Door lock mechanism detached from door frame

[kingswell]

My passenger side door lock mechanism on my 96 XLT seems to have detached from the door frame. This was noticed because I can manually lock the door, but the auto lock (whether from key fob or door button) will make the sound of locking the door, but nothing happens. It will unlock fine.

I removed the door panel and was able to reach in and grab the lock mechanism. When I manually hold it up to the door frame where it's supposed to attach, it seems to be working fine. Looks like the washer came off and it became disconnected.

Here are some pics.

Zoom of spot where it's supposed to be attached; hand inside holding it up.

Same pic zoomed out

Driver-side door where same connection occurs, with washer:

So, I have a pretty good idea of the issue.. What I'm interested in is where to go from here. Would I be able to somehow extract the screw/pin in the locking mechanism, get a new washer, and replace? If so, anything special to consider to extract it? Would I be able/need to go to dealer to get replacement parts? Any help appreciated. Thanks.

 

[dogfriend]

On my truck, the door lock solenoid was originally riveted to the door frame. When my solenoid failed, I had to drill out the rivet to detach it from the door frame. The manual says to reattach the new solenoid with another rivet, but I did not have a rivet tool that was big enough, so I substituted a button head cap screw and a nylon locknut in place of the rivet. It has been working well for several years now.

I'm thinking that you could do the same - take the solenoid out by removing it from the linkage, remove the old rivet/bolt from it, get a button head cap screw and nylon locknut from a hardware store. I think I used a #8, but it might have been #10, you can get one of each and use whatever fits best. The reason you want a button head is because the head will be low enough so there is clearance between the door frame and body when the door is closed.

 

[kingswell]

thanks for the idea.

realized my issue is the exact same as this one: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142749
and looks like some people are having similar issues:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153028

right now working on just how to get that rivet out. since the actuator isn't attached to anything, I'm having to hold it in place to get to it through the hole in the door frame, and don't know whether it's that or the drill bit I'm using, but not making any real progress. sounds like it's a real pain to have to take it out completely, so trying to avoid that.

 

[dogfriend]

Yep its kinda a PITA to get it out, but I think you may have to in order to be able to hold it still. To get it out, you need to disconnect the electrical connector and disengage the rod that goes to the inside door handle and lockrod. The hardest part is that you can't see what youre doing, but have to feel around to find the stuff. :

 

[dogfriend]

Here is what mine looks like. Sorry about the quality of the pic, the auto focus didn't know what I wanted.

 

[lockednatrunk]

I had to do the exact same thing to my driver's door. I removed the old rivet and put a small nut and bolt through it. Works like a dream.

 

[kingswell]

Thanks for the help. Was a BEAR to get the rivet out -- I couldn't quite figure out how to completely remove the lock actuator hook from where it was attached without bending the hook, so just disconnected the electric connection and pulled the mechanism over closer to one of the holes in the door frame. Took quite a while to get that thing out, but finally did. Was able to pick up a good-sized nut and bolt and attach it with that. Couldn't get my paws in there to hold the nut, so I scotch-taped it to the metal casing of the lock mechanism & just prayed it would be there when I put the bolt though. Almost cried with tears of joy (or maybe just shock) when that worked..