's a great save when I forget my keys in my car, lol.
 



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My Sport Trac has the same problem, only the 9/0 button doesn't light up.
My code does not include those numbers.
I got the code from the card given to me, and also from a module behind the passenger air bag, both are the same!!!

Any Ideas how to check or test the 9/0 Button.
 






I searched the forum and couldn't find any thread that matched my question, so I apologize if this has been answered before.

The keypad on my door has stopped working. It seems to be just the 9/0 button, because every other button I press makes it light up. The problem is that the 9/0 button is used three times in my code, and of course to lock the truck. Anybody know what could be up, or have a fix for me? It's annoying because I'm used to locking my keys inside with it running when I stop at a convenience store or something. And of course it's a great save when I forget my keys in my car, lol.

Easiest thing to do is probably replace it. Im sure a local junk yard can supply one. Ive seen it on the 2nd gens in the junk yards here... Its a plug and play thing. should not be too hard to remove and install a new one.
 






I am having the same problem with my 2002 key pad. If the only fix is to replace, then I will do that. However, are there any other suggestions that can be done to the existing keypad?

Side note: This occured at the same time one of my door ajar switches malfunctioned.
 






I am having the same problem with my 2002 key pad. If the only fix is to replace, then I will do that. However, are there any other suggestions that can be done to the existing keypad?

Side note: This occured at the same time one of my door ajar switches malfunctioned.

yeah I think the actual key pad is a non-serviceable part. A new or junk yard replacement is your best bet.
 






sounds like its the pad also outside chance maybe the wiring. I'm not sure if there are only two wires coming out of the connector or 5 of the pad?
If it only 2 then id guess the pad, as it would use short to ground with resisters to determine which button was pressed.

5 wires, then a wire maybe cut in the door somewhere.

A stealer could hook up a meter and tell when a button is pushed, . . .
 






Well i dont know how much will be for shipping this part!!

We could exchange it so we can determine if it is good or bad!!

suggestions!!??

I drive a 2001 sport trac
 






I haven't had mine apart (it still works, and I'd like to keep it that way), but I've had remote controls apart. I've found when remotes become hard to use, when you have to push hard on the buttons, it's dirty contacts. If you take them apart, you'll find a circuit board with bare copper (or tinned copper) contacts behind the rubber buttons. The button itself has a conductive material on the back to short the contacts when it's pushed.

I'm pretty sure our door keypads are the same type of construction. If you can open the module without breaking it, the contacts can be cleaned with dish soap and water. Let it dry and it should work like new. :thumbsup:

Some people think water destroys electronics, but I've been working in electronic manufacturing for 14 years so I can tell you water doesn't hurt electronics or circuit boards. There are exceptions like LCDs, some switches and relays that aren't sealed, but nothing you're going to find on the keypad. Just make sure everything is dry before you put any power to it. It's the electricity that kills wet electronics.
 






How would one go about taking these off?
 






Put the window down, then pull the window gasket away from the trim piece. Start at the top corner and pull it straight in toward the center of the window. It comes out really easy. There are a few screws behind the gasket holding the trim in. I only pulled my gasket out far enough to get to the screws.

Going back in was the tricky part. It has to lay flat against the door frame and slide under the rubber seal across the bottom of the window. It's easiest to put a piece of string behind the seal and put the trim back in over it. Pull the string out from both ends and it will pull the seal out from under the trim piece.
 






So I pulled the door panel off to find the connection for the keypad was corroded. One of the pins was completely broken off and another was in bad shape. I am trying to by pass these two connection points and now the keypad is dead. Not sure if the keypad shorted (looks like some sparking occurred inside the plug) and now the whole thing needs to be replace or not. Does anyone know if and where a fuse is located for the keypad? I can not seem to find one in the manual or online.

I guess for now, I will just disconnect it so it does not short anymore. I was driving today and the locks started going nuts, I think the 7/8 and 9/0 where shorting together.
 






Well I think you are lucky if only need to replace the pad!!!

I opened mine too but my pad looks like new, also checked continuity from the door connector to the module behind my passenger airbag there are 6 pins 5 are connected to the module and one is not, I think this is the common wire the is connected to every button on the pad.

If the pad is not expensive I suggest to replace it, if you have the time and know hot to solder fix it, paper clips are good to replace broken pins, I have used them before. but you will need to brake the plastic covering the pins, or saw it.

Anyone have an idea how much the module is?? I mean the one that is located behind the airbag not the button pad!!!?
 






Well I think you are lucky if only need to replace the pad!!!

I opened mine too but my pad looks like new, also checked continuity from the door connector to the module behind my passenger airbag there are 6 pins 5 are connected to the module and one is not, I think this is the common wire the is connected to every button on the pad.

If the pad is not expensive I suggest to replace it, if you have the time and know hot to solder fix it, paper clips are good to replace broken pins, I have used them before. but you will need to brake the plastic covering the pins, or saw it.

Anyone have an idea how much the module is?? I mean the one that is located behind the airbag not the button pad!!!?

I got a replacement one for $35 shipped on ebay, it's actually the whole panel. I figured that was the best mix of easy and cheap....
 






Hello does anyone has the electrical diagram for the harneess, I did replaced both the buttons and the module and I have the same simpthom!!

I can reprogram the remotes (FOB) but can not unlock or lock using the door buttons. with the old and new parts the button 9/0 doesnt light up the dome light.

I am thinking will be a harneess problem. or fuses but not seem to have one dor this.

Any ideas???
 






Alright gurus, replaced the keypad, still doesn't work. I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes, nothing. Thought maybe the multiple time's I've disconnected the battery in the past it would have reset it to the factory code, so I tried that, still nothing. Any ideas? I'm hoping it's not one of the wires in the boot, that would be a pain....

Also, does anyone know the best way to put the water barrier back on? Lol...
 






get the volt/ohm meter out, . . trace those wires, i have no idea whats up in that boot, seems to be a very weak spot for some reason. good luck.

vapor barrier, that foam thing?, i have used in the past latex caulk, rubber cement, tape, 3M sells a spray on glue too.
 






get the volt/ohm meter out, . . trace those wires, i have no idea whats up in that boot, seems to be a very weak spot for some reason. good luck.

vapor barrier, that foam thing?, i have used in the past latex caulk, rubber cement, tape, 3M sells a spray on glue too.

I'll have to find the voltmeter. And as far as that foam thing, I just stuck it back on and put the door panel back on. Out of sight, out of mind, lol...

But yeah, I've kinda just given up on the keypad for now. I was figuring on just an easy swap of the old one with the replacement one, nothing much more than that, and already this morning I've taken the whole door paneling off (including braking the little tab in the back of the switch panel, so now I have to glue that back on), speaker out, and vapor barrier/water barrier/foam thingy 3/4 of the way off, and then everything back on. Now I'm thinking of just driving the mile to 7/11, getting a pack of cigs (and superglue....GD plastic...), and then going to bed....
 






I was having the simptom of 9/0 button.

After replacing Button pad and Module from a good sportrac parts. I decided to find out what the problem was, I practically disassemble the whole Dash following the wiring harness until I found where the line was cut, I soldered it and now I have it working again.

If anybody needs help with the wiring I became a pro hehehehe.

I drive a 2001 sport trac.
 






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